| Nine of Cups Cook Islands August 2009 |
| Cook Islands Facts: Capital: Avarua (on the island of Raratonga) Area: ~91 sq miles (about 1.3x the size of Washington, DC) Population: 21,388 (est 2006) Currency: New Zealand Dollar Time: -10 GMT Lowest point: Pacific Ocean (sea level) Highest point: Te Manga ~1434 ' above sea level Languages: English (official); Maori Guides: Lonely Planet South Pacific, Charlie's Charts, Mr John VI - The Dangerous Middle The Cook Islands is self-governing in free association with New Zealand. Cook Islands is fully responsible for internal affairs; New Zealand retains responsibility for external affairs and defense, in consultation with the Cook Islands. It is a self-governing parliamentary democracy. |
| The six northern Cook Islands are seven low-lying, sparsely populated, coral atolls which have formed atop of ancient sunken volcanoes. The nine southern Cook Islands, where most of the population lives, consist of eight elevated, fertile, volcanic isles, including the largest and the youngest, Rarotonga. |
| Named after Captain Cook, who first sighted them in 1770, the islands became a British protectorate in 1888. By 1900, administrative control was transferred to New Zealand; in 1965 residents chose self-government in free association with New Zealand. |
Our planned itinerary as of 13 August 2009 is to head to Penrhyn in the
Northern Cooks, then south to Manihiki, Suwarrow (Suvarov) and then on to
Palmerston. As always, everything is dependent on wind, weather and the
whims of the crew.
Northern Cooks, then south to Manihiki, Suwarrow (Suvarov) and then on to
Palmerston. As always, everything is dependent on wind, weather and the
whims of the crew.
| Penrhyn Atoll - Omoka Village 08S58.74 /158W03.06 |
| Penrhyn Aerial View |
| Penrhyn Atoll: Population: ~240 (190-Omoka; 50 TeTautua) Area: ~3.8 sq mi The village of Omoka is an official Port of Entry for the Cook Islands. |
| Also known by its traditional Maori name of Tongareva, meaning "Tonga, floating in space", it is the northernmost of the Cook Islands. Its most common name, Penryhn was named after the "Lady Penrhyn" commanded by Captain William Cropton Lever who landed on August 8, 1788. |
| The only native mammal in the Cooks is the Pacific fruit bat found on Mangaia and Rarotonga. Endemic birds include the cave-dwelling kopeka ('Atiu swiftlet) and the kakerori (Rarotongan flycatcher). |
| Kia Orana is hello in Raratongan or Cook Islands Maori, a Polynesian language most similar to New Zealand Maori and French Polynesian Marquesan. |
The sail from Bora Bora to Penrhyn was
downwind and plotted to be about 577 nm.
The ride was bumpy, but fast with 20-25 knot
winds all the way. Four days after leaving Bora
Bora, we sailed through Taruia Pass and
headed to the anchorage off the little village of
Omoka. We were instantly impressed with the
beauty of place, but our thoughts of being "off
the beaten path" were dashed when we found
five other boats at anchor here.
downwind and plotted to be about 577 nm.
The ride was bumpy, but fast with 20-25 knot
winds all the way. Four days after leaving Bora
Bora, we sailed through Taruia Pass and
headed to the anchorage off the little village of
Omoka. We were instantly impressed with the
beauty of place, but our thoughts of being "off
the beaten path" were dashed when we found
five other boats at anchor here.
| The missionaries arrived in 1854. Tongareva, together with many other Pacific islands, suffered the ravages of Peruvian slave raiders in the 19th century. In 1863 some 410 of the total population of about 500 were removed by trickery, the Spanish Peruvian perpetrators being abetted by four native missionary teachers who sold these unfortunates for five dollars a head! In fact, three of them accompanied the slaves to Peru as interpreters. The Peruvians knew the island as the Island of the Four Evangelists. |
Immediately inside the lagoon, the water shimmers
in shades of green, blue, turquoise and aquamarine.
in shades of green, blue, turquoise and aquamarine.
The markers looked as if they were marking a
golf green instead of a reef. Some reefs were
marked, some not, but with good overhead sun,
the reefs were easy enough to spot and avoid.
golf green instead of a reef. Some reefs were
marked, some not, but with good overhead sun,
the reefs were easy enough to spot and avoid.
| Cups anchored off Omoka village. |
A small coral and rock breakwater provides a
good place to tie up the dinghy.
good place to tie up the dinghy.
The first night we arrived, there was a dance
rehearsal and we were invited to attend along
with the other boats in the anchorage.
rehearsal and we were invited to attend along
with the other boats in the anchorage.
They were practicing for the competition in
Rarotonga in September which coincides with
their independence day. It's a major yearly
event as nearly all the islanders participate.
Rarotonga in September which coincides with
their independence day. It's a major yearly
event as nearly all the islanders participate.
The Cook Island government pays for the
passage for the dancers from all the islands to
Rarotonga, but this year the fees were so high,
there was some doubt as to whether they'd go.
passage for the dancers from all the islands to
Rarotonga, but this year the fees were so high,
there was some doubt as to whether they'd go.
Dancers of all ages seem to know the
moves intuitively and join in with the
practicing troupe.
moves intuitively and join in with the
practicing troupe.
The music was lively and David joined right in
playing his ukelele.
playing his ukelele.
After a night of camaraderie at the dance, we spent
the next day reconnoitering the town. The other
boats checked out and we were left alone in the
anchorage. Above, the Cook Islands bank which
unfortunately does not change foreign currency and
to the left, the main and only road in Omoka.
the next day reconnoitering the town. The other
boats checked out and we were left alone in the
anchorage. Above, the Cook Islands bank which
unfortunately does not change foreign currency and
to the left, the main and only road in Omoka.
We stopped at Ru Tiame's house...he's
the Customs/Immigration officer. David
had offered to try to fix a few things for
him (which he did). Above, Ru and his
grandson.
the Customs/Immigration officer. David
had offered to try to fix a few things for
him (which he did). Above, Ru and his
grandson.
Chilled coconut water was the beverage of
choice at Penrhyn. David sipped and worked.
Marcie sipped and clicked.
choice at Penrhyn. David sipped and worked.
Marcie sipped and clicked.
The street and
paths are lined with
tiare and frangipani.
Walking along, you
can't help but
notice the beauty of
the flowers and
appreciate rich
perfume hanging in
the air. White
tropic birds and
frigates soar
gracefully above.
paths are lined with
tiare and frangipani.
Walking along, you
can't help but
notice the beauty of
the flowers and
appreciate rich
perfume hanging in
the air. White
tropic birds and
frigates soar
gracefully above.
| A little Penrhyn graffitti... |
We met the local Nurse Practitioner who practices
at the little hospital/clinic above, but mostly does
house calls and services the two villages.
at the little hospital/clinic above, but mostly does
house calls and services the two villages.
Mrs. Jacob is the 5th grade teacher. They have
all 12 grades (about 50 kids) split up into three
different school sites since the designated school
building is falling apart.
all 12 grades (about 50 kids) split up into three
different school sites since the designated school
building is falling apart.
We were invited to Pa Tiame's one night
for dinner. Above, his niece poses with
her son. She's making a "rito" hat for
which the island is famous. "Rito" is the
dried palm leaf.
for dinner. Above, his niece poses with
her son. She's making a "rito" hat for
which the island is famous. "Rito" is the
dried palm leaf.
The islanders gave pearl farming a go in the 1990's,
but it didn't work out for them. Too much work for
too little return...the market is competitive and the
price of pearls is down. Now there is little work on
the island, other than government jobs. Most young
people leave to find work in Raro, NZ or Australia.
but it didn't work out for them. Too much work for
too little return...the market is competitive and the
price of pearls is down. Now there is little work on
the island, other than government jobs. Most young
people leave to find work in Raro, NZ or Australia.
Though the NZ $ is the coin of the realm, the
Cooks have their own very unique coins.
Also, we found out at the little post office that
each main island has its own stamp issue.
Cooks have their own very unique coins.
Also, we found out at the little post office that
each main island has its own stamp issue.
| Benui gave us a huge lobster (over a kilo) which we promptly cooked and ate. |
Though there's only one street, there were several
vehicles on the island.
vehicles on the island.
We went walking on the reef one day. The water was clear and warm and loaded with lots
of fish including reef sharks and loads of sea cucumbers...squishy under the feet!
of fish including reef sharks and loads of sea cucumbers...squishy under the feet!
| Te Tautua - 08S57.46 / 157W55.84 |
We motored the 7, coral-studded miles across the
lagoon to TeTautua. A smaller village, there are no
vehicles here, only about 50 people, all related in some
way, shape or form.
lagoon to TeTautua. A smaller village, there are no
vehicles here, only about 50 people, all related in some
way, shape or form.
In 1987, John Neal visited and left
a yacht record book to be
maintained by Aloha's father (she's
pictured right). When he died, the
book was left in Aloha's care and
she'll pass it on to her son, Benui.
a yacht record book to be
maintained by Aloha's father (she's
pictured right). When he died, the
book was left in Aloha's care and
she'll pass it on to her son, Benui.
| The main and only street in Te Tautua. |
| A few words about trading in Penrhyn... The people are SO friendly and are such good traders that the boat would be stripped if we gave them all they asked for. They're like the Kunas of Panama, except they speak English. They descend upon you as soon as you're anchored (and that includes the officials). They really don't want anything for free, it's primarily trade, (though they'd never turn down a freebie), but sometimes we weren't interested in what they had to trade even though they thought that their trade items were to "die for". How do you tell people who are your hosts that you don't want what they have to offer? An example in Te Tautua, one fellow came aboard with his Mom (she's about 70)and 3 other family members when we first arrived asking if we wanted to trade. Having just traded with another fellow who had beaten them to the boat and was still aboard (and we knew we had gotten the lesser end of the deal), we decided we'd say "yes" but not today...we'd take the dinghy to the beach the next day and see them then. We wanted to regroup and figure out a better trading strategy. Before 9am the next morning, they were back out and climbing aboard the boat ready to trade. "Do you have sun glasses? Do you have towels? sheets? bungy cord? fish hooks? sewing thread? mixing bowls? Dremel tools? drill bits? " The questions went on and on. It's like a scavenger hunt on the boat figuring out if you have what they're asking for, if you want to part with it and then figuring out where in the heck it might be because if you're willing to part with it and you don't use it, it's probably stowed away somewhere. So now having dug everything out, it's all laying in the cockpit or on the saloon floor and they dig out some polished shells and a couple of natural pearls and say..."okay, fair trade?". We say, "NO!!!" (but in a nice way, of course). They dig out one more pearl and one more shell. "Now, okay? Do you have any perfume?" It just goes on and on. Eventually they wear you down and you say "Okay" and hope they'll leave soon. But, of course, they say "Do you have any ....?" and it starts all over again. It's like a game of Go Fish. Finally, we had no more to trade, but the questions of "Do you have...?" continued until we left. They are very, very cautious of who is trading for what and for how much and always say, "Don't tell anyone what we traded or what we got". A little competition between families. The best items for trade, by the way, were "rito" hats and fans (the hats are hard to trade for, but it's possible), carved shell jewelry, shells and natural pearls (white and yellow). |
Some of our trade items from Omoka
village...not shown a rito fan, a pair of
carved shell earrings and a pair
mini-rito fans that will be used as
Christmas ornaments.
village...not shown a rito fan, a pair of
carved shell earrings and a pair
mini-rito fans that will be used as
Christmas ornaments.
Benui wrapping last night's catch of
parrot fish in plastic for the freezer.
parrot fish in plastic for the freezer.
We attended the church service on Sunday. Strict
rules: men wear long pants, collared shirts; women
must wear a dress that covers knees and shoulders
and a hat. Be in the last pew no later than 0945. The
singing was superb...all songs sung effortlessly in
multi-part harmony. I asked about the name of the
church, "Betel'a"...in Maori, it's where Jesus was born.
rules: men wear long pants, collared shirts; women
must wear a dress that covers knees and shoulders
and a hat. Be in the last pew no later than 0945. The
singing was superb...all songs sung effortlessly in
multi-part harmony. I asked about the name of the
church, "Betel'a"...in Maori, it's where Jesus was born.
While walking through the cemetery, we saw a
great shot of Cups sitting comfortably in the bay.
great shot of Cups sitting comfortably in the bay.
Frangipani and tiare grew profusely here, too.
Pink sand beaches on the Cooks are the stuff dreams
are made of...and they're deserted and go on forever.
are made of...and they're deserted and go on forever.
| Manihiki Atoll - Tauhunu Village 10S25.38 / 161W02.23 |
| In the 14th century, Rarotongan explorers left from the Cook Islands in canoes to settle in New Zealand and are the ancestors of the present day Maori. |
| Manihiki Atoll Population: 660 Area: ~2.1 sq miles |
| Penrhyn is best known for its finely woven "rito" hats made from local palm tree leaves and incorporating a polished shell in its crown. |
| Manihiki is renowned for its pearl divers who dive to greath depths holding their breaths for several minutes. |
| Visit Suwarrow Atoll, the Cook Islands' only national park by clicking here. |
We sailed about 220 nm and arrived at
the anchorage at Manihiki off Tauhunu
village at about 0800. It was a warm,
sunny day. The anchorage was calm and
peaceful and we were all alone. A ship
had passed during the night and we
surmised it was the supply ship heading
to Penrhyn. Activity ashore confirmed
this was correct. Manihiki was definitely
a more affluent and modern island with
larger buildings, tractors and backhoes
to move equipment and supplies.
the anchorage at Manihiki off Tauhunu
village at about 0800. It was a warm,
sunny day. The anchorage was calm and
peaceful and we were all alone. A ship
had passed during the night and we
surmised it was the supply ship heading
to Penrhyn. Activity ashore confirmed
this was correct. Manihiki was definitely
a more affluent and modern island with
larger buildings, tractors and backhoes
to move equipment and supplies.
Dolphins accompanied us on our way to
Manihiki...always a good omen.
Manihiki...always a good omen.
The Cook Islands Christian church (one of
two churches on the island) is visible from
the anchorage. It's new since the cyclone
with a graveyard on either side of it.
two churches on the island) is visible from
the anchorage. It's new since the cyclone
with a graveyard on either side of it.
This older building with gingerbread
decoration evidently survived the cyclone
decoration evidently survived the cyclone
In 1997, the island took a direct hit from
Cyclone Martin resulting in the loss of 19 lives
and devastation of most buildings. The
modern looking village attests to the fact that
many structures have been rebuilt.
Cyclone Martin resulting in the loss of 19 lives
and devastation of most buildings. The
modern looking village attests to the fact that
many structures have been rebuilt.
Grave sites such as the ones above are
located throughout the island, showing the
respect and care given to their ancestors.
located throughout the island, showing the
respect and care given to their ancestors.
The island has a brand new hospital with a
resident physician and dentist. Maurara gave
us a tour of the 4-bed ward and told us the
dentist only did extractions. Ouch!
resident physician and dentist. Maurara gave
us a tour of the 4-bed ward and told us the
dentist only did extractions. Ouch!
Manihiki black pearls are the economic
mainstay of the island and are a significant
export. Above, a small pearl farm on the
exquisite lagoon.
mainstay of the island and are a significant
export. Above, a small pearl farm on the
exquisite lagoon.
Manihiki's lagoon is absolutely gorgeous. It is
totally enclosed with no natural pass deep
enough to allow anything but small boats to
pass through.
totally enclosed with no natural pass deep
enough to allow anything but small boats to
pass through.
In addition to the usual plastic fish floats, we
were surprised to see netted glass "witching
balls", a high-priced "antique" in the USA.
were surprised to see netted glass "witching
balls", a high-priced "antique" in the USA.
We figured this was the local Yamaha dealer!
Attesting to its affluence, Manihiki has an
active "Optimist" sailing club.
active "Optimist" sailing club.
Many traditional houses here were two stories on
stilts with long thatched overhangs to keep out sun
and rain. The open first floor had living room
furniture, dining set and all the comforts of home...just
no walls!
stilts with long thatched overhangs to keep out sun
and rain. The open first floor had living room
furniture, dining set and all the comforts of home...just
no walls!
Our visit here was cut short by a change
in weather. Since the anchorage is an
open roadstead, we opted to leave after
only one visit a shore which was
disappointing, but prudent. Our next
destination was Suwarrow Atoll National
Park. Come all with us.
in weather. Since the anchorage is an
open roadstead, we opted to leave after
only one visit a shore which was
disappointing, but prudent. Our next
destination was Suwarrow Atoll National
Park. Come all with us.
