| s/y Nine of Cups More Tonga October 2009 |
| Hunga, Vava'u 18S41.56 /174W07.75 |
We left Matamaka for a couple of days to
attend a birthday party for a friend at
Hunga. The chartplotter was a bit off from
actuality as you can see. Our waypoints
were good, but you'd never know it!
attend a birthday party for a friend at
Hunga. The chartplotter was a bit off from
actuality as you can see. Our waypoints
were good, but you'd never know it!
The entrance to Hunga was literally between the
proverbial "rock (to port) and a hard place (reef to
starboard). It was also rather shallow (10') for our
7' draft, but we made it without difficulty.
proverbial "rock (to port) and a hard place (reef to
starboard). It was also rather shallow (10') for our
7' draft, but we made it without difficulty.
We went to a small beach to celebrate the
birthday girl with a champagne toast.
Overhead, "flying fox" or pekas (fruit bats)
were flying about.
birthday girl with a champagne toast.
Overhead, "flying fox" or pekas (fruit bats)
were flying about.
At sunset, Vala came to check on us in his
outrigger canoe. An elder of the nearby
village, he was making sure we were staying
out of trouble and once he was assured, he
was all smiles and friendliness.
outrigger canoe. An elder of the nearby
village, he was making sure we were staying
out of trouble and once he was assured, he
was all smiles and friendliness.
Claire (far left) of Manaroa 3, aka the birthday girl,
watches as her daughters, Kathryn and Anita light the
candles on her cake.
watches as her daughters, Kathryn and Anita light the
candles on her cake.
Graham of Red Herring was also
celebrating a birthday and had no qualms
about trying on his new coconut bra.
celebrating a birthday and had no qualms
about trying on his new coconut bra.
| Nukunamo Island, Hapa'ai - 19S42.71 / 174W17.01 |
Though we would have liked
to stay longer in Tonga's
Vava'u Group, we felt it was
time to start making our way
south. We only had a few
days to spend in the Hapa'ai
Group, but wanted to make
the most of them. These
islands are low-lying, sandy
and offer good beachcoming
and shelling. We found out
later that this island is owned
by Big Mama's sister-in-law
... a gift from the King.
to stay longer in Tonga's
Vava'u Group, we felt it was
time to start making our way
south. We only had a few
days to spend in the Hapa'ai
Group, but wanted to make
the most of them. These
islands are low-lying, sandy
and offer good beachcoming
and shelling. We found out
later that this island is owned
by Big Mama's sister-in-law
... a gift from the King.
Nukunamo offered a sweeping beach on one side and reef on the other. A good walk and good collecting.
The center of the island was thick with palms
and huge banyan trees, mostly impenetrable.
and huge banyan trees, mostly impenetrable.
Creepers crawled out from the thick forested
areas trying to take over the sandy beach.
areas trying to take over the sandy beach.
A golden Pacific plover posed nicely for
the camera.
the camera.
Tofanga was about 20 miles away...a leisurely
motor-sail in light winds. It was such a narrow
island that in a couple of steps you could walk
from one side of the island to the other. Huge sand
spits formed at low tide and part of the shore had
hardened into sandstone.
motor-sail in light winds. It was such a narrow
island that in a couple of steps you could walk
from one side of the island to the other. Huge sand
spits formed at low tide and part of the shore had
hardened into sandstone.
| Tofanga Island, Hapa'ai - 19S57.45 / 174W28.35 |
Lesser crested sea terns greeted us on the
beach at our arrival.
beach at our arrival.
| Panagaimotu Island / Nuku'alofa- 21S07.51 / 175W09.82 |
Once again, urged on by a "schedule"
(rather a dirty word to cruisers), we
continued our southward trek to
Nuku'alofa...Tonga's capital city.
We anchored off Big Mama's Yacht
Club at Pangaimotu, a nearby island.
Since we were checking in only from
Vava'u, we didn't need to bring the boat
into the Customs Dock. Big Mama's
offers a ferry service back and forth
across the bay to Nuku. We arrived late
Saturday, so check-in did not occur till
Monday morning.
(rather a dirty word to cruisers), we
continued our southward trek to
Nuku'alofa...Tonga's capital city.
We anchored off Big Mama's Yacht
Club at Pangaimotu, a nearby island.
Since we were checking in only from
Vava'u, we didn't need to bring the boat
into the Customs Dock. Big Mama's
offers a ferry service back and forth
across the bay to Nuku. We arrived late
Saturday, so check-in did not occur till
Monday morning.
| Tonga is one of the few countries in the world today without a McDonalds! Hooray! |
Big Mama's Yacht Club owned by Ana & Earl
Emberson is a laid-back, South Pacific sort of place
with a great ambiance including fresh hibiscus on the
tables, hanging hands of bananas and beach sand
covered floors. A great place to kick back and relax.
Emberson is a laid-back, South Pacific sort of place
with a great ambiance including fresh hibiscus on the
tables, hanging hands of bananas and beach sand
covered floors. A great place to kick back and relax.
Just off Big Mama's in the anchorage is the wreck
of a freighter, My Lady Lata II, lost during a
hurricane years ago. It's a popular place for diving
and snorkeling.
of a freighter, My Lady Lata II, lost during a
hurricane years ago. It's a popular place for diving
and snorkeling.
| Tongatapu translates to sacred south. Nuku'alofa means abode of love. Nuku'alofa is the seat of government and home of the royal family. |
Getting duty-free diesel at the fuel dock in
Nuku'alofa proved to be easier than anticipated
because the folks at Big Mama's arranged for a
huge BP fuel truck and called boats in turn for
bunkering.
Nuku'alofa proved to be easier than anticipated
because the folks at Big Mama's arranged for a
huge BP fuel truck and called boats in turn for
bunkering.
Small fruit and veggie stands lined the street
opposite the Nuku'alofa dock. The produce was
wonderful and inexpensive. Small, sweet
pineapples and watermelons were just coming
into season and we stocked up.
opposite the Nuku'alofa dock. The produce was
wonderful and inexpensive. Small, sweet
pineapples and watermelons were just coming
into season and we stocked up.
The Talamahu Market is a two-story affair
and supposedly the largest in the Kingdom.
It's crammed full of crafts, fresh veggies and
fruits on the inside and flea market-type goods
all around the perimeter outside.
and supposedly the largest in the Kingdom.
It's crammed full of crafts, fresh veggies and
fruits on the inside and flea market-type goods
all around the perimeter outside.
Pandanus drying at the Talamahu Market.
Taufa'ahau Road sports most of the touristy
shops, information kiosks and cafes.
shops, information kiosks and cafes.
The flying buttresses of the Free Church of
Tonga...one many churches in downtown Nuku'alofa.
Tonga...one many churches in downtown Nuku'alofa.
SSCA friends, Nancy & Burger on
"Halekai" introduced us via e-mail to an
ex-Peace Corps friend, Mary McCoy,
who lives in Nuku'alofa. When we said
we were in town, Mary went out of her
way to give us more information about
Nuku'alofa and Tonga. Above, she
models her waistmat, ta'ovala.
"Halekai" introduced us via e-mail to an
ex-Peace Corps friend, Mary McCoy,
who lives in Nuku'alofa. When we said
we were in town, Mary went out of her
way to give us more information about
Nuku'alofa and Tonga. Above, she
models her waistmat, ta'ovala.
After lunch, we felt like old friends. Mary
still lived in her Peace Corps Tongan hut,
but had made several upgrades. One thing
that bothered her, however was the fact
that the water pump for her running water
had to be plugged and unplugged in the
building next door. What a hassle! David
promised to make it a bit easier for her.
still lived in her Peace Corps Tongan hut,
but had made several upgrades. One thing
that bothered her, however was the fact
that the water pump for her running water
had to be plugged and unplugged in the
building next door. What a hassle! David
promised to make it a bit easier for her.
We met Mary at the dinghy dock in Nuku'alofa the next
morning. Before beginning work, she fixed us blueberry
waffles with real maple syrup at her home, then , we
headed out to the local hardware store and David bought
the parts necessary for the job. He had to run wire from
one building to the next, through the rafters in Mary's
house and then into Mary's kitchen and then hook up the
wiring on both ends to switches and outlets. No ladder
available, David was up on top of chairs, tables, chairs on
top of tables, inside, outside, up, down...but at last,
success and Mary pushed the switch and voila...water
from her kitchen tap. She was elated. We were thrilled.
morning. Before beginning work, she fixed us blueberry
waffles with real maple syrup at her home, then , we
headed out to the local hardware store and David bought
the parts necessary for the job. He had to run wire from
one building to the next, through the rafters in Mary's
house and then into Mary's kitchen and then hook up the
wiring on both ends to switches and outlets. No ladder
available, David was up on top of chairs, tables, chairs on
top of tables, inside, outside, up, down...but at last,
success and Mary pushed the switch and voila...water
from her kitchen tap. She was elated. We were thrilled.
She presented us with an
autographed copy of her book,
Making Sense of Tonga (which we
intended to buy, so a double
pleasure). She and her Tongan
business partner, Drew, were
presenting a session on the role of
"rank" in Tongan hierarchical society
and invited us to stay. It was well
done and explained a lot of what we
had already seen and experienced,
but hadn't understood. In fact, we'd
recommend it as an easy, informative
read if you plan to visit Tonga.
ISBN 978-982-98001-2-1
autographed copy of her book,
Making Sense of Tonga (which we
intended to buy, so a double
pleasure). She and her Tongan
business partner, Drew, were
presenting a session on the role of
"rank" in Tongan hierarchical society
and invited us to stay. It was well
done and explained a lot of what we
had already seen and experienced,
but hadn't understood. In fact, we'd
recommend it as an easy, informative
read if you plan to visit Tonga.
ISBN 978-982-98001-2-1
One thing we learned: Tongans are never direct. The sign
above literally says: "Don't eat curry"; what it means...don't
litter here. Tongans eat their curry in takeaway containers
and are prone to discarding the containers on the ground.
Thanks, Mary, for this little nugget of knowledge.
above literally says: "Don't eat curry"; what it means...don't
litter here. Tongans eat their curry in takeaway containers
and are prone to discarding the containers on the ground.
Thanks, Mary, for this little nugget of knowledge.
The Royal Tombs (near the curry sign)
| We bid Mary adieu and promised to see her next time we visited Tonga. We picked up fresh veggies/fruit along the way and headed back to Cups for the much advertised Big Mama's End of Season Cruiser's Party. |
What a thrill! Big Mama made Betsy "Qayak" who was
celebrating her birthday and me her guests of honor.
celebrating her birthday and me her guests of honor.
As the sun was setting, Big Mama wanted a photo
of the whole gang. It was like herding cats, but we
finally managed to get everyone in place and our
designated photographer, Dietmar on "Carinthia"
had to get his feet wet to get us all in.
of the whole gang. It was like herding cats, but we
finally managed to get everyone in place and our
designated photographer, Dietmar on "Carinthia"
had to get his feet wet to get us all in.
Ana spared no expense on the party. As
her guests of honor, she had special
dresses made for us in a Tongan print.
We waited patiently as we were
"dressed" with our ta'ovala and ornate
kei keis, an even bigger honor as they
were from Ana's family and used only
for special occasions.
In total there were over 40 boats
represented and over 100 people. What
a party! She had generously invited "all
sailboats in the Kingdom of Tonga" to be
her guests for the evening and she got a
pretty good turnout. Her final parting gift
to every yacht...a woven palm basket
with fresh fruits and veggies for the trip
to New Zealand. Wow!
her guests of honor, she had special
dresses made for us in a Tongan print.
We waited patiently as we were
"dressed" with our ta'ovala and ornate
kei keis, an even bigger honor as they
were from Ana's family and used only
for special occasions.
In total there were over 40 boats
represented and over 100 people. What
a party! She had generously invited "all
sailboats in the Kingdom of Tonga" to be
her guests for the evening and she got a
pretty good turnout. Her final parting gift
to every yacht...a woven palm basket
with fresh fruits and veggies for the trip
to New Zealand. Wow!
We felt like royalty as we sat on "thrones" covered
with enormous pieces of tapa. It was almost
overwhelming. Here we sat for the evening, our
food brought to us and chatting with Big Mama.
with enormous pieces of tapa. It was almost
overwhelming. Here we sat for the evening, our
food brought to us and chatting with Big Mama.
Ana's husband, Papa Earl, doesn't get too
much publicity, but he's always there behind
the scenes making sure everything is just right.
much publicity, but he's always there behind
the scenes making sure everything is just right.
The feast was laid out on an outrigger and defies
description. There were roast pigs, Tongan
veggies and specialties, salads. Earl urged
everyone to eat as much as they possibly could
...Faka Tonga (the Tongan way).
description. There were roast pigs, Tongan
veggies and specialties, salads. Earl urged
everyone to eat as much as they possibly could
...Faka Tonga (the Tongan way).
With a live band and after lots to eat and
plenty to drink, the dancing fever took over.
plenty to drink, the dancing fever took over.
Even the little ones were dancing and stayed
up, oh so late, to enjoy the fun.
up, oh so late, to enjoy the fun.
The next day was Hallowe'en and it was a
pretty quiet day in the anchorage except for the
trick-or-treaters.
pretty quiet day in the anchorage except for the
trick-or-treaters.
| Sadly, it was time to leave Tonga. Our weather window appeared and we needed to take advantage of it. We left Tonga on 1 November, headed to Opua, New Zealand. This would end our crossing of the Pacific and our cruising season for 2009. Having planned for it for so long, it seemed almost unreal that it was over so quickly. Come with us to New Zealand by clicking on the waving NZ flag below. |
