In addition to an extensive coastline, Venezuela has 72 islands in the
Caribbean...most accessible only by boat. Though each island and
island group shared many traits, each had a personality all its own
which we endeavored to discover and explore. We spent 1-1/2
months in the islands before ever heading to Puerto la Cruz and the
mainland. Without exception, we found the islands a delight. The few
inhabitants were friendly and courteous. The politics of the mainland
were never evident in these outlying areas and even the cosmopolitan
island of Margarita showed little evidence of the political unrest
endemic elsewhere in Venezuela.
We left Chaguaramas, Trinidad around 1530 for the 95-mile sail to
Los Testigos. Our informal entrance to Venezuela and South
America was made on 16 October 2002. The 16-hour journey was a
sailing delight…a broad reach northwest then a jibe southeast on a
port beam reach directly to the anchorage…it doesn’t get much
better. We had a northwest current helping us and we clocked 8-9
knots consistently on the GPS.
Caribbean...most accessible only by boat. Though each island and
island group shared many traits, each had a personality all its own
which we endeavored to discover and explore. We spent 1-1/2
months in the islands before ever heading to Puerto la Cruz and the
mainland. Without exception, we found the islands a delight. The few
inhabitants were friendly and courteous. The politics of the mainland
were never evident in these outlying areas and even the cosmopolitan
island of Margarita showed little evidence of the political unrest
endemic elsewhere in Venezuela.
We left Chaguaramas, Trinidad around 1530 for the 95-mile sail to
Los Testigos. Our informal entrance to Venezuela and South
America was made on 16 October 2002. The 16-hour journey was a
sailing delight…a broad reach northwest then a jibe southeast on a
port beam reach directly to the anchorage…it doesn’t get much
better. We had a northwest current helping us and we clocked 8-9
knots consistently on the GPS.
Los Testigos - The anchorage is cool and calm.
The climate is dry and the breeze is constantThe
snorkeling is excellent and there are huge sand
dunes to climb. This view of Nine of Cups is
taken from the top of the sand dune.
The climate is dry and the breeze is constantThe
snorkeling is excellent and there are huge sand
dunes to climb. This view of Nine of Cups is
taken from the top of the sand dune.
Along with 4 other cruising boat couples (Tu Salen,
Paramour, Negotiator, Avalon & Nine of Cups), we
took a day long guided tour of Isla Margarita. The tour
included forts, castles, scenic vistas, history and legends.
Paramour, Negotiator, Avalon & Nine of Cups), we
took a day long guided tour of Isla Margarita. The tour
included forts, castles, scenic vistas, history and legends.
Picture in your mind a beautiful, mostly
deserted Caribbean island with palm trees
swaying and white sandy beaches... you´ve
just conjured up Blanquilla. The cruising
guide showed an anchorage on the west end
... near the two palms. Sure enough, here it is.
deserted Caribbean island with palm trees
swaying and white sandy beaches... you´ve
just conjured up Blanquilla. The cruising
guide showed an anchorage on the west end
... near the two palms. Sure enough, here it is.
Our meeting with the local "abuela" and lots
of kids highlighted our visit ashore at
isolated Cubagua. The kids met our dinghy
and "helped" us beach it. We gave them
powdered milk and some popcorn and
school supplies. In exchange,the kids gave
us some very fine shells and their mom
gave us some fish for dinner.
of kids highlighted our visit ashore at
isolated Cubagua. The kids met our dinghy
and "helped" us beach it. We gave them
powdered milk and some popcorn and
school supplies. In exchange,the kids gave
us some very fine shells and their mom
gave us some fish for dinner.
The Gulfo de Cariaco (Kahr-ree-AH-Ko) is
35 miles long and never more than 8 miles
wide. It is bordered on the north by the red
clay hills of Peninsula de Araya and to the
south and east by mainland Venezuela. Both
sides of the gulf offer spectacular scenery and
wonderful anchorages.
35 miles long and never more than 8 miles
wide. It is bordered on the north by the red
clay hills of Peninsula de Araya and to the
south and east by mainland Venezuela. Both
sides of the gulf offer spectacular scenery and
wonderful anchorages.
Laguna Grande is an almost surreal setting. The anchorage is surrounded on three sides by red
mountains that rise rather steeply from the water to about 600 feet. We climbed to the top of one
and oh, the views were spectacular. Laguna Grande is quite large and there are several little bays
and islands... all of which were visible from the top of the hill. The climb was somewhat arduous...
somewhat steep and lots of shale and cactus to keep your attention. We stopped frequently
ostensibly to take pictures, but I was catching my breath if you really want to know the truth!
mountains that rise rather steeply from the water to about 600 feet. We climbed to the top of one
and oh, the views were spectacular. Laguna Grande is quite large and there are several little bays
and islands... all of which were visible from the top of the hill. The climb was somewhat arduous...
somewhat steep and lots of shale and cactus to keep your attention. We stopped frequently
ostensibly to take pictures, but I was catching my breath if you really want to know the truth!
| s/y Nine of Cups Venezuela's Out-Islands 2002 |
| Los Testigos |
| Los Testigos (the Witnesses) are a small island group consisting of about 5 main islands and several other little ones. |
Our informal entry to Venezuela and
South America were the Los
Testigos, about 90 miles from
Trindad. Check-in is on Isla Iguana
Grande and is a fishing village of
about 160 inhabitants with a small
school and church and a
Guardacosta (Coast Guard) station.
Checking in with the Guardacosta
was painless and efficient. The
Capitan’s wife, Estrella, and 7-month
old son, David, were very friendly
and I got to hold not only the baby,
but my first full-fledged conversation
with a local in Spanish…I
understood about every fifth word,
but you have to start somewhere!
South America were the Los
Testigos, about 90 miles from
Trindad. Check-in is on Isla Iguana
Grande and is a fishing village of
about 160 inhabitants with a small
school and church and a
Guardacosta (Coast Guard) station.
Checking in with the Guardacosta
was painless and efficient. The
Capitan’s wife, Estrella, and 7-month
old son, David, were very friendly
and I got to hold not only the baby,
but my first full-fledged conversation
with a local in Spanish…I
understood about every fifth word,
but you have to start somewhere!
The beach area along Isla Iguana is
beautiful. The Guardacostas station is
located on a hill behind the beach.
Fishing boats abound and the local folk
were friendly.
beautiful. The Guardacostas station is
located on a hill behind the beach.
Fishing boats abound and the local folk
were friendly.
The islands are arid and cacti thrive. A
white cross high on the hill on Isla
Iguana could be seen on our approach
from sea. True to its name, there are
lots of iguanas here…all sizes and
colors and to our surprise, they were in
the trees and jumped down when
startled. But then, who startled whom?
white cross high on the hill on Isla
Iguana could be seen on our approach
from sea. True to its name, there are
lots of iguanas here…all sizes and
colors and to our surprise, they were in
the trees and jumped down when
startled. But then, who startled whom?
We moved from the anchorage near Isla Iguana across to
Balandra Bay off Testigo Grande island to have closer
access to the sand dunes and the lighthouse. Because the
heat is so intense in the afternoon, we left for the dunes at
0700. The climb was very steep, made more challenging by
the soft, deep sand…good exercise for the legs and calf
muscles! The view from the top was terrific. There were
lots of iguana tracks, but no large iguanas were sited. There
were lots of cacti, which David insists jumped out at him
and clung to clothes and skin as he passed (muy Ouch!).
Balandra Bay off Testigo Grande island to have closer
access to the sand dunes and the lighthouse. Because the
heat is so intense in the afternoon, we left for the dunes at
0700. The climb was very steep, made more challenging by
the soft, deep sand…good exercise for the legs and calf
muscles! The view from the top was terrific. There were
lots of iguana tracks, but no large iguanas were sited. There
were lots of cacti, which David insists jumped out at him
and clung to clothes and skin as he passed (muy Ouch!).
The sand dunes (dunas de arena) were
a short dinghy ride away and a long,
hot, steep, sandy climb up. The view,
however, was stupendous.
a short dinghy ride away and a long,
hot, steep, sandy climb up. The view,
however, was stupendous.
One day was spent helping out the locals. A fishing boat
with a broken engine starting drifting and ended up nearly
hitting us. David and another cruiser got into the dinghies and
towed them to safe area to re-anchor. Catastrophe averted.
Another fishing boat stopped by to see if we had any hose
clamps which we did and gave to them. They promptly went
to the first boat and helped to repair the hose problem it had
and got it running again. We ended up with a freshly cleaned
red snapper just in time for dinner and some new friends.
with a broken engine starting drifting and ended up nearly
hitting us. David and another cruiser got into the dinghies and
towed them to safe area to re-anchor. Catastrophe averted.
Another fishing boat stopped by to see if we had any hose
clamps which we did and gave to them. They promptly went
to the first boat and helped to repair the hose problem it had
and got it running again. We ended up with a freshly cleaned
red snapper just in time for dinner and some new friends.
The sky has been bright and full of stars
each night. Orion shines brightly now
and is easily distinguished from all the
rest. The full moon was brilliant and
provided a “moonpath” from the shore
to our bow.
each night. Orion shines brightly now
and is easily distinguished from all the
rest. The full moon was brilliant and
provided a “moonpath” from the shore
to our bow.
| What a delightful respite this has been. No stores, not too many people, no “traffic” of any sort other than an occasional fishing boat. But after 5 days, it’s time to leave. We make ready the night before for an early start to Porlamar, Isla de Margarita tomorrow morning. We anticipate the 50-mile daysail will take us about 9-10 hours depending on the winds so we should be in Porlamar before nightfall tomorrow night. |
| Isla Margarita |
The view from offshore demonstrates the cosmopolitan nature
of Porlamar. It’s a city of ~170,000 people…largest on the
island…very modern with high-rise buildings, luxury hotels
(many of which are deserted) and classy gambling casinos.
of Porlamar. It’s a city of ~170,000 people…largest on the
island…very modern with high-rise buildings, luxury hotels
(many of which are deserted) and classy gambling casinos.
| Though we usually refer to this country as simply “Venezuela”, the actual name is La Republicana Bolivariana de Venezuela…the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela…after their Father of Independence, Simon Bolivar. |
Venezuelan fishing boats called
“pañeros” (pan-yer-os) are very unique
in their look and design.
“pañeros” (pan-yer-os) are very unique
in their look and design.
| Nautical trivia… Why did sailors traditionally wear a gold earring? Because it was the law that each man always had enough money to have himself buried. The gold earring always insured he had the required sum on him if he were drowned and washed ashore…the locals wouldn’t have to bear the expense of burying him. |
Juan's Marina, where Juan pretty much runs the harbor
as far as the cruisers are concerned, is a central meeting
place on the dock. Juan has found his niche among the
seafaring crowd and is the independent agent for
clearing Venezuelan customs and immigration. He’s
multi-lingual (Spanish, English, French and a smattering
of others, too!). Additionally, he offers two computers
with Internet service, postcards, stamps, laundry, a
book swap, tour service, garbage disposal and water as
well as trips to the local grocery store and all the
information you need or want to know about Porlamar
and Isla de Margarita.
as far as the cruisers are concerned, is a central meeting
place on the dock. Juan has found his niche among the
seafaring crowd and is the independent agent for
clearing Venezuelan customs and immigration. He’s
multi-lingual (Spanish, English, French and a smattering
of others, too!). Additionally, he offers two computers
with Internet service, postcards, stamps, laundry, a
book swap, tour service, garbage disposal and water as
well as trips to the local grocery store and all the
information you need or want to know about Porlamar
and Isla de Margarita.
Juan has a rather large dinghy dock (hence the name
“marina”), but he doesn’t accommodate anything
larger than a dinghy.
“marina”), but he doesn’t accommodate anything
larger than a dinghy.
Isla de Margarita is the biggest and most important of Venezuela’s offshore
islands. It is a popular recreation destination not only cruisers, but for
Venezuelans as well as it is not only beautiful but a duty-free port. Originally,
the area was called the Pearl Coast because of its rich pearl beds. The
Spanish arrived as early as 1537 and enslaved the local Indians to work and
dive for pearls, thus eliminating the need for African slaves.
islands. It is a popular recreation destination not only cruisers, but for
Venezuelans as well as it is not only beautiful but a duty-free port. Originally,
the area was called the Pearl Coast because of its rich pearl beds. The
Spanish arrived as early as 1537 and enslaved the local Indians to work and
dive for pearls, thus eliminating the need for African slaves.
On one of our forays foraging for food, we came upon a small restaurant on the beach
side of the road. The fish looked great...swimming in a tub waiting to be "invited" for
lunch. We had “pargo plancho” (grilled whole red snapper) along with a small salad and
tostones (fried plantain). Cold beers with the meal made it perfect and the owner treated
us to another round of beers “for the house”. Above you can see, David left "nothing but
the bones". The ocean was so close that our toes got wet on occasion as the odd wave
came a little too close. The meal took about 2 hours from start to finish, and will remains
one of our great memories.
side of the road. The fish looked great...swimming in a tub waiting to be "invited" for
lunch. We had “pargo plancho” (grilled whole red snapper) along with a small salad and
tostones (fried plantain). Cold beers with the meal made it perfect and the owner treated
us to another round of beers “for the house”. Above you can see, David left "nothing but
the bones". The ocean was so close that our toes got wet on occasion as the odd wave
came a little too close. The meal took about 2 hours from start to finish, and will remains
one of our great memories.
One of the highlights was a visit to El Valle del
Espiritu Sancto held both historical and
legendary significance It seems that a statue
of the Virgin Mary was carved out of wood
and painted in Spain in the late 1490´s and
brought to Isla Cubagua (an island not far
from Margarita) in about 1510. In 1541 a
huge earthquake and tidal wave hit the island
and all was lost. A year later, the Virgin was
found floating, totally undamaged by
earthquake, tidal wave or a year in the water,
and this they considered a miracle. She was
brought to Isla Margarita where she is kept to
this day in a basilica. We did get a kick out of
the cart upon cart of "Virgins" for sale in the
plaza outside the church. No irreverence
intended.
Espiritu Sancto held both historical and
legendary significance It seems that a statue
of the Virgin Mary was carved out of wood
and painted in Spain in the late 1490´s and
brought to Isla Cubagua (an island not far
from Margarita) in about 1510. In 1541 a
huge earthquake and tidal wave hit the island
and all was lost. A year later, the Virgin was
found floating, totally undamaged by
earthquake, tidal wave or a year in the water,
and this they considered a miracle. She was
brought to Isla Margarita where she is kept to
this day in a basilica. We did get a kick out of
the cart upon cart of "Virgins" for sale in the
plaza outside the church. No irreverence
intended.
| View of Pampatar from Fortin de Coranta (1595-1626). |
Scenic views were plentiful and from the vantage
points of forts and high plateaus, we got some
splendid photos. Above, the beach at Juan Griego.
points of forts and high plateaus, we got some
splendid photos. Above, the beach at Juan Griego.
| Blanquilla |
| The two local beers in Venezuela are both a Pilsner-type and quite good: Polar (POE-lahr) and Brahma |
| Trivia...Opposite sides of a die always add up to 7. (This knowledge comes from playing too much Yahtzee). |
Juxtaposed with the opulence of Porlamar and its
resorts are these 400 year old adobe houses in
the national park area of central Margarita. Still
occupied by descendants of the original owners,
most have mud floors and minimal modern day
conveniences.
resorts are these 400 year old adobe houses in
the national park area of central Margarita. Still
occupied by descendants of the original owners,
most have mud floors and minimal modern day
conveniences.
Castillo de Santa Rosa, built in the 1700s, was
complete with moat and drawbridge. Note the
same Spanish style sentry boxes as we saw in
Santo Domingo, DR and San Juan, Puerto Rico.
complete with moat and drawbridge. Note the
same Spanish style sentry boxes as we saw in
Santo Domingo, DR and San Juan, Puerto Rico.
About 50 miles north of Margarita, the 6x5 mile
island is flat, low lying and very desolate...
populated only by a Guardacosta station, and a
few fishermen, wild donkeys, iguanas and cacti.
island is flat, low lying and very desolate...
populated only by a Guardacosta station, and a
few fishermen, wild donkeys, iguanas and cacti.
A typical “fish camp” located on the beach near
our anchorage. There were about 5 fishermen
who come out here to fish and return to the
mainland every so often. The structure is
basically a lean-to with thatch roof and
hammocks for sleeping.
our anchorage. There were about 5 fishermen
who come out here to fish and return to the
mainland every so often. The structure is
basically a lean-to with thatch roof and
hammocks for sleeping.
This natural arch bridge is located at Americano Bay so named by the locals for the eccentric American
who came here decades ago, built a house and visited from time to time via his airplane which he landed
on a flat spot next to the house. The house is abandoned now.
who came here decades ago, built a house and visited from time to time via his airplane which he landed
on a flat spot next to the house. The house is abandoned now.
This young iguana was about 2 feet long. We
also saw wild donkeys and several species
of birds during our exploration of the island.
also saw wild donkeys and several species
of birds during our exploration of the island.
In the late 1970’s, a car ferry caught fire and
was run aground off the north point of the
island. It is now known as a good
snorkeling and dive spot and a chic hangout
for the local pelicans.
was run aground off the north point of the
island. It is now known as a good
snorkeling and dive spot and a chic hangout
for the local pelicans.
| Cubagua |
In 5 days at anchor at Isla Cubagua, we managed only
one day ashore and no snorkeling due to consistently
high winds (20-25k) and laziness. The island is low-
lying and beautiful. We anchored in 10’ of water and
could see the small fishing village ashore, the
lighthouse and the wreck off the northern point.
one day ashore and no snorkeling due to consistently
high winds (20-25k) and laziness. The island is low-
lying and beautiful. We anchored in 10’ of water and
could see the small fishing village ashore, the
lighthouse and the wreck off the northern point.
| On to the Mainland After over a month of cruising and exploring the out islands, we began a short, but circuitous trek , to the mainland and Puerto La Cruz. Our passage took us from Gulfo de Cariaco, through Machimo National Park. We wanted to take advantage of this cruising time because we planned to have the boat hauled in Puerto La Cruz for annual maintenance and repair and as such would be out of the water for awhile. We also planned to base our inland travel of Venezuela from PLC so we would stay in a marina. Though we anxiously look forward to this prospect, being away from cruising for a while makes us want to do as much of it as we can now. |
| Gulfo de Cariaco |
The very best part of sailing in the gulf was meeting up with dolphins... lots of them. We saw dozens
of them all jumping and swimming in our bow wake. It was a joy watching them. We ran up to the
bow and watched 6 to 8 to 10 of them at a time jump in unison in front of us... as if they had
choreographed it in advance... just for us.
of them all jumping and swimming in our bow wake. It was a joy watching them. We ran up to the
bow and watched 6 to 8 to 10 of them at a time jump in unison in front of us... as if they had
choreographed it in advance... just for us.
A view from the top. You can barely make out the
Nine of Cups at anchor far below.
Nine of Cups at anchor far below.
| Click to read Marcie's article Laguna Grande: A Touch of the Surreal |
| To continue on to mainland Venezuela with us, click here. To return to Caribbean Island Hopping, click here. Return to Home Page |
All stars and no stripes! By the
time we reached, Puerto La Cruz,
our ensign was in tatters...eaten up
by the wind and elements.
time we reached, Puerto La Cruz,
our ensign was in tatters...eaten up
by the wind and elements.