s/v Nine of Cups Galapagos Islands

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March-April 2004

Belonging to Ecuador since being claimed in 1832, the Galapagos Islands lie in the Pacific about 600 miles west of Ecuador. They were officially declared a national park in 1959. The trip took us 5 full, pleasant days of motor-sailing. Population: ~18,500 Area/Geography: Volcanic peaks which cover an area of 3,029 sq. miles comprised of 13 islands and 40-50 islets. The five largest islands are Isabela, Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Fernandina and San Salvador. Cruising yachts are limited to 4 anchorages. We were able to visit 3 of the 4, Isabela being our favorite.

Without a doubt, the highlight of the Galapagos is the wildlife here...much of it unique in the world. The giant tortoises are one of the main attractions at the Darwin Station. The word "galapagos" is actually a type of Spanish riding saddle. Early Spanish explorers thought the tortoise shells resembled these saddles and named them accordingly.

We saw lots and lots of birds, but photographing them was another story. We concluded that the most common bird on the island was the "blurry" bird. We saw mockingbirds, pelicans, gulls, many different types and colors of finches, warblers, frigate birds, stilts, tropic birds, herons, flycatchers, flamingos and boobies. The waders and shorebirds were the easiest to capture by photo. The lava heron to the right was a most patient subject.

The arid zone seems a contrast to the vast ocean which lies beside it. Lava rock is strewn everywhere interspersed with fine beach sand. Hundreds of marine iguanas (the only marine iguana in the world, we're told) sun themselves on lava rock then dive into the ocean for a snack and to cool off. They are not bothered by humankind and seem to enjoy a bit of company once in a while.

David and friend take a walk on the malecon.

Tiny, colorful lava lizards scurry about everywhere.

The land iguanas here are different in color and looks than any we've seen elsewhere.

Malecon at Isabela shown above.

Blue-footed boobies soared overhead before making dive bomb attacks on the fish below.

The sea lions had no problem boarding unoccupied boats to laze in the sun.

Isla Isabela, the largest island in the archipelago, has six volcanoes which are intermittently active, the last eruption being recorded in 1988. We anchored in a bay surrounded by reefs just east of of town. The best part of the anchorage was the sealife around us. In all we spent nearly a month in the Galapagos and they are indeed enchanting. The effects of tourism are indelibly evident even though the Park is working hard to minimize the impact.

Galapagos penguins swam on the nearby reefs.

See John Santic's website on our visit to the Galapagos and Easter Island

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