| s/v Nine of Cups Up the Argentine Coast February - April 2006 |
The pier at the municipal yacht club is in disrepair,but the
views are terrific.
views are terrific.
From the top of the hill, a good view of Nine of Cups at
anchor in the harbor. She's center to the right of the red
steeple.
anchor in the harbor. She's center to the right of the red
steeple.
Winter approached quickly. We woke one morning to
find snow on the mountains and frost on our noses. It was
time to head north. We made last minute preparations and
provisioned and off we sailed (ugh...motor-sailed).
find snow on the mountains and frost on our noses. It was
time to head north. We made last minute preparations and
provisioned and off we sailed (ugh...motor-sailed).
The picturesque Lighthouse L'Eclaireur is postcard
perfect.
perfect.
We were sailing in "loose company" with Noel Marshal, a
single handler, aboard "Sadko".The day was lovely as we
headed east out the Beagle Channel to our first anchorage
in Bahia Relegada.
single handler, aboard "Sadko".The day was lovely as we
headed east out the Beagle Channel to our first anchorage
in Bahia Relegada.
From our anchorage in Relegada, a short, very pleasant walk brought us to
Estancia Harberton, the first estancia (ranch) in Tierra del Fuego and a lovely
place to explore. The estancia was established by a missionary Rev. Thomas
Bridges in 1886. He is well known for his work with the indigenous Yamana
people and developing an English-Yamana dictionary. His son, Lucas, wrote
"The Uttermost Part of the Earth", an amazing boyhood memoir of growing
up with the Yamana. The estancia is still run by the family, Tommy and
Natalie Goodall. Natalie is responsible for the development of the museum
there and for identifying and documenting much of the flora and fauna of the
area.
We spent a wonderful day touring the property and learning more about the
Yamana and the early settlers in the region. We took tea in the afternoon at
the tiny tea room and wandered the property till early evening.
Estancia Harberton, the first estancia (ranch) in Tierra del Fuego and a lovely
place to explore. The estancia was established by a missionary Rev. Thomas
Bridges in 1886. He is well known for his work with the indigenous Yamana
people and developing an English-Yamana dictionary. His son, Lucas, wrote
"The Uttermost Part of the Earth", an amazing boyhood memoir of growing
up with the Yamana. The estancia is still run by the family, Tommy and
Natalie Goodall. Natalie is responsible for the development of the museum
there and for identifying and documenting much of the flora and fauna of the
area.
We spent a wonderful day touring the property and learning more about the
Yamana and the early settlers in the region. We took tea in the afternoon at
the tiny tea room and wandered the property till early evening.
The Museum Acashutun at the estancia offers a unique
collection of marine animal bones.
collection of marine animal bones.
A local inhabitant of the estancia, a gray fox, poses for this
photo.
photo.
Our day in Bahia Relegada was sunny and warm...obviously one of
the last warm days. As we progressed along the Beagle, the weather
changed drastically. We encountered high winds and a reasonable
blizzard in Bahia Aguirre and waited out the snowstorm before
heading into the Atlantic, through the Strait of Lemaire and then
turning north towards Mar del Plata, Argentina and some warmer
temperatures.
the last warm days. As we progressed along the Beagle, the weather
changed drastically. We encountered high winds and a reasonable
blizzard in Bahia Aguirre and waited out the snowstorm before
heading into the Atlantic, through the Strait of Lemaire and then
turning north towards Mar del Plata, Argentina and some warmer
temperatures.
The entire trip took from Ushuaia to Mar del Plata took 19 days.
We had a mix of blizzards, gales, big seas and perfect sailing
weather, but at last we headed into Mar del Plata and some
warmth..
We had a mix of blizzards, gales, big seas and perfect sailing
weather, but at last we headed into Mar del Plata and some
warmth..
Heading into Mar del Plata harbor, we were
greeted by an enormous Jesus statue erected
on the breakwater. Marcie referred to him
ever after as the "Big Jesus".
greeted by an enormous Jesus statue erected
on the breakwater. Marcie referred to him
ever after as the "Big Jesus".
Mar del Plata, primarily a resort city, is
fairly large and an odd mixture of old and
new. Here an ornate church steeple mingles
with one story homes and skyscrapers.
fairly large and an odd mixture of old and
new. Here an ornate church steeple mingles
with one story homes and skyscrapers.
The local water tower blended well with
the local architecture.
the local architecture.
A large sea lion colony lives near the breakwater. You
can hear them and smell them long before you see them.
can hear them and smell them long before you see them.
The Mar del Plata coast is long and sweeping...great for surfing
as well as sunbathing.
as well as sunbathing.
| Ushuaia, southernmost city in the world |
| Estancia Harberton |
| Mar del Plata |
From Mar del Plata, we headed to Uruguay for boat maintenance, but we plan to return to Argentina in
July to do more inland travel. To continue with us to Uruguay, click here.
July to do more inland travel. To continue with us to Uruguay, click here.
| Heading North up the Argentine Coast |
We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina at the end of February, a 25 mile motor sail up the
Beagle Channel from from Puerto Williams. Ushuaia, touted as the most southern
"city" on the planet, is a beautiful little city surrounded by mountains. We arrived in
summer and enjoyed cool, but mainly sunny weather and long days. After a month in
the canals and Puerto Williams, it was a pleasure to shop at a grocery store, buy an
ice cream cone, eat at a restaurant, visit a museum and generally enjoy the
advantages of civilization again.
Beagle Channel from from Puerto Williams. Ushuaia, touted as the most southern
"city" on the planet, is a beautiful little city surrounded by mountains. We arrived in
summer and enjoyed cool, but mainly sunny weather and long days. After a month in
the canals and Puerto Williams, it was a pleasure to shop at a grocery store, buy an
ice cream cone, eat at a restaurant, visit a museum and generally enjoy the
advantages of civilization again.