| s/y Nine of Cups Tobago 2002 |
Sailing southeast from Grenada, Tobago is about
85 miles... an overnight beat against the wind
and current. We left St. George's about 1700
and arrived in Scarborough at about 1300 the
next day. Not a bad passage, but we've been
very spoiled by short dayhops between islands
for sure.
85 miles... an overnight beat against the wind
and current. We left St. George's about 1700
and arrived in Scarborough at about 1300 the
next day. Not a bad passage, but we've been
very spoiled by short dayhops between islands
for sure.
View of Nine of Cups in Courland Bay off
Plymouth, Tobago where several Carnival
events were taking place.
Plymouth, Tobago where several Carnival
events were taking place.
We were fortunate to be in Tobago during
the annual Heritage Festival. Though
everyone is welcome, the festival is for
Tobagonians rather than tourists. It is a
celebration of their rich history and cultural
traditions through storytelling, dance,
music and food.
the annual Heritage Festival. Though
everyone is welcome, the festival is for
Tobagonians rather than tourists. It is a
celebration of their rich history and cultural
traditions through storytelling, dance,
music and food.
| Tobago's Carnival is also held during the Heritage Festival. Although much smaller than the Trinidad Carnival, it maintains most of the same elements and different events were held in different villages on the island. Sometimes we took a bus and other times we moved the boat. |
Tobago has several species of bats. Here are
several fruit bats hanging from the rafters at
the Arnos Vale Waterwheel Park.
several fruit bats hanging from the rafters at
the Arnos Vale Waterwheel Park.
This Mot-Mot is one of the more brilliant
birds. Note the distinctive cutout on the
tail feathers.
birds. Note the distinctive cutout on the
tail feathers.
| Republic of Trinidad & Tobago Tobago & Trinidad joined as single entity -1888 Independence from Great Britain - 1962 |
| Trinidad Population: 1.3 million Area: 1,864 square miles Largest city/capital: Port-of-Spain Currency: Trinidad & Tobago $ or TT$; $1US = about 6TT$ Language: English Major industries: Petroleum, sugar and tourism Highest point: 3,085 ft. |
| Tobago (Ta-bay-go) Population: 50,000 Area: 116 square miles Largest city: Scarborough Currency: Trinidad & Tobago $ or TT$ ($1US = about 6TT$) Language: English Major industries: Agriculture, fishing and tourism Highest point: |
| Until about 11,000 years ago, Trinidad was part of South America and had been for over a million years. As a result, each island has its own flora and fauna...part from the South American continent and part from evolution of its own island species. |
| Trivia: Trinidad is the largest ammonia producer in the world. (Dubious honor, we think!). |
Tobago Immigration and Customs
clearance is in Scarborough so we
headed there to anchor. Immigration first
at the Ferry Dock. Several forms, all in
triplicate or quintuplicate, with old used
carbon paper between sheets. It takes
about ¾ hour to complete the paperwork
and get our passports stamped. No fees.
Then on to Customs at another location.
More waiting, more forms. We intend to
stay about 3 months in the area which is
approved and we pay $150TT…sounds
like a lot, but it’s only about $8/month!
Back to the boat to raise our Trinibago
(they used this word, I didn’t make it up)
courtesy flag.
clearance is in Scarborough so we
headed there to anchor. Immigration first
at the Ferry Dock. Several forms, all in
triplicate or quintuplicate, with old used
carbon paper between sheets. It takes
about ¾ hour to complete the paperwork
and get our passports stamped. No fees.
Then on to Customs at another location.
More waiting, more forms. We intend to
stay about 3 months in the area which is
approved and we pay $150TT…sounds
like a lot, but it’s only about $8/month!
Back to the boat to raise our Trinibago
(they used this word, I didn’t make it up)
courtesy flag.
There's a very small anchorage inside of a breakwater
which keeps out most of the roll. When we arrived,
there are only 3 other boats in the anchorage. Two
very large car ferries come in daily and turn around
right by the boat. The water churns, the boat rolls
and we can feel the vibration of the big engines. This
ferry is backing up and gets to within ~100’ away. It’
s entertainment for us with the caveat that we can
always jump overboard if it gets any closer!
which keeps out most of the roll. When we arrived,
there are only 3 other boats in the anchorage. Two
very large car ferries come in daily and turn around
right by the boat. The water churns, the boat rolls
and we can feel the vibration of the big engines. This
ferry is backing up and gets to within ~100’ away. It’
s entertainment for us with the caveat that we can
always jump overboard if it gets any closer!
Downtown Scarborough. That’s a KFC
right there on the left! There’s also a
Donut Boys, Pizza Boys and Roti Boys
further on up the street. In general,
however, this is not a cosmopolitan place.
Few gas stations, everything closes at
Saturday noon for the weekend. It’s a
small market town of 20,000 people,
nearly ½ the island’s population. The town
is divided into Lower Scarborough
(downtown) and
right there on the left! There’s also a
Donut Boys, Pizza Boys and Roti Boys
further on up the street. In general,
however, this is not a cosmopolitan place.
Few gas stations, everything closes at
Saturday noon for the weekend. It’s a
small market town of 20,000 people,
nearly ½ the island’s population. The town
is divided into Lower Scarborough
(downtown) and
The dink dock, though serviceable,
could have used a little service.
could have used a little service.
Tobago and Trinidad though
joined as one republic are very
different in nature. Tobago has
been owned and passed back
and forth between Holland,
France Spain, England and was
even part of the Duchy of
Courland (part of Latvia) for
awhile. It has a predominantly
African population because
indentured labor was not needed
from India as it was in Trinidad
for the cane fields. Where
Trinidad is very industrialized,
Tobago is primarily rural.
Chickens, goats, sheep and
cows wander along the streets
untethered. Life is slow and
uncomplicated.
joined as one republic are very
different in nature. Tobago has
been owned and passed back
and forth between Holland,
France Spain, England and was
even part of the Duchy of
Courland (part of Latvia) for
awhile. It has a predominantly
African population because
indentured labor was not needed
from India as it was in Trinidad
for the cane fields. Where
Trinidad is very industrialized,
Tobago is primarily rural.
Chickens, goats, sheep and
cows wander along the streets
untethered. Life is slow and
uncomplicated.
Shown above is the Ole Time Wedding, one
of the cultural ceremonies re-enacted for the
festival. The various items being carried
signify wealth, homemaking skills and fertility.
of the cultural ceremonies re-enacted for the
festival. The various items being carried
signify wealth, homemaking skills and fertility.
The local beer and my local man
waiting for a bus.
waiting for a bus.
The bridal procession wends its way through the
village streets.
village streets.
| Although joined as one republic, Trinidad and Tobago are very different in nature. Where Trinidad is very industrialized, Tobago is very rural. |
We were up early, early, early to take part in
the j'ouvert. J’Ouvert began around 5am…we
think. The fete from the night before never
ended so it was hard to tell when the morning
party began. All the locals were taking early
morning swims to wake up or sober up.
the j'ouvert. J’Ouvert began around 5am…we
think. The fete from the night before never
ended so it was hard to tell when the morning
party began. All the locals were taking early
morning swims to wake up or sober up.
Traditional garb for J’Ouvert (the working class
event though everyone joins in) is old ratty
clothes (the less the better, we’re told) and
painted bodies… red or blue paint, your choice!
Steel bands played all night through and we
could hear them from the boat...all night long!
event though everyone joins in) is old ratty
clothes (the less the better, we’re told) and
painted bodies… red or blue paint, your choice!
Steel bands played all night through and we
could hear them from the boat...all night long!
There are traditional characters in the Carnival
including the Fancy Indians above and the midnight
robber to the right .
including the Fancy Indians above and the midnight
robber to the right .
| Most of the Carnival traditions originated in medieval Europe and West Africa, imported by the early immigrants and their slaves. One of the favorite events for the whites was to imitate their black slaves and re-enact activities on the plantation. This was called the “canboulay” and the blacks joined in by mimicking their master’s way and dress. Carnival has its own vocabulary: Mas – short for “masquerade Band – themed groups of Carnival revelers J’Ouvert – French for “daybreak” is the opening event of the Carnival. Pan – steel band drums Fete - party |
Jambo Lassy – blue and red devils who
beg for money from the crowd. To the
right, David has just had his “pockets
picked clean” of change by these devils!
beg for money from the crowd. To the
right, David has just had his “pockets
picked clean” of change by these devils!
Midst the Carnival festivities, we also managed to
walk around this historic little town.Ft. James was
built in 1650 and active till 1811. The fort was
named after James, Duke of Courland, whose
settlers arrived here c.1650. Troops were
quartered in thatch huts nearby.
walk around this historic little town.Ft. James was
built in 1650 and active till 1811. The fort was
named after James, Duke of Courland, whose
settlers arrived here c.1650. Troops were
quartered in thatch huts nearby.
Paranods...working men can’t afford
elaborate costumes so they “chip” their
old clothes and wear them.
elaborate costumes so they “chip” their
old clothes and wear them.
Music is an integral part of Carnival and in the lives
of the Tobagonians in general. Everywhere we went,
music played… usually very loudly. We heard two
distinct types of music during Carnival (other than
folk tunes): Soca - this is the street “jump up” music;
easy beat, easy to dance to and Calypso – slow
paced, strong on lyrics and dating back to the 19th
century, evolving from West African songs of praise,
narrative, comment or derision. Above, a tambrin
drum competition.
of the Tobagonians in general. Everywhere we went,
music played… usually very loudly. We heard two
distinct types of music during Carnival (other than
folk tunes): Soca - this is the street “jump up” music;
easy beat, easy to dance to and Calypso – slow
paced, strong on lyrics and dating back to the 19th
century, evolving from West African songs of praise,
narrative, comment or derision. Above, a tambrin
drum competition.
Exhausted by all the Carnival activities, Jelly
went to bed with her costume on.
went to bed with her costume on.
Plymouth’s Mystery Tombstone is the 1783 grave of 23 year old Betty Stiven and her child.
The mysterious gravestone inscription reads:
“She was a Mother without knowing it and a Wife without letting her Husband know it except
by her kind indulgences to him.” Hmm...makes one ponder.
The mysterious gravestone inscription reads:
“She was a Mother without knowing it and a Wife without letting her Husband know it except
by her kind indulgences to him.” Hmm...makes one ponder.
We decided to take a long walk and
ended up at the Arnos Vale Waterwheel
Park, a nature preserve on the site of an
old sugar plantation. The original
waterwheel, about 20' high is intact and is
part of a lovely restaurant in the preserve.
ended up at the Arnos Vale Waterwheel
Park, a nature preserve on the site of an
old sugar plantation. The original
waterwheel, about 20' high is intact and is
part of a lovely restaurant in the preserve.
From the road, none of this is visible. We
walked along a thickly-forested path, past
an empty guard shack to the restaurant
entrance above. No cars in the car park, no
one around. We thought the place was
closed. But, the door was open so we went
in and what a surprise.
walked along a thickly-forested path, past
an empty guard shack to the restaurant
entrance above. No cars in the car park, no
one around. We thought the place was
closed. But, the door was open so we went
in and what a surprise.
Tiny white lights highlighted the wooden floors
and gracious foyer. Still no sign of life though.
We moved on past a little museum room and a
boutique, both closed. We saw tables in the
distance and finally a young man materialized out
of nowhere and greeted us as we walked through
a huge swarm of flying bats. “Only fruit bats”, he
said much too calmly, “Staying for lunch?”
Lunch was superb. An elegant setting midst the
rain forest highlighted by ginger lilies and
heliconia everywhere. The meal was a delight
topped off with homemade coconut ice cream.
and gracious foyer. Still no sign of life though.
We moved on past a little museum room and a
boutique, both closed. We saw tables in the
distance and finally a young man materialized out
of nowhere and greeted us as we walked through
a huge swarm of flying bats. “Only fruit bats”, he
said much too calmly, “Staying for lunch?”
Lunch was superb. An elegant setting midst the
rain forest highlighted by ginger lilies and
heliconia everywhere. The meal was a delight
topped off with homemade coconut ice cream.
David heads for the loo with a bat in close pursuit!
| Tobago Food specialities: Curried crab and dumplings is considered the “national dish” Doubles – curried chick peas with a dollop of mango kutcheela sandwiched between two fried baras (pancakes). Cost about less than $1US each from street vendors. Coconut tarts Channa – chick pea filling for rotis and doubles In general, restaurant food is tasty, plentiful and inexpensive. Lunch for two including a beer or sodas is about $36TT or $6US. |
| Read Marcie's article Bats and Fetes in Tobago |
As always, there was more to see and do, but
the clock was ticking. We wanted to move on
to Trinidad and get settled in the marina and
begin boat maintenance/repairs and projects.
the clock was ticking. We wanted to move on
to Trinidad and get settled in the marina and
begin boat maintenance/repairs and projects.
This view of Tobago will stay with us for a long,
long time.
long time.