| s/y Nine of Cups Coast Hopping in Chile December 2005 - February 2006 |
| Some country facts: Capital: Santiago Population: ~16 million (2005 estimate) Land Area: ~292,260 sq mi (about 2x the size of Montana) Highest Peak: Nevado Ojos del Salado (22,572') Political units: 13 regions Language: Spanish (Castellano) Currency: Peso...currently ~530 pesos = $1USD Exports: Copper and minerals; seafood, wine and fresh produce. The country is long and skinny with nearly 2,700 miles of coastline, the distance between San Francisco and New York. Yet it is only 150 miles at its widest point. We entered the country at its northern most port, Arica, and have slowly moved southward. We've primarily coast hopped in an attempt to avoid the strong northset Humboldt Current and the prevailing southerly winds. We try to stop in each major port and do some exploring to learn as much as possible about the country, its people and its culture. |
Arica...Chile's First Port
The prominent headland El Morro is one of the
first things you spot from the sea and figures
predominantly into the view ashore. Battles
have been fought atop it and now it's an
historical monument with a wonderful lookout,
park and museum on the top which we visited.
first things you spot from the sea and figures
predominantly into the view ashore. Battles
have been fought atop it and now it's an
historical monument with a wonderful lookout,
park and museum on the top which we visited.
A pedestrian mall in the center of town
offers restaurants, boutiques and artisans.
offers restaurants, boutiques and artisans.
From the top of El Morro, we photographed
the anchorage comprised primarily of fishing
boats, Nine of Cups was the only sailboat in the
harbor and one of few visiting yachts in 2005.
the anchorage comprised primarily of fishing
boats, Nine of Cups was the only sailboat in the
harbor and one of few visiting yachts in 2005.
The Iglesia San Marcos on the plaza is a
Gustave Eiffel design, fabricated in Paris,
shipped in pieces and erected here in 1876.
Gustave Eiffel design, fabricated in Paris,
shipped in pieces and erected here in 1876.
Familia Delgado Celis...Jorge, Oriana and
4-year old Javiera became good friends. Jorge,
a member of the Chilean Coast Guard, was a
most gracious host, showing us the city of
Arica and sharing both his home and family
with us.
4-year old Javiera became good friends. Jorge,
a member of the Chilean Coast Guard, was a
most gracious host, showing us the city of
Arica and sharing both his home and family
with us.
There were lots of sea lions here. They barked
us into the harbor and the anchorage and
continued to entertain us throughout our visit.
us into the harbor and the anchorage and
continued to entertain us throughout our visit.
From Arica, we took a daytrip to Lago Chungara in Lauca
National Park...from sea level to 15,000' in a matter of a few
hours. The scenery was fantastic as you can see. The
altiplano region differed greatly from the arid desert coastline
we had become accustomed to. It snowed while we were
there and Marcie made good use of a scarf purchased from
a local artisan. A view of the Lago Chungara above.
National Park...from sea level to 15,000' in a matter of a few
hours. The scenery was fantastic as you can see. The
altiplano region differed greatly from the arid desert coastline
we had become accustomed to. It snowed while we were
there and Marcie made good use of a scarf purchased from
a local artisan. A view of the Lago Chungara above.
There are four members of the camelid family indigenous to the
Andes. We had already seen the domesticated alpaca and llama
many times. We spotted wild vicuñas in Ecuador and Peru. It
wasn't until Parque Lauca, however, that we finally saw the
fourth member...the elusive guanaco, pictured above.
Andes. We had already seen the domesticated alpaca and llama
many times. We spotted wild vicuñas in Ecuador and Peru. It
wasn't until Parque Lauca, however, that we finally saw the
fourth member...the elusive guanaco, pictured above.
Iquique
This was an interesting town to
visit. That's David in the photo
to the left in the red shirt,
enjoying the morning sun and a
cup of coffee at a sidewalk cafe.
To the right, an interesting town
clock on the beautiful Plaza
Pratt. Iquique has the dubious
honor of shipping more fishmeal
than any other port in the world.
This was an interesting town to
visit. That's David in the photo
to the left in the red shirt,
enjoying the morning sun and a
cup of coffee at a sidewalk cafe.
To the right, an interesting town
clock on the beautiful Plaza
Pratt. Iquique has the dubious
honor of shipping more fishmeal
than any other port in the world.
San Pedro de Atacama
We trekked along the dunes in the Atacama
Desert, appreciating outstanding views in the
driest place on earth. Some areas of this desert
have not had any recorded rainfall in the past
400 years!
Desert, appreciating outstanding views in the
driest place on earth. Some areas of this desert
have not had any recorded rainfall in the past
400 years!
We took a land trip to San Pedro de
Atacama, a small, dusty (touristy) oasis
town in the middle of the Atacama
Desert.
Atacama, a small, dusty (touristy) oasis
town in the middle of the Atacama
Desert.
The terrain of the Valle de la Luna was
rugged and red and reminded us of the
Southwest U.S.
rugged and red and reminded us of the
Southwest U.S.
We continued south staying a few days
here and a few days there depending
on the weather, the wind and our
whims.
We visited Antofagasta, Mejillones,
Taltal and Cifuncho. Each town has
something unique to offer, something
interesting to see. Without exception,
the Chilean people have been warm,
friendly and helpful. We are sometimes
overwhelmed by their generous
hospitality
here and a few days there depending
on the weather, the wind and our
whims.
We visited Antofagasta, Mejillones,
Taltal and Cifuncho. Each town has
something unique to offer, something
interesting to see. Without exception,
the Chilean people have been warm,
friendly and helpful. We are sometimes
overwhelmed by their generous
hospitality
Mejillones del Sur
Caldera
The Port Captain's office in the pretty little town
of Mejillones del Sur was once a working
lighthouse.
of Mejillones del Sur was once a working
lighthouse.
San Pedro de Caldera, the patron saint of this
little town, watches over the harbor.
little town, watches over the harbor.
Isla Damas
Located only a few miles offshore, Isla
Damas is a 60 hectare metamorphic
outcrop and part of Chile's national park
system. We anchored off the beach and
dinghied ashore. There was a small
network of well-defined trails lined in
shells criss-crossing the island. The desert
was in bloom when we arrived and the
flowers were astounding in colors of pink,
yellow, red, orange and purples.
Left, one of the many cactus in bloom.
Right, Cups at anchor off Isla Damas.
Damas is a 60 hectare metamorphic
outcrop and part of Chile's national park
system. We anchored off the beach and
dinghied ashore. There was a small
network of well-defined trails lined in
shells criss-crossing the island. The desert
was in bloom when we arrived and the
flowers were astounding in colors of pink,
yellow, red, orange and purples.
Left, one of the many cactus in bloom.
Right, Cups at anchor off Isla Damas.
Coquimbo
We stayed several weeks at anchor at
the Yacht Club in LaHerradura,
Coquimbo. It wasn't the plan, but then
plans are always subject to change.
David had some medical issues to be
handled (we found Chilean medical care
to be excellent) and some business back
in the U.S. prompted a trip home in
November 2005.
Right, Crux del Tercer Milenio (Cross
of the Third Millenium), is nearly 100
meters tall and overlooks the city.
the Yacht Club in LaHerradura,
Coquimbo. It wasn't the plan, but then
plans are always subject to change.
David had some medical issues to be
handled (we found Chilean medical care
to be excellent) and some business back
in the U.S. prompted a trip home in
November 2005.
Right, Crux del Tercer Milenio (Cross
of the Third Millenium), is nearly 100
meters tall and overlooks the city.
At anchor at Yacht Club La Herradura,
Coquimbo.
Coquimbo.
Vicuna
Not to be confused with the critter of
the same name, we visited the little
town of Vicuna by bus from
Coquimbo. The whole area known as
the Elqui Valley, is rich and fertile and
home to an inordinate number of
vineyards. The town is also home to the
Gabriela Mistral museum, Chile's
Nobel prize winning poet and
humanitarian.
the same name, we visited the little
town of Vicuna by bus from
Coquimbo. The whole area known as
the Elqui Valley, is rich and fertile and
home to an inordinate number of
vineyards. The town is also home to the
Gabriela Mistral museum, Chile's
Nobel prize winning poet and
humanitarian.
Talcahuano / Concepcion
We returned from the States at the end of
November and left Coquimbo within days,
hoping to make it to Puerto Montt for
Christmas. Adverse current and stubborn
southerly winds worked against us. When
we knew we couldn't make Puerto Montt,
we thought maybe Valdivia...after
heaving-to for several days in our fruitless
attempt to make some southerly progress,
we finally pulled into Talcahuano 2 days
before Christmas.
We anchored the first night with the fishing
boats and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
Talcahuano is the headquarters of the
Chilean Armada and they hailed us early
the next morning and invited us to stay at
their Naval Yacht Club.
Christmas Eve was spent in the neighboring
city of Concepcion, gathering provisions for
Christmas dinner...a small, smoked turkey
and all the trimmings including cranberry
sauce hand carried from the States. We
didn't have a Christmas tree, but found a
lovely bouquet of bright red glads to add
some color to the holiday...and according
to Jelly, some really good smells.
Two days after Christmas, we headed
south once again.
November and left Coquimbo within days,
hoping to make it to Puerto Montt for
Christmas. Adverse current and stubborn
southerly winds worked against us. When
we knew we couldn't make Puerto Montt,
we thought maybe Valdivia...after
heaving-to for several days in our fruitless
attempt to make some southerly progress,
we finally pulled into Talcahuano 2 days
before Christmas.
We anchored the first night with the fishing
boats and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
Talcahuano is the headquarters of the
Chilean Armada and they hailed us early
the next morning and invited us to stay at
their Naval Yacht Club.
Christmas Eve was spent in the neighboring
city of Concepcion, gathering provisions for
Christmas dinner...a small, smoked turkey
and all the trimmings including cranberry
sauce hand carried from the States. We
didn't have a Christmas tree, but found a
lovely bouquet of bright red glads to add
some color to the holiday...and according
to Jelly, some really good smells.
Two days after Christmas, we headed
south once again.
David looks at the "Huascar", a Peruvian
battleship captured by the Chileans in the War of
the Pacific.
battleship captured by the Chileans in the War of
the Pacific.
Shearwaters line the boom of an
unoccupied sailboat in the yacht club.
unoccupied sailboat in the yacht club.
Jelly takes time to "smell the roses"...I mean glads.
Spectacular Talcahuano sunset.
| Vineyard view |
Town clock on the plaza in Vicuna.
Continue with us on our journey when we
finally reach Puerto Montt and begin our
voyage through the canals of Patagonia.
finally reach Puerto Montt and begin our
voyage through the canals of Patagonia.
Recommended reading...
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