s/v Nine of Cups Chile - Heading South

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September - December 2005

Some country facts: Capital: Santiago Population: ~16  million (2005 estimate) Land Area: ~292,260 sq mi (about 2x the size of Montana) Highest Peak: Nevado Ojos del Salado (22,572') Political units: 13 regions Language: Spanish (Castellano) Currency:  Peso...currently ~530 pesos = $1USD Exports: Copper and minerals; seafood, wine and fresh produce. The country is long and skinny with nearly 2,700 miles of coastline, the distance between San Francisco and New York. Yet it is only 150 miles at its widest point. We entered the country at its northern most port, Arica, and have slowly moved southward. We've primarily coast hopped in an attempt to avoid the strong northset Humboldt Current and the prevailing southerly winds. We try to stop in each major port and do some exploring to learn as much as possible about the country, its people and its culture.

Arica...Chile's First Port

From the top of El Morro, we photographed the anchorage comprised primarily of fishing boats, Nine of Cups was the only sailboat in the harbor and one of few visiting yachts in 2005.

The prominent headland El Morro is one of the first things you spot from the sea and figures predominantly into the view ashore. Battles have been fought atop it and now it it an historical monument with a wonderful lookout, park and museum on the top which we visited.

A pedestrian mall in the center of town offers restaurants, boutiques, artisans and buskers.

Familia Delgado Celis...Jorge, Oriana and 4-year old Javiera became good friends. Jorge, a member of the Chilean Coast Guard, was a most gracious host, showing us the city of Arica and sharing both his home and family with us.

The Iglesia San Marcos on the plaza is a Gustave Eiffel design, fabricated in Paris, shipped in pieces  and erected here in 1876.

There were lots of sea lions here. They barked us into the harbor and the anchorage and continued to entertain us throughout our visit.

There are four members of the camelid family indigenous to the Andes. We had already seen the domesticated alpaca and llama many times. We spotted wild vicuņas in Ecuador and Peru. It wasn't until Parque Lauca, however, that we finally saw the fourth member...the elusive guanaco, pictured above.

From Arica, we took a daytrip to Lago Chungara in Lauca National Park...from sea level to 15,000' in a matter of a few hours. The scenery was fantastic as you can see. The altiplano region differed greatly from the arid desert coastline we had become accustomed to. It snowed while we were there and Marcie made good use of a scarf purchased from a local artisan. A view of the Lago Chungara above.

Iquique This was an interesting town to visit. That's David in the photo to the left in the red shirt, enjoying the morning sun and a cup of coffee at a sidewalk cafe. To the right, an interesting town clock on the beautiful Plaza Pratt. Iquique has the dubious honor of shipping more fishmeal than any other port in the world.

San Pedro de Atacama

The terrain of the Valle de la Luna was rugged and red and reminded us of the Southwest U.S.

We trekked along the dunes in the Atacama Desert, appreciating outstanding views in the driest place on earth. Some areas of this desert have not had any recorded rainfall in the past 400 years!

We took a land trip to San Pedro de Atacama, a small, dusty (touristy) oasis town in the middle of the Atacama Desert.

Caldera

Mejillones del Sur

We continued south staying a few days here and a few days there depending on the weather, the wind and our whims. We visited Antofagasta, Mejillones, Taltal and Cifuncho. Each town has something unique to offer, something interesting to see. Without exception, the Chilean people have been warm, friendly and helpful. We are sometimes overwhelmed by their generous hospitality

The Port Captain's office in the pretty little town of Mejillones del Sur was once a working lighthouse.

San Pedro de Caldera, the patron saint of this little town, watches over the harbor.

Isla Damas

Located only a few miles offshore, Isla Damas is a 60 hectare metamorphic outcrop and part of Chile's national park system. We anchored off the beach and dinghied ashore. There was a small network of well-defined trails lined in shells criss-crossing the island. The desert was in bloom when we arrived and the flowers were astounding in colors of pink, yellow, red, orange and purples. Left, one of the many cactus in bloom. Right, Cups at anchor off Isla Damas.

Coquimbo

We stayed several weeks at anchor at the Yacht Club in LaHerradura, Coquimbo. It wasn't the plan, but then plans are always subject to change. David had some medical issues to be handled (we found Chilean medical care to be excellent) and some business back in the U.S. prompted a trip home in November 2005. Left, Cups at anchor at Yacht Club La Herradura, Coquimbo. Right, Crux del Tercer Milenio (Cross of the Third Millenium), is nearly 100 meters tall and overlooks the city.

At anchor at Yacht Club La Herradura, Coquimbo.

Vicuņa

Not to be confused with the critter of the same name, we visited the little town of Vicuna by bus from Coquimbo. The whole area known as the Elqui Valley, is rich and fertile and home to an inordinate number of vineyards. The town is also home to the Gabriela Mistral museum, Chile's Nobel prize winning poet and humanitarian. Left, vineyard view. Right, town clock on the plaza in Vicuņa.

Talcahuano / Concepcion

We returned from the States at the end of November and left Coquimbo within days, hoping to make it to Puerto Montt for Christmas. Adverse current and stubborn southerly winds worked against us. When we knew we couldn't make Puerto Montt, we thought maybe Valdivia...after heaving-to for several days in our fruitless attempt to make some southerly progress, we finally pulled into Talcahuano 2 days before Christmas. We anchored the first night with the fishing boats and enjoyed a spectacular sunset. Talcahuano is the headquarters of the Chilean Armada and they hailed us early the next morning and invited us to stay at their Naval Yacht Club. Christmas Eve was spent in the neighboring city of Concepcion, gathering provisions for Christmas dinner...a small, smoked turkey and all the trimmings including cranberry sauce hand carried from the States. We didn't have a Christmas tree, but found a lovely bouquet of bright red glads to add some color to the holiday...and according to Jelly, some really good smells. Two days after Christmas, we headed south once again.

Shearwaters line the boom of an unoccupied sailboat in the yacht club.

David looks at the "Huascar", a Peruvian battleship captured by the Chileans in the War of the Pacific.

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