s/v Nine of Cups
Galapagos Islands
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Belonging to Ecuador since being claimed in 1832, the Galapagos Islands lie in
the Pacific about 600 miles west of Ecuador. They were officially declared a
national park in 1959. The trip took us 5 full, pleasant days of motor-sailing.
Population: ~18,500
Area/Geography: Volcanic peaks which cover an area of 3,029 sq. miles
comprised of 13 islands and 40-50 islets. The five largest islands are Isabela,
Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Fernandina and San Salvador. Cruising yachts are
limited to 4 anchorages. We were able to visit 3 of the 4, Isabela being our
favorite.
Without a doubt, the highlight of the
Galapagos is the wildlife here...much of
it unique in the world. The giant
tortoises are one of the main attractions
at the Darwin Station. The word
"galapagos" is actually a type of
Spanish riding saddle. Early Spanish
explorers thought the tortoise shells
resembled these saddles and named
them accordingly.
We saw lots and lots of birds, but
photographing them was another story.
We concluded that the most common bird
on the island was the "blurry" bird. We
saw mockingbirds, pelicans, gulls, many
different types and colors of finches,
warblers, frigate birds, stilts, tropic birds,
herons, flycatchers, flamingos and
boobies. The waders and shorebirds were
the easiest to capture by photo. The lava
heron to the right was a most patient
subject.
David and friend take a walk on the malecon.
The arid zone seems a contrast to the vast
ocean which lies beside it. Lava rock is
strewn everywhere interspersed with fine
beach sand. Hundreds of marine iguanas
(the only marine iguana in the world, we're
told) sun themselves on lava rock then dive
into the ocean for a snack and to cool off.
They are not bothered by humankind and
seem to enjoy a bit of company once in a
while.
Tiny, colorful lava lizards scurry about everywhere.
The land iguanas here are different in color and looks
than any we've seen elsewhere.
Malecon at Isabela shown above.
Blue-footed boobies soared overhead before making
dive bomb attacks on the fish below.
The sea lions had no problem boarding
unoccupied boats to laze in the sun.
Galapagos penguins swam on the nearby reefs.
Isla Isabela, the largest island in the
archipelago, has six volcanoes which are
intermittently active, the last eruption being
recorded in 1988. We anchored in a bay
surrounded by reefs just east of of town.
The best part of the anchorage was the
sealife around us.

In all we spent nearly a month in the
Galapagos and they are indeed enchanting.
The effects of tourism are indelibly evident
even though the Park is working hard to
minimize the impact.
March-April 2004
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See John Santic's website on our visit
to the Galapagos and Easter Island