s/y Nine of Cups
A Sidetrip to Antarctica
March 10-20, 2006
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Antarctica Facts:

Capital:          None
Population:     Officially none, except at research stations
                and then 1,200 in winter; 5,000 in summer
Land Area:      5,100,021 sq miles...varies due to changing ice shelves.
                 It is the 5th largest continent.
Language:         No official language
Currency:          No currency
Highest point:    Vinson Massif 16,066 feet above sea level

According to the Antarctica Treaty of 1959, this continent is "owned" by
no one, although several governments have claimed territory and have
permanent stations located on the continent. Only research for peaceful
means is allowed.
Overall, it is the coldest, darkest, highest and driest continent.

We left Nine of Cups on a mooring in Ushuaia and boarded the ship,
Explorer (aka The Little Red Ship) bound for Antarctica for 10 days.
Our trip took us across the Drake Passage, the Antarctic Convergence
(the meeting of the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans) to the
Antarctic Peninsula.
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We were blessed with fine weather crossing the Drake Passage
and arrived at our first stop  at Aitcho Island in the South
Shetlands to find green moss hills and lots of gentoo penguins.
Without a doubt, Antarctica is the most exotic place we have
ever visited. It is "other worldly". Beautiful, cold, austere, serene,
remote...it is each of these, all of these and so much more.
The wildlife was incredible. We
saw gentoo, adelie, chinstrap
and macaroni penguins. Other
birdlife included several types of
albatross, skua, snowy
sheathbills, petrels and Antarctic
terns. Most birds were not shy
and showed no fear of humans.
We were told to maintain a
distance of 15 feet from any
wildlife, but obviously the birds
had not read the manual and
walked right up to us, curious
about these large animals
invading their turf.
On Danco Island, the sign
noting the historical
signficance of the island
also provided good, but
limited, reading material for
this local gentoo penguin.

One in 800 fur seals are
white and we were
fortunate enough to spot
one on the beach at
Deception Island. In
addition to fur seals, we
saw elephant seals,
Weddell seals, crabeaters  
and the fierce leopard
seals.
Ice is a major part of the landscape here. It is everchanging and
magnificent. We had the opportunity to drift and wander through ice
floe aboard Zodiac inflatables. The colors, hues and shadows were
incredible.
Whales were a common sight especially Minkes, fins and humpbacks.
We stopped and toured two stations: Akademik Vernadsky, a
Ukranian station and Lockroy, a British station. Above, a vodka
toast at Vernadksy.
The ice is home to many of the animals. Above, a penguin peeks
out at resting seals.
Recommended reading...

  • Terra Incognita: Travels in Antarctica by
    Sara Wheeler

  • Endurance: Shackleton's Incredible
    Voyage by Alfred Lansing
Come with us to Ushuaia and Up the
Argentine Coast next.