| s/v Nine of Cups South Atlantic Crossing Tristan da Cunha 14 Nov - 21 Dec 2006 |
We had "met" Andy Repetto, the island's
resident HAM, via email from Uruguay and
then chatted with him daily en route to
Tristan. At right, Andy and his wife, Lorraine,
offered us hospitality beyond our wildest
dreams. An island tour, lunch at their home,
Tristan lobsters, taters, mutton, beef and
cider...and most of all, their friendship.
resident HAM, via email from Uruguay and
then chatted with him daily en route to
Tristan. At right, Andy and his wife, Lorraine,
offered us hospitality beyond our wildest
dreams. An island tour, lunch at their home,
Tristan lobsters, taters, mutton, beef and
cider...and most of all, their friendship.
The lobster boat comes in to the little
harbor. This boat collects lobsters from all
the other boats out and returns with the
current day's catch for processing at the
factory.
harbor. This boat collects lobsters from all
the other boats out and returns with the
current day's catch for processing at the
factory.
Land ho! Tristan da Cunha in sight!
The anchorage was deep (75') and open to
the wind and swells. For two days we
managed nicely, but the wind and weather
changed on day 3 and we made a hurried
departure.
the wind and swells. For two days we
managed nicely, but the wind and weather
changed on day 3 and we made a hurried
departure.
A view from the deck of Nine of Cups of "the
Settlement" as Edinburgh of the Seven Seas is called.
The town is tiny with one main paved road and a
surprisingly large number of vehicles.
Settlement" as Edinburgh of the Seven Seas is called.
The town is tiny with one main paved road and a
surprisingly large number of vehicles.
Above, the "patches" are the vegetable
growing areas which the islanders maintain.
They are neatly sectioned off by walls of
volcanic rock. Tristan "taters" are a staple
crop and we enjoyed them all the way to
Cape Town.
growing areas which the islanders maintain.
They are neatly sectioned off by walls of
volcanic rock. Tristan "taters" are a staple
crop and we enjoyed them all the way to
Cape Town.
The setting is pastoral and tranquil. Sheep
graze and people walk along well worn
paths to their homes and little businesses
in town. Everyone says hello. The main
grazing and garden areas are located a
few kilometers out of town. Flowers were
in bloom and the islanders were all
rejoicing over a good year of lobstering
which was coming to a close.
graze and people walk along well worn
paths to their homes and little businesses
in town. Everyone says hello. The main
grazing and garden areas are located a
few kilometers out of town. Flowers were
in bloom and the islanders were all
rejoicing over a good year of lobstering
which was coming to a close.
The decision to cross the Atlantic was made when
we were in Ushuaia and feeling tired of being so cold.
Once we headed north up the Argentine coast, it
seemed foolish to slog back down and then go west
so we changed our minds as cruisers often do and
after a relaxing five months touring Argentina,
Paraguay and Uruguay and working on Nine of
Cups, we headed out on 14 November for Cape
Town, South Africa.
This would be our longest passage to date, nearly
4,000 nautical miles. Our goal was to arrive in Cape
Town for Christmas.
we were in Ushuaia and feeling tired of being so cold.
Once we headed north up the Argentine coast, it
seemed foolish to slog back down and then go west
so we changed our minds as cruisers often do and
after a relaxing five months touring Argentina,
Paraguay and Uruguay and working on Nine of
Cups, we headed out on 14 November for Cape
Town, South Africa.
This would be our longest passage to date, nearly
4,000 nautical miles. Our goal was to arrive in Cape
Town for Christmas.
David splices a jib furling line which
chafed through during the trip.
chafed through during the trip.
We witnessed many outstanding South
Atlantic sunsets like the one above.
Those are wandering albatross soaring
by, looking for dinner.
Atlantic sunsets like the one above.
Those are wandering albatross soaring
by, looking for dinner.
The most comfortable bunk in the boat
during a passage is one of the saloon
settees. We take turns, 3 hours on/off.
Jelly slept with whomever was off.
during a passage is one of the saloon
settees. We take turns, 3 hours on/off.
Jelly slept with whomever was off.
All in all, it was a pleasant passage. After our usual
initial bout of seasickness, we were up and about and
enjoying our life at sea. There was always something to
do or to fix, we read, talked and planned. It's easy to
lose track of day and date so we concocted lots of
celebrations to differentiate the days. Some were
easy...Marcie's birthday and Thanksgiving. Others took
some pondering...GMT Day (the day we set our clocks
to GMT time), Prime Meridian Day, 1,000 Miles Under
the Keel, 2,000 Miles Under the Keel, 1,000 Miles
Left to Cape Town, Tristan da Cunha Day. There was
no dearth of celebrations aboard. The biggest thrill of
the passage, however, was arriving at Tristan da Cunha
and having the opportunity to go ashore.
initial bout of seasickness, we were up and about and
enjoying our life at sea. There was always something to
do or to fix, we read, talked and planned. It's easy to
lose track of day and date so we concocted lots of
celebrations to differentiate the days. Some were
easy...Marcie's birthday and Thanksgiving. Others took
some pondering...GMT Day (the day we set our clocks
to GMT time), Prime Meridian Day, 1,000 Miles Under
the Keel, 2,000 Miles Under the Keel, 1,000 Miles
Left to Cape Town, Tristan da Cunha Day. There was
no dearth of celebrations aboard. The biggest thrill of
the passage, however, was arriving at Tristan da Cunha
and having the opportunity to go ashore.
Tristan da Cunha, discovered by Portugese explorer, Tristan da Cunhao in
1506, is according to the Guiness Book of Records, THE REMOTEST
inhabited island in the world. The anchorage at Edinburgh on the north
coast is an open roadstead and weather-dependent. After 2500 miles of
sailing, we were fortunate enough to have light southerly breezes when we
arrived and had the chance to go ashore for two consecutive days.
The island's population is about 300 people...all hardy and independent
souls. The islanders primary source of income is the harvest of Tristan
lobsters and fish for export. They grow most of their own produce in an
area on the east coast called "the patches". They raise their own livestock,
mostly sheep and cattle and chickens. They seem keenly aware of nature's
fine balance and limit the number of livestock to amount of grazing areas
available. They fish, but make sure the lobsters are replenishing.
Our stay there was no less than magical.
1506, is according to the Guiness Book of Records, THE REMOTEST
inhabited island in the world. The anchorage at Edinburgh on the north
coast is an open roadstead and weather-dependent. After 2500 miles of
sailing, we were fortunate enough to have light southerly breezes when we
arrived and had the chance to go ashore for two consecutive days.
The island's population is about 300 people...all hardy and independent
souls. The islanders primary source of income is the harvest of Tristan
lobsters and fish for export. They grow most of their own produce in an
area on the east coast called "the patches". They raise their own livestock,
mostly sheep and cattle and chickens. They seem keenly aware of nature's
fine balance and limit the number of livestock to amount of grazing areas
available. They fish, but make sure the lobsters are replenishing.
Our stay there was no less than magical.
Tristan lobsters!!! Man, were they ever
good. Andy & Lorraine gave us a freezer
full and we enjoyed them even after we
arrived in South Africa!
good. Andy & Lorraine gave us a freezer
full and we enjoyed them even after we
arrived in South Africa!
A view of Inaccessible Island in the
distance. The two rocks sticking up are
called "the Hardies".
distance. The two rocks sticking up are
called "the Hardies".
The island has a small supermarket
which is fairly well-stocked on dry and
canned goods and predictably low on
fresh produce. The islanders rely on
infrequent boats from South Africa for
items not produced on the island.
which is fairly well-stocked on dry and
canned goods and predictably low on
fresh produce. The islanders rely on
infrequent boats from South Africa for
items not produced on the island.
The Residency of the British
Administrator above had an outstanding
view of the Atlantic. We took tea with
Administrator Michael Hentley and his
wife, Janice and enjoyed a great chat
about their life in the Foreign Service.
Administrator above had an outstanding
view of the Atlantic. We took tea with
Administrator Michael Hentley and his
wife, Janice and enjoyed a great chat
about their life in the Foreign Service.
The island is noted for its birdlife, but we
didn't get the chance to spend much time
birdwatching unfortuately. Rockhopper
penguins are resident here and the other
Tristan islands, but we "borrowed" this
photo from the Tristan website because
we saw nary a one.
didn't get the chance to spend much time
birdwatching unfortuately. Rockhopper
penguins are resident here and the other
Tristan islands, but we "borrowed" this
photo from the Tristan website because
we saw nary a one.
Only 2 nights were spent at Tristan and
the weather changed and we
reluctantly needed to move on. We still
had 1,500 miles to Cape Town and the
days were ticking quickly on towards
Christmas.
We arrived in Cape Town on 21
December after a rough last day of 35
knot winds on the nose, nasty waves
and a north setting current. The wind
subsided and the sun appeared as we
sailed into Table Bay.
the weather changed and we
reluctantly needed to move on. We still
had 1,500 miles to Cape Town and the
days were ticking quickly on towards
Christmas.
We arrived in Cape Town on 21
December after a rough last day of 35
knot winds on the nose, nasty waves
and a north setting current. The wind
subsided and the sun appeared as we
sailed into Table Bay.
Crossing the Prime Meridian (0
longitude).
longitude).
Magnificent Table Mountain, Cape Town, South
Africa
Africa
Check out the official Tristan da Cunha
website at
www.tristandc.com/newsshipping0506.ph
p
Our visit is noted in their "Shipping
News".
website at
www.tristandc.com/newsshipping0506.ph
p
Our visit is noted in their "Shipping
News".