They're usually about 15-20 feet long and hold
the entire family for outings such as visiting
sailing yachts. They usually paddle, but when
the wind is right, they raise a sail. We saw
fishermen miles offshore in them.
the entire family for outings such as visiting
sailing yachts. They usually paddle, but when
the wind is right, they raise a sail. We saw
fishermen miles offshore in them.
"Mola" is the Kuna word for blouse. Molas are one of the primary
expressions of visual art in the Kuna society. It is the product of
hand stitching layers of cotton cloth in the process known as
reverse applique. Intricate, very fine stitchery completes the
artwork. ll genuine molas are created by a Kuna woman as the
focal point of her own dress. The designs are always original and
are an important way for a woman to express herself and
demonstrate her talent and industry in this politically active and
traditionally matriarchal society. Marcie did her share in aiding the
Kuna economy by buying lots.
expressions of visual art in the Kuna society. It is the product of
hand stitching layers of cotton cloth in the process known as
reverse applique. Intricate, very fine stitchery completes the
artwork. ll genuine molas are created by a Kuna woman as the
focal point of her own dress. The designs are always original and
are an important way for a woman to express herself and
demonstrate her talent and industry in this politically active and
traditionally matriarchal society. Marcie did her share in aiding the
Kuna economy by buying lots.
Let me describe a Kuna woman for you. They all wear lots of jewelry and beads. The beads are very
tiny and multicolored. They string them themselves on fine string and wrap them in various patterns from
the wrist all the way up to the elbow. They do the same from their ankles up their lower legs and it looks
as if they are wearing leggings. The designs are intricate and very colorful. They also wear earrings...
dangly ones...a beautiful gold filigree. Most wear beaded and gold necklaces and have small gold nose
rings as well. Gold rings on the fingers complete the jewelry look. Most also rouge their cheeks in dark
red cicles about 2" in diameter. The coloful molas are incorporated into their blouses and they wear long
wraparound type skirts in varying designs and colors. Many also wear a long scarf around their heads
with the ends hanging down their backs or over their shoulders. Some use a black dye to paint themselves
with temporary tatoos. The men and kids look pretty darned ordinary compared to the women!
tiny and multicolored. They string them themselves on fine string and wrap them in various patterns from
the wrist all the way up to the elbow. They do the same from their ankles up their lower legs and it looks
as if they are wearing leggings. The designs are intricate and very colorful. They also wear earrings...
dangly ones...a beautiful gold filigree. Most wear beaded and gold necklaces and have small gold nose
rings as well. Gold rings on the fingers complete the jewelry look. Most also rouge their cheeks in dark
red cicles about 2" in diameter. The coloful molas are incorporated into their blouses and they wear long
wraparound type skirts in varying designs and colors. Many also wear a long scarf around their heads
with the ends hanging down their backs or over their shoulders. Some use a black dye to paint themselves
with temporary tatoos. The men and kids look pretty darned ordinary compared to the women!
| We eat well here. Fresh fish, crab and lobsters, coconuts, pineapples, mangoes, limes and very tiny little bananas. |
From Kanirdup to Mamitupu, which without a
doubt, was our favorite Kuna village. There we
met Pablo and his wife, Asinta. We were lucky
that Pablo spoke excellent English, having lived
in England for 7 years, and he answered lots of
questions for us.
doubt, was our favorite Kuna village. There we
met Pablo and his wife, Asinta. We were lucky
that Pablo spoke excellent English, having lived
in England for 7 years, and he answered lots of
questions for us.
| The Kunas live in thatched huts with dirt floors. There are lots of huts in varying sizes...some appear to be individual houses and others are communal in nature. The huts are very close together with a path just wide enough to walk through between them and arranged in rectangular grids like an urban neighborhood in the U.S. with wider "streets" at the front door of each hut. Wood fires are used for cooking and the smell of wood smoke carried in the wind to the boat each morning. Since the Kunas are small in stature, the doorways are almost quite short, making it awkward for us gringos to enter. |
Coco Banderas Cays - Remember that only about 50 of the 365 islands were
inhabited? Here's one of the ones that wasn't! It doesn't get much closer to paradise.
inhabited? Here's one of the ones that wasn't! It doesn't get much closer to paradise.
| Nine of Cups San Blas Islands - Kuna Yala 2003 |
San Blas Facts....
|
| The highest proportion of albino births in the world occurs here ~ 7 out of 1,000 births. |
| Patches of land are set aside for the spirits and botanical medicines. Monkeys, parrots, squirrels, wild pigs, and a variety of other animals also inhabit the mainland rainforest. |
| The main economy of the islands consists of coconuts, molas, bananas, plantain and root crops. "Everything is for sale and has a value…from coconuts to esoteric knowledge”. A cash economy exists alongside traditional subsistence farming and fishing. |
The trip from Colombia to Panama was a
pleasant 135-mile overnight passage. The
winds were light and we motored all the way
running into thunder, lightening and heavy
rains for about the last 6 hours of the 24-hour
trip. Our first port of call was Punta Perme
and the Kuna village of Anachucuna with a
population of about 300. After tidying up the
boat, we slept for a couple of hours. The
Kunas politely waited until they saw signs of
life aboard and paddled out in their ulus
(dugout canoes) to collect the “impuesto” or
anchoring tax of $10. One of the little girls on
the ulu also showed me a mola and David
ended up purchasing a hand of bananas from
a man on yet another ulu who also had
plantains, coconuts and langostas.
pleasant 135-mile overnight passage. The
winds were light and we motored all the way
running into thunder, lightening and heavy
rains for about the last 6 hours of the 24-hour
trip. Our first port of call was Punta Perme
and the Kuna village of Anachucuna with a
population of about 300. After tidying up the
boat, we slept for a couple of hours. The
Kunas politely waited until they saw signs of
life aboard and paddled out in their ulus
(dugout canoes) to collect the “impuesto” or
anchoring tax of $10. One of the little girls on
the ulu also showed me a mola and David
ended up purchasing a hand of bananas from
a man on yet another ulu who also had
plantains, coconuts and langostas.
We anchored a little west of the Anachucuna and
can see the thatched roofs of the village huts.
Several ulus have paddled by just out of curiosity.
can see the thatched roofs of the village huts.
Several ulus have paddled by just out of curiosity.
An excerpt from a letter home regarding
our visit by the Kuna family:
“As we sat, sometimes in silence just looking
at each other, Andres’ wife (we couldn’t
figure out her name), took some red and
yellow beads from her arm and began to tie
them on my right wrist. She did about 7
strands around, working each strand around
carefully and tying it off nicely. I swear that
during those moments she touched me and
slowly wrapped her gift of beads around my
wrist, we bonded in the universal way of
women. I felt only our mutual womanhood,
not the differences in our culture or
language…it was a most wonderful gift! (A
girl thing for sure!).
our visit by the Kuna family:
“As we sat, sometimes in silence just looking
at each other, Andres’ wife (we couldn’t
figure out her name), took some red and
yellow beads from her arm and began to tie
them on my right wrist. She did about 7
strands around, working each strand around
carefully and tying it off nicely. I swear that
during those moments she touched me and
slowly wrapped her gift of beads around my
wrist, we bonded in the universal way of
women. I felt only our mutual womanhood,
not the differences in our culture or
language…it was a most wonderful gift! (A
girl thing for sure!).
After two days in Anachucuna, we managed a 20-
mile motor trip to our next designated anchorage off
the island of Coetupu near the village of Caledonia
or in Kuna, Kanirdup. Unlike Anachucuna, which is
on mainland Panama, Kanirdup is an island
community and all the huts are built along the water’
s edge. The tiny separate enclosures over the water
are the toilet facilities. Fresh water is pumped in via
PVC pipe from the mainland.
mile motor trip to our next designated anchorage off
the island of Coetupu near the village of Caledonia
or in Kuna, Kanirdup. Unlike Anachucuna, which is
on mainland Panama, Kanirdup is an island
community and all the huts are built along the water’
s edge. The tiny separate enclosures over the water
are the toilet facilities. Fresh water is pumped in via
PVC pipe from the mainland.
A Kuna family came aboard for a visit and
brought limes and pifas as gifts.
brought limes and pifas as gifts.
The village of Kanirdup…the red flags flying
are political in nature and represent the Liberal
party of Panama.
are political in nature and represent the Liberal
party of Panama.
As always, the kids are the best for they are
themselves with no hidden agendas (other
than candy maybe).They were timid at first…
probably because of our color and size. But
once it was determined we didn’t bite (if they
only knew!), they clamored to hold hands as
we walked. We felt like Pied Pipers! Marcie
told stories and sang songs with them (in
Spanish no less) and David did magic tricks
and handed out candy.
themselves with no hidden agendas (other
than candy maybe).They were timid at first…
probably because of our color and size. But
once it was determined we didn’t bite (if they
only knew!), they clamored to hold hands as
we walked. We felt like Pied Pipers! Marcie
told stories and sang songs with them (in
Spanish no less) and David did magic tricks
and handed out candy.
Caledonia, the Spanish name for Kanirdup, has
a population of about 3,000 with lots of kids.
They have a school with 5 classrooms, 5
teachers and a principal. We were asked to take
a school picture and send it to them from
Panama City, which, of course, we did.
a population of about 3,000 with lots of kids.
They have a school with 5 classrooms, 5
teachers and a principal. We were asked to take
a school picture and send it to them from
Panama City, which, of course, we did.
No one wanted their pictures taken until
we printed a couple and brought them
back to the village then they lined up for a
photo. Kunas are little people. At 5’8”,
Marcie towered above these Kuna
women dressed in traditional garb. The
tallest woman we saw was about 4’8” and
the men weren’t much taller.
we printed a couple and brought them
back to the village then they lined up for a
photo. Kunas are little people. At 5’8”,
Marcie towered above these Kuna
women dressed in traditional garb. The
tallest woman we saw was about 4’8” and
the men weren’t much taller.
Ulus (dugout canoes) are the main mode
of transportation and are carved from a
single tree. Usually each village has a
craftsman who builds the ulus.
of transportation and are carved from a
single tree. Usually each village has a
craftsman who builds the ulus.
We like to try new things and in Anachucuna,
we were introduced to pifas. They are the fruit
of certain palm trees and taste like artichoke
hearts. We ate them for snacks, we ate them in
salads, we ate them till we could eat no more.
we were introduced to pifas. They are the fruit
of certain palm trees and taste like artichoke
hearts. We ate them for snacks, we ate them in
salads, we ate them till we could eat no more.
The idyllic photo above is "Pablo's Beach", the
place we would meet with them and sit and chat.
Pablo was writing a book about Kuna culture
and customs which he shared with us and which
we documented below.
place we would meet with them and sit and chat.
Pablo was writing a book about Kuna culture
and customs which he shared with us and which
we documented below.
Asinta hands were never idle. As we chatted,
she sewed molas or held babies. She and
Pablo had two huts, one on the beach and one
in “town”. We visited both. The hut on the
beach was more for tourists. The “town” hut
was traditional with dirt floors, bamboo stake
walls and a thatch roof. Hammocks are used
for sitting and sleeping as well as part of
several cultural ceremonies. Above, Asinta
with her 2-month old grandson. When I held
the baby boy, I noticed that his fingernails and
toenails were painted black. Traditionally, the
use of the black dye from the saptur tree keeps
evil spirits away. Sometimes the women use
the same dye to paint designs on their faces.
she sewed molas or held babies. She and
Pablo had two huts, one on the beach and one
in “town”. We visited both. The hut on the
beach was more for tourists. The “town” hut
was traditional with dirt floors, bamboo stake
walls and a thatch roof. Hammocks are used
for sitting and sleeping as well as part of
several cultural ceremonies. Above, Asinta
with her 2-month old grandson. When I held
the baby boy, I noticed that his fingernails and
toenails were painted black. Traditionally, the
use of the black dye from the saptur tree keeps
evil spirits away. Sometimes the women use
the same dye to paint designs on their faces.
| Kuna Wedding Ceremony The Kunas are a matrilineal society. All property passes down on the female side of the family. The bride picks her mate, informs her parents and the arrangements are made. Men friends “kidnap” the prospective groom and bring him to the bride’s hut where he must sit next to her on her hammock. If he escapes, they go after him and return him to her hammock once again. If he escapes a third time, the marriage is off. They must keep each other awake all night talking without touching. If either falls asleep, it’s a bad omen. In the morning, they are considered married. They are then allowed to slip away to a secluded spot to consummate the marriage. They live with the bride’s family. Divorce is simple. If he moves his stuff out, they’re divorced. If she throws his stuff outside the hut, they are divorced. |
| Kuna Puberty Ceremony for Girls The girl’s parents tell the chief it is time. Married men construct a special room within her hut of bamboo and she lives there alone for 4 days with ritual washing and bathing. A small trench is dug so that all the ritual bath water leaves the hut. Four married men are chosen to go to the mainland to get four fruits from a saptur tree. One man climbs the tree and chooses one fruit from the north, south, east and west, representing the four winds of the girl’s spirit. The fruits are returned from which a black dye is extracted and the girl is painted with the dye, which protects the virgin from evil spirits. The entire village is invited to the celebration. Much “chica” is drunk (alcoholic sugar cane drink) by the men and there’s lots of music (pan flutes and maracas). The girl’s hair is ritually cut by a special female person and her parents announce that she is now ready for marriage. This is the most important ceremony of a woman’s life. It is taboo to copy speeches or record anything said or done during the ceremony. This ceremony is never the subject of mola artwork. We were told subsequently that this is also when the girl get her nose pierced. |
| Kuna Death Ceremony When a Kuna dies, the body is washed and placed in a “gatchee” (hammock). Men are dressed in a white shirt and blue or black trouser, a black hat and shoes if they own them. Women are dressed in their best traditional mola costumes and all their jewelry. The body is wrapped in a white sheet with a cotton string dyed blue tied around it in the shape of a cross. This is used for directing the soul when crossing the sacred river Obigundiwal. Small ulus are placed with the body to help cross the river and a small bow and arrow are enclosed to help the soul defend itself against evil spirits on its journey. The body is usually kept in the home for 1-1/2 days…important people for 2 days. The body is moved to the cemetery where a deep hole is dug and the hammock is lowered into it and then covered with logs. The relatives and friends mourn and tell stories about the good things the person did in his/her life. Incense is burned throughout the ceremony. Prayers and chants are said daily for a year to insure safe passage across the river. |
Our next stop was Snug Harbor, so named by New
England schooners that stopped here for coconuts. It
is indeed snug, tucked in between the mainland and
several small islands. No villages here on the island of
Marmaraga…we enjoyed the peace and quiet and
explored on our own.
England schooners that stopped here for coconuts. It
is indeed snug, tucked in between the mainland and
several small islands. No villages here on the island of
Marmaraga…we enjoyed the peace and quiet and
explored on our own.
The flowers were the most impressive. Red
hibiscus blossoms the size of dinner plates
peeked out from the dense green foliage.
Pink morning glories lined the beach. The
beautiful white spider lily was a new one
for us, delicate looking and definitely exotic.
hibiscus blossoms the size of dinner plates
peeked out from the dense green foliage.
Pink morning glories lined the beach. The
beautiful white spider lily was a new one
for us, delicate looking and definitely exotic.
This little island has a long name: Orduptarboat. It
made for excellent beachcombing. The snorkeling
among the reefs surrounding the islands was superb
and David found huge sea biscuits ( below) for our
growing shell collection.
made for excellent beachcombing. The snorkeling
among the reefs surrounding the islands was superb
and David found huge sea biscuits ( below) for our
growing shell collection.
From CocoBanderas to the Eastern Hollandes Cays...a small group of islands popular
with cruisers. They are well protected by barrier reefs and the favorite anchor hole is a
place called “The Swimming Pool”. After having been the only boat for nearly a month,
having 6-8 boats around seemed odd. We even socialized a little! We went for drinks
one night aboard "Pogo", went to a trash-burning/pot luck hors d’oeuvres get together
another night and had the German folks from “Samana” (we met them back in
Cartagena) for drinks aboard Cups.
Our last anchorage in Kuna Yala was Chichime. Not unlike the others, it was nestled
between two small islands and a large barrier reef. The natives were friendly and
Marcie had her last opportunity to buy authentic molas and Kuna crafts. She took
advantage and the Kunas loved it. They arrived in two full ulus and had molas ready to
spread on the boat deck before the anchor was set. We kindly asked them to return
later which they did. Our collection grew by several molas, molitas, a fish bolsa, a
bracelet and a small, stylized “dragon fly” mola. Quite the haul!
with cruisers. They are well protected by barrier reefs and the favorite anchor hole is a
place called “The Swimming Pool”. After having been the only boat for nearly a month,
having 6-8 boats around seemed odd. We even socialized a little! We went for drinks
one night aboard "Pogo", went to a trash-burning/pot luck hors d’oeuvres get together
another night and had the German folks from “Samana” (we met them back in
Cartagena) for drinks aboard Cups.
Our last anchorage in Kuna Yala was Chichime. Not unlike the others, it was nestled
between two small islands and a large barrier reef. The natives were friendly and
Marcie had her last opportunity to buy authentic molas and Kuna crafts. She took
advantage and the Kunas loved it. They arrived in two full ulus and had molas ready to
spread on the boat deck before the anchor was set. We kindly asked them to return
later which they did. Our collection grew by several molas, molitas, a fish bolsa, a
bracelet and a small, stylized “dragon fly” mola. Quite the haul!
Thoughts on Kuna Yala…
|
From the San Blas, we head to Colon, Panama to prepare for
our Panama Canal Transit. Come with us as we visit Panama,
the crosswords of the world.
our Panama Canal Transit. Come with us as we visit Panama,
the crosswords of the world.