| s/v Nine of Cups Peru and Bolivia |
| Sep-Oct 2004 |
For five weeks in September/October
2004, we traveled from Ecuador,
mostly by bus, to Peru and Bolivia.
Both countries are rich and varied in
their indigenous history and cultures
which extend far beyond and before
the Incas
2004, we traveled from Ecuador,
mostly by bus, to Peru and Bolivia.
Both countries are rich and varied in
their indigenous history and cultures
which extend far beyond and before
the Incas
We took several tours. Chan
Chan (Sun Sun) was the capital
city of the Chimu Empire and
was built around 1300 AD. The
Chimu Empire existed from
about 1000-1470 AD and was
conquered by the Incas in about
1471, which puts them in the
same timeframe as the Aztecs of
Mexico. Chan Chan is
considered to be the largest mud
city in the world (dubious honor,
I think!!).
Chan (Sun Sun) was the capital
city of the Chimu Empire and
was built around 1300 AD. The
Chimu Empire existed from
about 1000-1470 AD and was
conquered by the Incas in about
1471, which puts them in the
same timeframe as the Aztecs of
Mexico. Chan Chan is
considered to be the largest mud
city in the world (dubious honor,
I think!!).
Huacas del Sol y del la Luna (Temples of
the Sun and Moon), built by the Moche,
was another pre-Columbian culture which
pre-dated the Chimu. They thrived from
about 100 BC to 700 AD (same as the
Mayans in Mexico) and are known for their
exquisite ceramics and pottery. The temple
of the Sun is a non-protected site (hard to
believe), but the Temple of the Moon has
been "adopted" by the Backus Corporation
which has financially sponsored the
archeological dig here for several years.
There are six levels- one level built upon
another by each successive king. The
painting on the walls was
extraordinary...original rich colors of red
and yellow with black and some blues and
greens, mostly depicting their gods and
animals they revered such as the condor,
jaguar, octopus, fox and owl.
the Sun and Moon), built by the Moche,
was another pre-Columbian culture which
pre-dated the Chimu. They thrived from
about 100 BC to 700 AD (same as the
Mayans in Mexico) and are known for their
exquisite ceramics and pottery. The temple
of the Sun is a non-protected site (hard to
believe), but the Temple of the Moon has
been "adopted" by the Backus Corporation
which has financially sponsored the
archeological dig here for several years.
There are six levels- one level built upon
another by each successive king. The
painting on the walls was
extraordinary...original rich colors of red
and yellow with black and some blues and
greens, mostly depicting their gods and
animals they revered such as the condor,
jaguar, octopus, fox and owl.
The small port town of Huanchaco is known
for its distinctive fishing boats made of the
local totora reeds. These boats, used by
local fishermen for centuries, are straddled
like a horse rather than sitting inside. Hence,
the boats are called "cabellitos" (little horses).
for its distinctive fishing boats made of the
local totora reeds. These boats, used by
local fishermen for centuries, are straddled
like a horse rather than sitting inside. Hence,
the boats are called "cabellitos" (little horses).
From Trujillo we took a bus to Lima, Peru's
capital city. Surrounded by the cathedral,
the Government Palace and the
Archbishop's Palace, the Plaza Mayor is
beautiful and spacious with lots of flowers
and a bronze fountain in the center dating to
1650.
capital city. Surrounded by the cathedral,
the Government Palace and the
Archbishop's Palace, the Plaza Mayor is
beautiful and spacious with lots of flowers
and a bronze fountain in the center dating to
1650.
In Lima, we met Gonzalo Ravago and his
wife, Magdala. An avid sailor, we had
"met" Gonzalo via email when he noticed
our "Passage Notes" in Cruising World
magazine and sent us a note. We had told
him we were coming and he had offered to
be our host in Lima. It was friendship at
first sight. They drove us around the city,
showed us Huaca Puc'llana, a temple of the
Lima culture, introduced us to Pisco Sours,
the national alcoholic drink, and took us to
their home for dinner. We drove with them
to the Nacional Reserva Paracas. We're
hoping they will visit us on Nine of Cups in
January 2005.
wife, Magdala. An avid sailor, we had
"met" Gonzalo via email when he noticed
our "Passage Notes" in Cruising World
magazine and sent us a note. We had told
him we were coming and he had offered to
be our host in Lima. It was friendship at
first sight. They drove us around the city,
showed us Huaca Puc'llana, a temple of the
Lima culture, introduced us to Pisco Sours,
the national alcoholic drink, and took us to
their home for dinner. We drove with them
to the Nacional Reserva Paracas. We're
hoping they will visit us on Nine of Cups in
January 2005.
Lima's San Francisco Monastery and its
famous catacombs were built in the mid
1600's. You could feel the age of the
place as you climbed the well-worn steps.
Descending to the catacombs beneath the
cathedral was very eerie as we ducked
under low ceilings and followed the guide
through the maze of corridors and rooms
to view the bones of the 70,000 (!!)
people buried here. The smell was musty
and dank, and my claustrophobia kicked in
immediately. I was disappointed at how
disrespectful the remains of those buried
there were treated. The bones had been
separated by type...skulls, femurs, ulnas,
etc...and displayed in clear,
plastic-covered boxes. There was a whole
circular display of skulls, for instance, all
available for photo-taking to those who
paid the price of admission
famous catacombs were built in the mid
1600's. You could feel the age of the
place as you climbed the well-worn steps.
Descending to the catacombs beneath the
cathedral was very eerie as we ducked
under low ceilings and followed the guide
through the maze of corridors and rooms
to view the bones of the 70,000 (!!)
people buried here. The smell was musty
and dank, and my claustrophobia kicked in
immediately. I was disappointed at how
disrespectful the remains of those buried
there were treated. The bones had been
separated by type...skulls, femurs, ulnas,
etc...and displayed in clear,
plastic-covered boxes. There was a whole
circular display of skulls, for instance, all
available for photo-taking to those who
paid the price of admission
From Pisco, on to Nasca and the famous
Nasca Lines. The Nasca Lines which date
back to 900BC, were discovered in the
1960s and are huge geometric and animal
figure designs drawn in the desert and
visible only from the air. There are several
dozen, but we saw about 15 of them from
our little 4-seater plane. No one knows
exactly why they were drawn or by whom,
but best guesses indicate the Nasca people
built them as part of a ceremonial tradition.
Other theories range from agricultural
calendars to UFOs. One of the lines
resembles an astronaut!
Nasca Lines. The Nasca Lines which date
back to 900BC, were discovered in the
1960s and are huge geometric and animal
figure designs drawn in the desert and
visible only from the air. There are several
dozen, but we saw about 15 of them from
our little 4-seater plane. No one knows
exactly why they were drawn or by whom,
but best guesses indicate the Nasca people
built them as part of a ceremonial tradition.
Other theories range from agricultural
calendars to UFOs. One of the lines
resembles an astronaut!
Arequipa was our favorite city in Peru. Here we
visited Juanita, the Ice Princess, a mummified
Incan girl who had been ritually sacrificed 500
years ago and discovered in 1995 in the Ampato
volcano. We took a sidetrip to Canon del Colca,
the Grand Canyon of Peru and home of Andean
condors. We wandered for hours in the
incredible Monasterio de Santa Catalina built in
1580 and generally enjoyed the beauty and
culture of this wonderful Spanish colonial town.
Here we also experienced the worst symptoms
of "soroche", altitude sickness, as we climbed
higher and higher into the Andes. To the left, the
monumental cathedral at Arequipa.
visited Juanita, the Ice Princess, a mummified
Incan girl who had been ritually sacrificed 500
years ago and discovered in 1995 in the Ampato
volcano. We took a sidetrip to Canon del Colca,
the Grand Canyon of Peru and home of Andean
condors. We wandered for hours in the
incredible Monasterio de Santa Catalina built in
1580 and generally enjoyed the beauty and
culture of this wonderful Spanish colonial town.
Here we also experienced the worst symptoms
of "soroche", altitude sickness, as we climbed
higher and higher into the Andes. To the left, the
monumental cathedral at Arequipa.
On the bus ride from Arequipa to
Puno, we spotted herds of alpaca,
llama and vicuna, grazing peacefully
on the pampas.
Puno, we spotted herds of alpaca,
llama and vicuna, grazing peacefully
on the pampas.
Peru is home to more indigenous
people than any other country in South
America. Their clothing, especially
their hats, is most distinctive and
distinguishes one group from another.
A young mother with her baby on her
back, posed for a picture after Marcie
bought some of her crafts.
people than any other country in South
America. Their clothing, especially
their hats, is most distinctive and
distinguishes one group from another.
A young mother with her baby on her
back, posed for a picture after Marcie
bought some of her crafts.
In Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca,
highest navigable lake in the world, we took a
boat tour to the island of Taquile. Here the
curious thing is that the men are always knitting
and the women are always spinning yarn
(photo above). Old men, young men and
boys all have knitting needles in hand and
make beautiful sweaters, scarves, hats and
other items including their wife's clothes. They
knit as they walk or as they sit and talk. The
woman spin with a drop shuttle , a device that
looks like a top. They hold it with their feet or
throw it like a top to the ground and spin the
alpaca and sheep's wool into yarn.
highest navigable lake in the world, we took a
boat tour to the island of Taquile. Here the
curious thing is that the men are always knitting
and the women are always spinning yarn
(photo above). Old men, young men and
boys all have knitting needles in hand and
make beautiful sweaters, scarves, hats and
other items including their wife's clothes. They
knit as they walk or as they sit and talk. The
woman spin with a drop shuttle , a device that
looks like a top. They hold it with their feet or
throw it like a top to the ground and spin the
alpaca and sheep's wool into yarn.
The floating islands of the Uros people(left)
were very unique. These islands are made
from layer upon layer of totora reed and are
totally free floating. As we stepped off the
boat, it was a weird, undulating sensation
beneath our feet, like walking on a waterbed.
were very unique. These islands are made
from layer upon layer of totora reed and are
totally free floating. As we stepped off the
boat, it was a weird, undulating sensation
beneath our feet, like walking on a waterbed.
The Uros make reed boats called balsas
similar to those we saw in Huanchaco on
the coast, but these are large enough to
ride in and hold up to 15-20 people. They
have beautiful woven puma or llama heads
on the bow and stern. We were
disappointed to learn, however, that the
Uros only began incorporating the
figureheads after a visit from Thor
Heyerdahl in the late 1950's when they saw
his reed raft decorated in that fashion.
similar to those we saw in Huanchaco on
the coast, but these are large enough to
ride in and hold up to 15-20 people. They
have beautiful woven puma or llama heads
on the bow and stern. We were
disappointed to learn, however, that the
Uros only began incorporating the
figureheads after a visit from Thor
Heyerdahl in the late 1950's when they saw
his reed raft decorated in that fashion.
On to LaPaz, Bolivia, the highest capital city
in the world. The city was fascinating, but
the highlight was visiting the Mercado de las
Brujas (the Witches' Market): two cobble
stoned streets lined with potions, powders,
charms, totems and talismans which included
llama fetuses, ocelot skins, armadillo bones
and dessicated frogs, guaranteed to bring
luck, love, money, or ward off evil spirits.
We'd never seen anything quite like it before.
Stall after stall after stall...all seemingly doing
a brisk business.
in the world. The city was fascinating, but
the highlight was visiting the Mercado de las
Brujas (the Witches' Market): two cobble
stoned streets lined with potions, powders,
charms, totems and talismans which included
llama fetuses, ocelot skins, armadillo bones
and dessicated frogs, guaranteed to bring
luck, love, money, or ward off evil spirits.
We'd never seen anything quite like it before.
Stall after stall after stall...all seemingly doing
a brisk business.
The highlight of our entire trip was Machu Picchu, an Incan sacred city high in the
Peruvian Andes. This view from a watch tower above the city was breathtaking. David
had done his homework. If we crossed the ruins to the far side, we would find the
trailhead up Huayna Picchu, the peak in the background of this picture and the perfect
spot to view Machu Picchu as the fog burned off in the early morning. From a distance,
Huayna Picchu looked ominous and very, very steep (which it was). We were the sixth
and seventh people to sign out with the "guard" and up we went. What a trek! Up, up,
up...steps, steps and more steps! The trail was well worn with thick, lush jungle
encroaching from the sides. We were in a cloud of mist and lost sight of the valley as we
climbed higher and higher. The trail was narrow, single file only, and some of the steepest
parts had cable or ropes to hang on to. One area required us to go into a cave, squeeze
through a narrow, low passage, trying not to get too muddy in the process, then finally in
a crouched position, wiggle our way up narrow steps out of the tunnel. Not for the weak
or the chubby! We stopped frequently to rest and catch our breath. With a last push, we
made it to the very top by just 0800...not too bad for old farts.
There were maybe a dozen people total when the fog finally burned off by about 0845.
Everyone was quiet or speaking so very softly, and there was a collective "ahhh" when
Machu Picchu first came into view far below. It was mystical, awesome, inspiring,
breathtaking beyond description. The fog would drift back, then, wisp by wisp, dissipate,
finally rendering a crystal clear Machu Picchu. It is a place of contemplation and
meditation. I write these notes as we sit atop Huayna Picchu and what I see is so
magnificent, so beautiful, it literally brings tears to my eyes.
We remained there for nearly two hours, taking it all in, desperate to remember every
detail and etch it into our minds. I took photo after photo, knowing I couldn't possibly
capture all the beauty and emotion I was experiencing, but trying nonetheless.
Peruvian Andes. This view from a watch tower above the city was breathtaking. David
had done his homework. If we crossed the ruins to the far side, we would find the
trailhead up Huayna Picchu, the peak in the background of this picture and the perfect
spot to view Machu Picchu as the fog burned off in the early morning. From a distance,
Huayna Picchu looked ominous and very, very steep (which it was). We were the sixth
and seventh people to sign out with the "guard" and up we went. What a trek! Up, up,
up...steps, steps and more steps! The trail was well worn with thick, lush jungle
encroaching from the sides. We were in a cloud of mist and lost sight of the valley as we
climbed higher and higher. The trail was narrow, single file only, and some of the steepest
parts had cable or ropes to hang on to. One area required us to go into a cave, squeeze
through a narrow, low passage, trying not to get too muddy in the process, then finally in
a crouched position, wiggle our way up narrow steps out of the tunnel. Not for the weak
or the chubby! We stopped frequently to rest and catch our breath. With a last push, we
made it to the very top by just 0800...not too bad for old farts.
There were maybe a dozen people total when the fog finally burned off by about 0845.
Everyone was quiet or speaking so very softly, and there was a collective "ahhh" when
Machu Picchu first came into view far below. It was mystical, awesome, inspiring,
breathtaking beyond description. The fog would drift back, then, wisp by wisp, dissipate,
finally rendering a crystal clear Machu Picchu. It is a place of contemplation and
meditation. I write these notes as we sit atop Huayna Picchu and what I see is so
magnificent, so beautiful, it literally brings tears to my eyes.
We remained there for nearly two hours, taking it all in, desperate to remember every
detail and etch it into our minds. I took photo after photo, knowing I couldn't possibly
capture all the beauty and emotion I was experiencing, but trying nonetheless.
Marcie and David high on Huayna Picchu just before the mist cleared to
reveal the lost city of Machu Picchu below. This was the dramatic
culmination of a trip of a lifetime!
reveal the lost city of Machu Picchu below. This was the dramatic
culmination of a trip of a lifetime!
| PERU |