| s/y Nine of Cups Return to New Zealand September 2010 - December 2010 |
We returned to New Zealand in
mid-September to find Nine of Cups a bit
forlorn, but waiting patiently for us on her
mooring. We were glad to be home. Folks
told us that she'd survived 100+ km/hr
winds and torrential downpours. She was
dry inside and there was barely a trace
mold or mildew. We were pleased to move
back aboard and brought her into a marina
berth for a well-deserved bath and some
rest.
A friend, Lily, took this photo of Cups from
her boat during one of the many winter
storms that Cups endured.
mid-September to find Nine of Cups a bit
forlorn, but waiting patiently for us on her
mooring. We were glad to be home. Folks
told us that she'd survived 100+ km/hr
winds and torrential downpours. She was
dry inside and there was barely a trace
mold or mildew. We were pleased to move
back aboard and brought her into a marina
berth for a well-deserved bath and some
rest.
A friend, Lily, took this photo of Cups from
her boat during one of the many winter
storms that Cups endured.
Since we've been back, we've been busy
(what a surprise!). David has redesigned and
installed a new fridge/freezer controller which
is working wonderfully. He's also designed a
digital chain counter for the windlass and
installed it which should help in the anchoring
department. (Those pesky markers and
painted chain always wear out or wear off).
Having left Cups abandoned for several
months, she needed much attention. We
asked NZ Customs for yet another 6 month
extension to get some boat work done and lo
and behold, it was granted...no grovelling
required. And so it begins. We're hoping to
have all complete by Christmas to take
advantage of NZ's wonderful summer season.
(what a surprise!). David has redesigned and
installed a new fridge/freezer controller which
is working wonderfully. He's also designed a
digital chain counter for the windlass and
installed it which should help in the anchoring
department. (Those pesky markers and
painted chain always wear out or wear off).
Having left Cups abandoned for several
months, she needed much attention. We
asked NZ Customs for yet another 6 month
extension to get some boat work done and lo
and behold, it was granted...no grovelling
required. And so it begins. We're hoping to
have all complete by Christmas to take
advantage of NZ's wonderful summer season.
| Big boat projects for 2010-2011 |
Unstepping the mast is a major
project... not unlike replacing the engine
last year!
project... not unlike replacing the engine
last year!
We had our decks redone five years ago in Ecuador.
Evidently, not a good job, as the deck was delaminating
again. An evaluation indicated that a good portion of the
foredeck and side decks will need significant repair
work. This might take awhile!
Evidently, not a good job, as the deck was delaminating
again. An evaluation indicated that a good portion of the
foredeck and side decks will need significant repair
work. This might take awhile!
Midst all else, the brightwork will need
sanding and varnishing...perhaps even
stripping...and of course, there's the
inevitable bottom job to think of. :(-
sanding and varnishing...perhaps even
stripping...and of course, there's the
inevitable bottom job to think of. :(-
| Life beyond boat work (as if...) |
Oh, yes, there is life beyond boat work.
You just have to keep looking for it. The
Opua and the Bay of Islands areas are
criss-crossed with tracks and trails for
walks. Flowers are constantly in bloom
and there are lots of birds to keep us
interested. When possible, we take
morning walks up the hill behind the Opua
harbor or along the coast before starting
our chores...that's after our morning cuppa
and card game, of course.
You just have to keep looking for it. The
Opua and the Bay of Islands areas are
criss-crossed with tracks and trails for
walks. Flowers are constantly in bloom
and there are lots of birds to keep us
interested. When possible, we take
morning walks up the hill behind the Opua
harbor or along the coast before starting
our chores...that's after our morning cuppa
and card game, of course.
| Opua in the morning mist |
View from the top of hill heading down to Opua
There always seems to be something in bloom.
Above, bartlettina . For more New Zealand
flowers, click here.
Above, bartlettina . For more New Zealand
flowers, click here.
The ferns are unfurling...above a huge tree
fern with unfurling fronds welcomes Spring.
fern with unfurling fronds welcomes Spring.
| Cape Reinga (Te Reinga or Te Rerenga Wairua) - 34.43S / 172.68E |
Despite the growing list of boat chores and projects,
Marcie insists on celebrating her birthday and David
never denies her. This year's present was a weekend
trip to Cape Reinga at the very tip of New Zealand's
North Island.
It was a perfect day...sunny, bright and warm.
Located about 100 km north of the nearest small
town of Kaitaia, State Highway 1 extends all the way
up the Aupouri Peninsula to the Cape. Until this year
(2010), the road was unsealed gravel for the last
19km. Timing's everything.
Marcie insists on celebrating her birthday and David
never denies her. This year's present was a weekend
trip to Cape Reinga at the very tip of New Zealand's
North Island.
It was a perfect day...sunny, bright and warm.
Located about 100 km north of the nearest small
town of Kaitaia, State Highway 1 extends all the way
up the Aupouri Peninsula to the Cape. Until this year
(2010), the road was unsealed gravel for the last
19km. Timing's everything.
| Cape Reinga Lighthouse |
| The name of the cape comes from the Māori word 'Reinga', meaning the underworld. Another Māori name is 'Te Rerenga Wairua', meaning the leaping-off place of spirits. Both refer to the Māori belief that the cape is the point where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld. According to Maori mythology, the spirits of the dead travel to Cape Reinga on their journey to the afterlife to leap off the headland and climb the roots of an 800-year-old pohutukawa tree and descend to the underworld to return to their traditional homeland of Hawaiiki-a-nui, using the Te Ara Wairua, the 'Spirits' pathway'. At Cape Reinga they depart the mainland. They turn briefly at the Three Kings Islands for one last look back towards the land, then continue on their journey. |
The birthday girl poses in front of Reinga
Light. "Which birthday?", you ask.
39...again, and again, and again.
Light. "Which birthday?", you ask.
39...again, and again, and again.
Actually, Cape Reinga is neither the most
northern nor the most western point of
New Zealand. The most western point is
Cape Maria van Diemen shown above.The
most northern is Surville Cliffs about 30
km to the east and inaccessible by car.
northern nor the most western point of
New Zealand. The most western point is
Cape Maria van Diemen shown above.The
most northern is Surville Cliffs about 30
km to the east and inaccessible by car.
Cape Reinga is generally considered the separation
marker between the Tasman Sea to the west and the
Pacific Ocean to the east. From the lighthouse it is
possible to watch the tidal race, as the two seas clash
to create unsettled waters just off the coast.
marker between the Tasman Sea to the west and the
Pacific Ocean to the east. From the lighthouse it is
possible to watch the tidal race, as the two seas clash
to create unsettled waters just off the coast.
| The lighthouse at Cape Reinga was built in 1941 and first lit during May of that year, replacing a lighthouse located on nearby Motuopao Island, which had been built 1879. In 1987, the lighthouse was fully automated and the lighthouse keepers were withdrawn. The previous 1000 watt light has since been replaced with a 50 watt flashing beacon. |
| The Aupouri Peninsula is rugged and desolate with huge sand dunes. Along its west coast is the Ninety Mile Beach...it's not really 90 miles, but the metric system just doesn't work in this situation for marketing purposes. Anyhow, it's a beautiful stretch of white sand beach. Unfortunately, they allow people to drive on it. In fact, it's a big tourist attraction and even buses drive it. Since we were borrowing a car, we figured not a good idea as several cars each year |
| A view of the 90 Mile Beach |
Delicate pink panahi, a native creeper,
grows wild in the coastal areas. See more
New Zealand flowers by clicking here.
grows wild in the coastal areas. See more
New Zealand flowers by clicking here.
New Zealand Sacred Kingfisher - See
more New Zealand birds.
more New Zealand birds.
Sand and dune surfing are a big attraction here.
These guys "sledded" down the dunes instead
of "surfing". We were content to watch.
of "surfing". We were content to watch.
All too soon, it was time to come back to
reality and Opua and the boat and get
working on those projects. You can only milk
a birthday getaway for so long. A great
weekend though, a fine respite and a visit to a
place we hadn't explored before.
reality and Opua and the boat and get
working on those projects. You can only milk
a birthday getaway for so long. A great
weekend though, a fine respite and a visit to a
place we hadn't explored before.
Soon after Marcie's birthday
came Thanksgiving in the US
which we, of course, celebrated
in New Zealand. We took out a small
mortgage to buy a turkey ($55 on sale for
8# turkey!). Marcie took a tape measure
to the grocery store to determine the
prospective turkey's dimensions to make
absolutely sure it would fit in our little oven.
(Curious stares from others shoppers
notwithstanding!). It did fit and the results
were delicious. We had roast turkey,
stuffing and all the traditional T-Day fixin's
including cranberry sauce and cranberry
pudding for dessert.
came Thanksgiving in the US
which we, of course, celebrated
in New Zealand. We took out a small
mortgage to buy a turkey ($55 on sale for
8# turkey!). Marcie took a tape measure
to the grocery store to determine the
prospective turkey's dimensions to make
absolutely sure it would fit in our little oven.
(Curious stares from others shoppers
notwithstanding!). It did fit and the results
were delicious. We had roast turkey,
stuffing and all the traditional T-Day fixin's
including cranberry sauce and cranberry
pudding for dessert.
| No worries...the turkey fit, but man, am I ever looking old! |
John & Shawn of Active Transport joined us for a toast
and Thanksgiving Day dinner aboard Nine of Cups.
Marcie finally figured out the self-timer on her camera.
and Thanksgiving Day dinner aboard Nine of Cups.
Marcie finally figured out the self-timer on her camera.
| Happy Thanksgiving 2010 |
| Roberton Island (Motuarohia)- 35.14S / 174.10E |
As members of SSCA (Seven Seas
Cruising Association), we participated in
several activities with the nearly 40 other
members here in Opua. The All Points
Rally finale and Opua Seafarer's Week
was two weeks of events, seminars and get
togethers culminating in the Cater Trade
Show Day where we helped to man a table
for SSCA. The Rally brought cruisers to
New Zealand from all parts of the South
Pacific to escape cyclone season. Some
have travelled home for the holidays and
other will cruise NZ for the austral summer.
Cruising Association), we participated in
several activities with the nearly 40 other
members here in Opua. The All Points
Rally finale and Opua Seafarer's Week
was two weeks of events, seminars and get
togethers culminating in the Cater Trade
Show Day where we helped to man a table
for SSCA. The Rally brought cruisers to
New Zealand from all parts of the South
Pacific to escape cyclone season. Some
have travelled home for the holidays and
other will cruise NZ for the austral summer.
| SSCA members in NZ Photo by Marcie Connelly-Lynn |
Marcie with Geoff (Grace) man the SSCA booth
as Kate (Tenaya) and Ted (Sequester) look on.
as Kate (Tenaya) and Ted (Sequester) look on.
One Sunday afternoon, we hitched a ride with
John & Lyn Martin aboard "Windflower" and
joined up with about 15 other boats at
Roberton Island .A joint SSCA/ICA potluck
picnic was held on the beach.
John & Lyn Martin aboard "Windflower" and
joined up with about 15 other boats at
Roberton Island .A joint SSCA/ICA potluck
picnic was held on the beach.
The day was absolutely gorgeous...warm with
light breezes and a bright blue, sunny sky
overhead. After eating our fill, we all climbed
the hill on a well-marked track to the overlook.
light breezes and a bright blue, sunny sky
overhead. After eating our fill, we all climbed
the hill on a well-marked track to the overlook.
We were rewarded with an outstanding view
of the Bay of Islands and the South Pacific
Ocean.
of the Bay of Islands and the South Pacific
Ocean.
| Christmas Season...Kiwi style - December 2010 |
It's been difficult to get into the Christmas
spirit (Read our blog of 18 December) so
we're trying to do some holiday things that
will help revive the enthusiasm of holidays
past. We don't exchange gifts for the most
part and gifts for family at home are mostly
in the form of cash. So there's no shopping
or wrapping in our holiday preparation nor
is there placing a star at the top of the tree.
Plus, of course, it's summer here in this
upside down country. People go to the
beach, have BBQs and take their
summer/school vacations. One fun thing
we did was to attend "Carols on the Lawn"
across the bay in Russell. It had been
raining for days, so the "lawn" venue
became the Christ Church.
spirit (Read our blog of 18 December) so
we're trying to do some holiday things that
will help revive the enthusiasm of holidays
past. We don't exchange gifts for the most
part and gifts for family at home are mostly
in the form of cash. So there's no shopping
or wrapping in our holiday preparation nor
is there placing a star at the top of the tree.
Plus, of course, it's summer here in this
upside down country. People go to the
beach, have BBQs and take their
summer/school vacations. One fun thing
we did was to attend "Carols on the Lawn"
across the bay in Russell. It had been
raining for days, so the "lawn" venue
became the Christ Church.
We took the car ferry across the bay and
caught someone decorating the tree on top
of the ferry's pilot house.
caught someone decorating the tree on top
of the ferry's pilot house.
Russell's Christ Church is the oldest church in New
Zealand (1847) and a perfect venue for Christmas
carols singing and capturing some Christmas spirit.
Zealand (1847) and a perfect venue for Christmas
carols singing and capturing some Christmas spirit.
This was not your usual Christmas carol event.
Our accompaniment was a ukelele group (how
South Pacific) strumming along to slightly
different versions of traditional carols we had
learned as children.
Our accompaniment was a ukelele group (how
South Pacific) strumming along to slightly
different versions of traditional carols we had
learned as children.
Belle a Capella entertained with some
non-traditional, but well-performed, holiday songs.
Local folks recited poems, told stories and got the
audience involved in some games.
non-traditional, but well-performed, holiday songs.
Local folks recited poems, told stories and got the
audience involved in some games.
| As well as the traditional songs like "Hark the Herald Angels" and "Deck the Halls", we were introduced to some Kiwi songs all celebrating the differences in summertime Christmas versus the cold, snowy winters in the Northern Hemisphere. "Not a Snowy Night" or "Te Harinui" (translation: great joy) has become New Zealand’s best-loved iconic Christmas carol, and was first performed in New Zealand by an Australian choir in 1959. The carol commemorates the first New Zealand Christmas in the Bay of Islands in 1814, and the coming together of Maori and Pakeha (that's us non-Maoris) at the holiday. Click for NZ Christmas carols and folksongs. |
Though we don't exchange Christmas gifts,
Marcie wanted to add to David's "fishing
hook" collection with carved pieces of bone,
paua and greenstone (nephrite jade)...all
symbolic of New Zealand.
Marcie wanted to add to David's "fishing
hook" collection with carved pieces of bone,
paua and greenstone (nephrite jade)...all
symbolic of New Zealand.
Having replaced sheets and halyards,
David uses the old line to make ocean
plait rugs for Christmas gifts to other
cruisers. Marcie made aprons and
baked goodies to give as gifts as well.
No department store shopping for us.
David uses the old line to make ocean
plait rugs for Christmas gifts to other
cruisers. Marcie made aprons and
baked goodies to give as gifts as well.
No department store shopping for us.
Purchasing a turkey in NZ is an expensive
affair, but more importantly, we had to check in
advance if it would even fit into our little oven.
affair, but more importantly, we had to check in
advance if it would even fit into our little oven.
We visited the Kerikeri Farmer's Market for all
of our fresh produce. Above, Evi
(Wonderland) and David check out the locally
grown macadamia nuts.
of our fresh produce. Above, Evi
(Wonderland) and David check out the locally
grown macadamia nuts.
Our Christmas feast was a festive affair. Ted &
Karen (Sequester) joined us along with Evi &
Robin (Wonderland).
Karen (Sequester) joined us along with Evi &
Robin (Wonderland).
Cleaning the stove...inside, outside and all
around...yuck!
around...yuck!
| Caulking the cap rail |
After Christmas found us in a flurry of activity,
frantically trying to get as many chores done as
possible to get away from the work dock by
year end. We opted to stay on the dock New
Year's Eve...it was a Friday and sailors'
superstition dictates that one never departs (or
starts anything major) on a Friday. We managed
to stay awake till midnight and celebrated a quiet
New Year's Eve on board...just the two of us
and a bottle of champagne. Happy New Year!
So what's next in 2011?
frantically trying to get as many chores done as
possible to get away from the work dock by
year end. We opted to stay on the dock New
Year's Eve...it was a Friday and sailors'
superstition dictates that one never departs (or
starts anything major) on a Friday. We managed
to stay awake till midnight and celebrated a quiet
New Year's Eve on board...just the two of us
and a bottle of champagne. Happy New Year!
So what's next in 2011?
| We will complete a circumnavigation of New Zealand this year. Come along for the ride...it's going to be quite an adventure. Fiordland Stewart Island Dunedin & the Otago Peninsula Chatham Islands Back to Opua |