| Nine of Cups More cruising in the Cooks Islands - Suwarrow Atoll Aug - Sept 2009 |
| Suwarrow Atoll National Park Population: 6 (only 6 months of the year) Area: 0.15 sq miles Suwarrow (or Suvarov )Atoll is the Cook Islands' only National Park. It is populated only 6 months of the year by caretakers, John, his wife, Veronica and their four sons, Jeremiah, Jonah, Vani and Tino. |
| Suwarrow (Suvarov) Atoll - 13S14.91 / 163W06.52 |
Aerial view of Suwarrow
| The first European to visit the atoll was a Russian explorer, Lasarev, in 1814 aboard the Suvarov and named the island accordingly. When the Cook Islands gained independence, the name was changed to Suwarrow so it was more in tune with the Cook Island language. |
Suwarrow is the best known atoll in the
Cooks because of the book "An Island to
Oneself" by Tom Neale who lived here as a
hermit off and on for nearly 25 years
(1952-1977). A memorial to Neale lies on
the path from the jetty to the "yacht club"
Cooks because of the book "An Island to
Oneself" by Tom Neale who lived here as a
hermit off and on for nearly 25 years
(1952-1977). A memorial to Neale lies on
the path from the jetty to the "yacht club"
A view of the anchorage from the small jetty on
Anchorage Island. There is only one designated
anchorage just off Anchorage Island. The
Seven Islands anchorage may be used with
permission in strong southeasterly winds.
Anchorage Island. There is only one designated
anchorage just off Anchorage Island. The
Seven Islands anchorage may be used with
permission in strong southeasterly winds.
John & Veronica are the caretakers of the park six
months of the year. They are extremely proud of the
park and consider themselves not only Suwarrow's
caretakers, but good will ambassadors of their
country, the Cook Islands. They're wonderful!
months of the year. They are extremely proud of the
park and consider themselves not only Suwarrow's
caretakers, but good will ambassadors of their
country, the Cook Islands. They're wonderful!
The sail from Manihiki to Suwarrow should
have been an easy two days, however it
didn't turn out that way. Strong SSE winds
(25-35 kts sustained) with big gusts, left us
close hauled all the way and seasick until we
finally opted to heave-to for a few hours. We
noted a small tear in the main and taped it
immediately, but a large gust caught it later
and BOOM!, the mainsail was blown to
shreds. We quickly lashed it down and
hanked on the storm trisail. The wind gen
began making a loud clanking noise and
while shutting it down, David noted that the
starboard stainless support for it had pulled
away from its secure point on the cap rail.
He lashed it down just in time to notice the
jib turning block which we used for the trisail
sheets was pulling out of the deck. As we
entered the pass into the Suwarrow Atoll,
the wind continued to howl and howled for
the next two days. Finally, a break in the
weather and we began the process of putting
Cups back together.
have been an easy two days, however it
didn't turn out that way. Strong SSE winds
(25-35 kts sustained) with big gusts, left us
close hauled all the way and seasick until we
finally opted to heave-to for a few hours. We
noted a small tear in the main and taped it
immediately, but a large gust caught it later
and BOOM!, the mainsail was blown to
shreds. We quickly lashed it down and
hanked on the storm trisail. The wind gen
began making a loud clanking noise and
while shutting it down, David noted that the
starboard stainless support for it had pulled
away from its secure point on the cap rail.
He lashed it down just in time to notice the
jib turning block which we used for the trisail
sheets was pulling out of the deck. As we
entered the pass into the Suwarrow Atoll,
the wind continued to howl and howled for
the next two days. Finally, a break in the
weather and we began the process of putting
Cups back together.
First things first, David fixed the wind
generator and its support so we could
generate power. Three different fixes were
required to fix three different problems on
the wind gen plus the support itself had to be
repaired and reinforced.
generator and its support so we could
generate power. Three different fixes were
required to fix three different problems on
the wind gen plus the support itself had to be
repaired and reinforced.
The sail was in tatters, but windy conditions
when we arrived (30-50 kt winds) prevented
us even taking a closer look. Instead, David
removed the jib turning block, epoxied and
redrilled holes through the metal backing
plate and through the deck and reaffixed the
block to the deck.
when we arrived (30-50 kt winds) prevented
us even taking a closer look. Instead, David
removed the jib turning block, epoxied and
redrilled holes through the metal backing
plate and through the deck and reaffixed the
block to the deck.
Our first opportunity to look at the sail came 3
days after we arrived. The weather calmed and
turned sunny and we took the sad sail ashore and
laid it out on the beach to determine the extent of
the damage and figure out how we could repair it.
days after we arrived. The weather calmed and
turned sunny and we took the sad sail ashore and
laid it out on the beach to determine the extent of
the damage and figure out how we could repair it.
John & Veronica generously offered to let us use the table in the "yacht club", but we found the sleeping hut
on the beach made an excellent sail loft. The raised sleeping platform allowed us to lay out the sail. Marcie
set up her sewing machine on the platform edge and could sit below it making manhandling and sewing of
the sail a bit easier. Initially, "oh my" (and similar, but stronger words) was all we could say. There was a
vertical tear for 20' and then two whole sections which were in tatters. But perserverance and help from our
friends (that's Clare of Manaroa III above) and 5 days later we had the mainsail back in place aboard Cups.
on the beach made an excellent sail loft. The raised sleeping platform allowed us to lay out the sail. Marcie
set up her sewing machine on the platform edge and could sit below it making manhandling and sewing of
the sail a bit easier. Initially, "oh my" (and similar, but stronger words) was all we could say. There was a
vertical tear for 20' and then two whole sections which were in tatters. But perserverance and help from our
friends (that's Clare of Manaroa III above) and 5 days later we had the mainsail back in place aboard Cups.
We collected lots of floats, two hardhats, half
a wetsuit (??), and even a raft had washed
ashore. We also found a washing machine and
part of a fridge!
a wetsuit (??), and even a raft had washed
ashore. We also found a washing machine and
part of a fridge!
We may have worked hard during the days, but the nights were reserved for get togethers at the Suwarrow Yacht Club. We had 5 potlucks
including 3 birthday parties in the two weeks we were there. Everyone participated and feasting was excellent. John & Veronica always provide
fresh, grilled fish. At one point, there were 22 boats visiting the national park. We were #89 for the season when we arrived and boats were still
arriving each day. 122 boats visited last year.
including 3 birthday parties in the two weeks we were there. Everyone participated and feasting was excellent. John & Veronica always provide
fresh, grilled fish. At one point, there were 22 boats visiting the national park. We were #89 for the season when we arrived and boats were still
arriving each day. 122 boats visited last year.
Kathyrn (Manaroa III) celebrated her 19th
birthday on Suwarrow. She shows off the
earrings that David made her and the
gorgeous fresh hibiscus headdress that
Veronica made for her.
birthday on Suwarrow. She shows off the
earrings that David made her and the
gorgeous fresh hibiscus headdress that
Veronica made for her.
John's a pretty good guitarist and everyone
joined in for singalongs once the feasting
was done. Whenever other cruisers had
instruments, they joined right in.
joined in for singalongs once the feasting
was done. Whenever other cruisers had
instruments, they joined right in.
Two of the boys show off a coconut crab
and watch the reactions of the cruisers.
and watch the reactions of the cruisers.
Fish guts and skins were saved for feeding the
sharks on the ocean side of Anchorage Island.
Inside the lagoon, there were lots of black tip
and gray sharks, but none seemed to be
interested in cruisers.
sharks on the ocean side of Anchorage Island.
Inside the lagoon, there were lots of black tip
and gray sharks, but none seemed to be
interested in cruisers.
There was, however, lots of interest in the fish
remains. When Jeremiah brought them down
each evening and provided dinner, a feeding
frenzy occurred. Watch out for your toes!
remains. When Jeremiah brought them down
each evening and provided dinner, a feeding
frenzy occurred. Watch out for your toes!
Once the work was done, we had the
opportunity and privilege to explore more of the
park. With John & Veronica as our hosts and
guides, we were able to explore New and
Entrance Islands. Jeremiah came with us and the
crew of Kaori to explore Motu Tou, the most
distant of the islands in the atoll, to do a clean up
of the flotsam and jetsam that had washed
ashore. We came back with a dink full of trash,
but more importantly a camera full of
outstanding photos. The islands are breeding
grounds to a huge number of birds.
opportunity and privilege to explore more of the
park. With John & Veronica as our hosts and
guides, we were able to explore New and
Entrance Islands. Jeremiah came with us and the
crew of Kaori to explore Motu Tou, the most
distant of the islands in the atoll, to do a clean up
of the flotsam and jetsam that had washed
ashore. We came back with a dink full of trash,
but more importantly a camera full of
outstanding photos. The islands are breeding
grounds to a huge number of birds.
An adult frigate bird watches over a nest.
A baby frigate covered in down.
| Red footed boobies filled the trees, their fledges and babies screeching for food. |
We saw not only birds, but lots of coconut crabs. The boys caught one and we
had a good time photographing and observing it, but they are protected and
not allowed for dinner.
had a good time photographing and observing it, but they are protected and
not allowed for dinner.
We had seen red tailed tropic birds in flight, but never close up. On Entrance Island, we were able to photograph them from a close vantage
point without seeming to disturb them. Above, an adult female on eggs, a juvenile and a baby.
point without seeming to disturb them. Above, an adult female on eggs, a juvenile and a baby.
| Above, a fairy tern couple; fairy tern fledge; fairy tern in flight and a fairy tern chick. |
We also saw moray eels (above), a whale spouting in
the distance beyond the reef, sharks, flounder, brown
noddies, curlews and sandpipers.
the distance beyond the reef, sharks, flounder, brown
noddies, curlews and sandpipers.
Exploring the reef was a great afternoon's
pastime and a wonderful respite from sail
repair and boat chores.
pastime and a wonderful respite from sail
repair and boat chores.
Veronica poses for the camera on a
day trip to New Island.
day trip to New Island.
As usual, it was time to go long before we really wanted to leave. Our chores were
complete and we had spent two weeks here at Suwarrow, the limit allowed. It was
already September and there was still quite a distance to cover before cyclone
season began in November. We delayed as long as possible, then finally said our
goodbyes with promises to keep in touch and hopefully return. We were so very
impressed by John & Veronica and their family: their sense of pride in the park;
their knowledge of the atoll and its inhabitants; their rugged independence; their
overwhelming hospitality and good natures.
complete and we had spent two weeks here at Suwarrow, the limit allowed. It was
already September and there was still quite a distance to cover before cyclone
season began in November. We delayed as long as possible, then finally said our
goodbyes with promises to keep in touch and hopefully return. We were so very
impressed by John & Veronica and their family: their sense of pride in the park;
their knowledge of the atoll and its inhabitants; their rugged independence; their
overwhelming hospitality and good natures.
Now we're on to Niue...the "Rock of
Polynesia". Come on along!
Polynesia". Come on along!
| Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson called Suwarrow, "the most romantic island in the word". |