| s/v Nine of Cups Venezuelan Out-Islands |
In addition to an extensive coastline, Venezuela has 72 islands in the
Caribbean...most accessible only by boat. Though each island and island group
shared many traits, each had a personality all its own which we endeavored to
discover and explore. We spent 1-1/2 months in the islands before ever heading to
Puerto la Cruz and the mainland. Without exception, we found the islands a delight.
The few inhabitants were friendly and courteous. The politics of the mainland were
never evident in these outlying areas and even the cosmopolitan island of Margarita
showed little evidence of the political unrest endemic elsewhere in Venezuela.
Caribbean...most accessible only by boat. Though each island and island group
shared many traits, each had a personality all its own which we endeavored to
discover and explore. We spent 1-1/2 months in the islands before ever heading to
Puerto la Cruz and the mainland. Without exception, we found the islands a delight.
The few inhabitants were friendly and courteous. The politics of the mainland were
never evident in these outlying areas and even the cosmopolitan island of Margarita
showed little evidence of the political unrest endemic elsewhere in Venezuela.
Our informal entry to Venezuela and South
America was Los Testigos, about 90 miles
from Trindad. Los Testigos (the witnesses)
are a small island group consisting of 5 main
islands and several smaller ones. It is a
fishing village of about 160 inhabitants with a
small school and church and a Guardacosta
(Coast Guard) station. The climate is dry
and the breezes are constant. The
anchorage is cool and calm. The snorkeling
is excellent and there are huge sand dunes to
climb. This view of Nine of Cups is taken
from the top of the sand dune.
America was Los Testigos, about 90 miles
from Trindad. Los Testigos (the witnesses)
are a small island group consisting of 5 main
islands and several smaller ones. It is a
fishing village of about 160 inhabitants with a
small school and church and a Guardacosta
(Coast Guard) station. The climate is dry
and the breezes are constant. The
anchorage is cool and calm. The snorkeling
is excellent and there are huge sand dunes to
climb. This view of Nine of Cups is taken
from the top of the sand dune.
Along with 4 other cruising couples, we
took a day long guided tour of Isla
Margarita. Unlike the other islands,
Margarita is very cosmopolitan and a
vacation mecca for the Venezuelans. The
tour included forts, castles, scenic vistas,
history and legends. Later, with the boat,
we circumnavigated the island. One of the
highlights was a visit to El Valle del Espiritu
Sancto (Valley of the Holy Spirit) which
had a lot of historical significance and
legend associated with it. It seems that a
statue of the Virgin Mary was carved out
of wood and painted in spain in the late
1490´s and brought to Isla Cubagua (an
island not far from Margarita) in about
1510. In 1541 a huge earthquake and
tidal wave hit the island and all was lost. A
year later, the Virgin was found floating,
totally undamaged by earthquake, tidal
wave or a year in the water, and this they
considered a miracle. She was then
brought to Isla Margarita where she is kept
to this day in a basilica. We did get a kick
out of the cart upon cart of "Virgins" for
sale in the plaza outside the church. No
irreverence intended.
took a day long guided tour of Isla
Margarita. Unlike the other islands,
Margarita is very cosmopolitan and a
vacation mecca for the Venezuelans. The
tour included forts, castles, scenic vistas,
history and legends. Later, with the boat,
we circumnavigated the island. One of the
highlights was a visit to El Valle del Espiritu
Sancto (Valley of the Holy Spirit) which
had a lot of historical significance and
legend associated with it. It seems that a
statue of the Virgin Mary was carved out
of wood and painted in spain in the late
1490´s and brought to Isla Cubagua (an
island not far from Margarita) in about
1510. In 1541 a huge earthquake and
tidal wave hit the island and all was lost. A
year later, the Virgin was found floating,
totally undamaged by earthquake, tidal
wave or a year in the water, and this they
considered a miracle. She was then
brought to Isla Margarita where she is kept
to this day in a basilica. We did get a kick
out of the cart upon cart of "Virgins" for
sale in the plaza outside the church. No
irreverence intended.
Picture in your mind a beautiful, mostly
deserted Caribbean island with palm trees
swaying and white sandy beaches...
you´ve just conjured up Blanquilla. About
50 miles north of Margarita, the 6x5 mile
island is flat, low lying and very desolate...
populated only by a Guardacosta station,
and a few fishermen, wild donkeys, iguanas
and cacti. The cruising guide shows an
anchorage on the west end right near the
two palms. Sure enough, here it is.
deserted Caribbean island with palm trees
swaying and white sandy beaches...
you´ve just conjured up Blanquilla. About
50 miles north of Margarita, the 6x5 mile
island is flat, low lying and very desolate...
populated only by a Guardacosta station,
and a few fishermen, wild donkeys, iguanas
and cacti. The cruising guide shows an
anchorage on the west end right near the
two palms. Sure enough, here it is.
Our meeting with the local "abuela" and
lots of kids highlighted our visit ashore at
isolated Cubagua. The kids met our
dinghy and "helped" us beach it. We were
asked for powdered milk which we later
delivered along with several other useful
gifts and some popcorn which we shared
with the kids on the beach. In exchange,
the kids gave us some very fine shells and
their mom gave us some great fish for
dinner.
lots of kids highlighted our visit ashore at
isolated Cubagua. The kids met our
dinghy and "helped" us beach it. We were
asked for powdered milk which we later
delivered along with several other useful
gifts and some popcorn which we shared
with the kids on the beach. In exchange,
the kids gave us some very fine shells and
their mom gave us some great fish for
dinner.
The Gulfo de Cariaco is 35 miles long and
never more than 8 miles wide. It is bordered
on the north by the red clay hills of Peninsula
de Araya and to the south and east by
mainland Venezuela. Both sides of the gulf
offer spectacular scenery and wonderful
anchorages. The very best part of sailing in
the gulf was meeting up with dolphins... lots
of them. We saw dozens of them all jumping
and swimming in our bow wake. It was a joy
watching them. We ran up to the bow and
watched 6 to 8 to 10 of them at a time jump
in unison in front of us... as if they had
choreographed it in advance... just for us.
This is a shot looking down at two of them
from the bow.
never more than 8 miles wide. It is bordered
on the north by the red clay hills of Peninsula
de Araya and to the south and east by
mainland Venezuela. Both sides of the gulf
offer spectacular scenery and wonderful
anchorages. The very best part of sailing in
the gulf was meeting up with dolphins... lots
of them. We saw dozens of them all jumping
and swimming in our bow wake. It was a joy
watching them. We ran up to the bow and
watched 6 to 8 to 10 of them at a time jump
in unison in front of us... as if they had
choreographed it in advance... just for us.
This is a shot looking down at two of them
from the bow.
Laguna Grande is an almost surreal setting. The anchorage is surrounded
on three sides by red mountains that rise rather steeply from the water to
about 600 feet. We climbed to the top of one and oh, the views were
spectacular. Laguna Grande is quite large and there are several little bays
and islands... all of which were visible from the top of the hill. The climb
was somewhat arduous... somewhat steep and lots of shale and cactus to
keep your attention. We stopped frequently ostensibly to take pictures, but
I was catching my breath if you really want to know the truth! You can
barely make out the Nine of Cups at anchor.
on three sides by red mountains that rise rather steeply from the water to
about 600 feet. We climbed to the top of one and oh, the views were
spectacular. Laguna Grande is quite large and there are several little bays
and islands... all of which were visible from the top of the hill. The climb
was somewhat arduous... somewhat steep and lots of shale and cactus to
keep your attention. We stopped frequently ostensibly to take pictures, but
I was catching my breath if you really want to know the truth! You can
barely make out the Nine of Cups at anchor.