| Nine of Cups Niue 2009 |
| Niue Facts... Capital: Alofi Area: ~100 sq miles (about 1.5x the size of Washington, DC) Population: 2,166 (est 2006) Currency: New Zealand $ - currently ~$1NZ=$.75US Time: -11 UTC Lowest point: Pacific Ocean (sea level) Highest point: unnamed location near Mutalau settlement ~221' Languages: English, Niuean Guides: Lonely Planet South Pacific, Charlie's Charts |
| One of world's largest coral islands, its name actually means “Behold the coconut”, but Niue (pronounced new-ay) is more affectionately known as the “Rock of Polynesia”. |
| Niue is the smallest self- governing state in the world. |
| Niue was dubbed by Captn James Cook in 1774 as the Savage Island because of the unwelcoming attitude of its inhabitants and lack of a good anchorage. He doesn't know what he missed! |
| The weekly Niue Star is the island's local newspaper. |
Click burgee for the
Niue Yacht Club site.
Niue Yacht Club site.
The trip to Niue was quick with fresh winds and
3-4M seas. Here's a pic of "Cups" taken by Kiki
Herz on "Kaori" as the 125' super sailing yacht
screamed past us en route from Suwarrow to Niue.
3-4M seas. Here's a pic of "Cups" taken by Kiki
Herz on "Kaori" as the 125' super sailing yacht
screamed past us en route from Suwarrow to Niue.
A fantastic warm welcome
awaited us in Niue. Above, here
we are under the NYC/SSCA
burgees at the NYC clubhouse
aka Mamata's Cafe. Rob Sicade
("Yohelah") photo
awaited us in Niue. Above, here
we are under the NYC/SSCA
burgees at the NYC clubhouse
aka Mamata's Cafe. Rob Sicade
("Yohelah") photo
Our fascination with visiting Niue goes back a
couple of years. As a volunteer Cruising Station
Coordinator for SSCA, Marcie appointed Keith
Vial, the Commodore of the Niue Yacht Club as
a Cruising Station a couple of years back. We
maintained email contact with a promise that as
soon as Nine of Cups managed to cross the
Pacific, we'd stop for a visit. In the meantime,
Marcie did lots of research on the island, its
history, culture and things to see and do.
Finally...we got here! Keith and the NYC rolled
out the red carpet for us.We were overwhelmed!
A tiare lei greeting at the wharf on arrival,
chauffeur service to all the check-in offices, an
NYC/SSCA BBQ at the yacht club, an island
tour, lunch at the Washaway Cafe, introductions
to lots of wonderful people and a friendship that
will last a lifetime. We even got to meet the
Premiere of this tiny island nation!
couple of years. As a volunteer Cruising Station
Coordinator for SSCA, Marcie appointed Keith
Vial, the Commodore of the Niue Yacht Club as
a Cruising Station a couple of years back. We
maintained email contact with a promise that as
soon as Nine of Cups managed to cross the
Pacific, we'd stop for a visit. In the meantime,
Marcie did lots of research on the island, its
history, culture and things to see and do.
Finally...we got here! Keith and the NYC rolled
out the red carpet for us.We were overwhelmed!
A tiare lei greeting at the wharf on arrival,
chauffeur service to all the check-in offices, an
NYC/SSCA BBQ at the yacht club, an island
tour, lunch at the Washaway Cafe, introductions
to lots of wonderful people and a friendship that
will last a lifetime. We even got to meet the
Premiere of this tiny island nation!
Our first Saturday was a Village Day. Each
of the island's 14 villages take turns every
other Saturday during the tourist season,
presenting entertainment and games as well
as offering crafts and food for sale. Above,
coconut crabs (uga), a delicacy of Niue, on a
tether waiting to be sold.
of the island's 14 villages take turns every
other Saturday during the tourist season,
presenting entertainment and games as well
as offering crafts and food for sale. Above,
coconut crabs (uga), a delicacy of Niue, on a
tether waiting to be sold.
A view of the anchorage and Sir Robert's Wharf. That's
"Nine of Cups" on the first mooring.
"Nine of Cups" on the first mooring.
Getting dinghies in and out of the water takes
quite a bit of cooperation and coordination. A
crane is used to haul the dinghy out of the water
and then it's placed on dolly and lined up out of
the way next to the other dinghies on the wharf.
Someone needs to operate the crane and when
there's a swell running, it takes everyone's
attention to hook up the dink, get the driver out
and attempt to stay dry. We never made it once
to shore without getting soaked. Launching is,
of course, just the reverse.
quite a bit of cooperation and coordination. A
crane is used to haul the dinghy out of the water
and then it's placed on dolly and lined up out of
the way next to the other dinghies on the wharf.
Someone needs to operate the crane and when
there's a swell running, it takes everyone's
attention to hook up the dink, get the driver out
and attempt to stay dry. We never made it once
to shore without getting soaked. Launching is,
of course, just the reverse.
The dancers were quite entertaining and ranged from
local and Cook Island dancing to C&W line dancing.
local and Cook Island dancing to C&W line dancing.
We especially liked the local island music and
appreciated the percussionist's innovative
instrument: corrugated roofing.
appreciated the percussionist's innovative
instrument: corrugated roofing.
Sundays are usually quiet on the island...reserved for
church and family. One place, however, Willy's
Washaway Cafe is open from "11am till the last
person leaves". Keith & Sue invited us to lunch there.
It's the only "honors bar", we've ever encountered.
church and family. One place, however, Willy's
Washaway Cafe is open from "11am till the last
person leaves". Keith & Sue invited us to lunch there.
It's the only "honors bar", we've ever encountered.
In January 2004, Cyclone Heta hit the island
with full force, wiping out 80% of the island's
foliage and causing devastating damage. We
saw remnants of houses, hotels and
businesses that were flattened by Heta's 300
km/hr winds and huge 100' (30M) waves.
with full force, wiping out 80% of the island's
foliage and causing devastating damage. We
saw remnants of houses, hotels and
businesses that were flattened by Heta's 300
km/hr winds and huge 100' (30M) waves.
Keith planned a joint NYC/SSCA BBQ one
evening at the yacht club for the cruisers. We
had a large attendance and Marcie couldn't help
but promote the fine traditions and value of
SSCA membership and of course, membership
in the NYC! Photo by Rob Sicade.
evening at the yacht club for the cruisers. We
had a large attendance and Marcie couldn't help
but promote the fine traditions and value of
SSCA membership and of course, membership
in the NYC! Photo by Rob Sicade.
After a few weeks in the Cooks, we arrived in need
of some supplies, but the supply ship was late in
arriving from Samoa and the shelves of the
Swan-Son supermarket above, were near empty.
The biggest crisis, however...NO BEER on the
island. It was the talk of the town. Formal
complaints were lodged.
of some supplies, but the supply ship was late in
arriving from Samoa and the shelves of the
Swan-Son supermarket above, were near empty.
The biggest crisis, however...NO BEER on the
island. It was the talk of the town. Formal
complaints were lodged.
Keith took several cruisers on an island
orientation tour and we really got a chance to
see several things we would have never seen on
our own. We visited Mark Cross' studio, for
instance, in Liku. Mark is a renowned as one of
the finest realist painters in the South Pacific.
orientation tour and we really got a chance to
see several things we would have never seen on
our own. We visited Mark Cross' studio, for
instance, in Liku. Mark is a renowned as one of
the finest realist painters in the South Pacific.
Niue does not have much industry. We had a
chance to visit a noni farm, take a tour with the
managers Tom & Yolande and sample some
noni juice. No one was particularly fond of the
taste, but we figured with rum it might be okay!
chance to visit a noni farm, take a tour with the
managers Tom & Yolande and sample some
noni juice. No one was particularly fond of the
taste, but we figured with rum it might be okay!
This spider is one of Yolande's pets...at
least she thought it was pretty and didn't
kill it. The actual size? oh...about the
size of a Buick, I'd say!
least she thought it was pretty and didn't
kill it. The actual size? oh...about the
size of a Buick, I'd say!
| Fakaalofa atu is hello in Niuean. |
Above, Tombstone Point occupies a
plateau just above the anchorage.
plateau just above the anchorage.
We rented a car with Rob & Teresa on
"Yohelah" one day and took a more extensive
island tour. First stop was to look a local
handmade baskets in Makefu village.
"Yohelah" one day and took a more extensive
island tour. First stop was to look a local
handmade baskets in Makefu village.
The Avaiki Caves were absolutely beautiful. We walked along a forest path which eventually
entered a cave and emerged into the caverns above with a gorgeous crystal clear lagoon.
entered a cave and emerged into the caverns above with a gorgeous crystal clear lagoon.
Next, were the Palaha Caves. Again, we
followed a forest trail which led us through
several caves complete with stalactites and
stalagmites.
followed a forest trail which led us through
several caves complete with stalactites and
stalagmites.
The Limu Pools were tiny coral coves with beautiful
views and lots of tropical fish swimming about.
views and lots of tropical fish swimming about.
Butterflies abounded along all the forest
paths. Whole flocks of them fluttering by
most gracefully.
paths. Whole flocks of them fluttering by
most gracefully.
The Talava Arches were most impressive and
provided great photo opps.
provided great photo opps.
The sea track (places where canoes can be
launched) at Liku had a walk beside a large sea wall
which led to caves where locals stowed their canoes.
launched) at Liku had a walk beside a large sea wall
which led to caves where locals stowed their canoes.
We got a kick out of this sign and it took us
awhile to figure out that "pigs for hair cuttings"
and "pigs for ear piercings" meant that pigs
for roasting were available for the feasts
associated with the coming of age ceremonies.
awhile to figure out that "pigs for hair cuttings"
and "pigs for ear piercings" meant that pigs
for roasting were available for the feasts
associated with the coming of age ceremonies.
One of the most unique sites was the
Togo (pronounced Tongo) Chasm. A
narrow cleft in the limestone walls
revealed an oasis complete with palm
trees, white sand, but no water. We
could, however hear the crashing the
waves not far away. Above, Rob
prepares to descend a very, very steep
vertical ladder.
Togo (pronounced Tongo) Chasm. A
narrow cleft in the limestone walls
revealed an oasis complete with palm
trees, white sand, but no water. We
could, however hear the crashing the
waves not far away. Above, Rob
prepares to descend a very, very steep
vertical ladder.
Our time in Niue would not have been half as
enjoyable without Keith & Sue Vial as our
hosts. Both Kiwis, Sue's a math teacher at the
high school and Keith is the Commodore of the
NYC and SSCA CS Host.
enjoyable without Keith & Sue Vial as our
hosts. Both Kiwis, Sue's a math teacher at the
high school and Keith is the Commodore of the
NYC and SSCA CS Host.
At last, the Southern Tiare arrived from Samoa
with its precious cargo of beer and other stuff. A
barge is used to transport all freight from the ship
to the wharf. Huge cranes are brought in to lift the
containers, vehicles and gas tanks from the barge
onto waiting trailer truck beds to be transported
throughout the island.
with its precious cargo of beer and other stuff. A
barge is used to transport all freight from the ship
to the wharf. Huge cranes are brought in to lift the
containers, vehicles and gas tanks from the barge
onto waiting trailer truck beds to be transported
throughout the island.
We left Niue in rather a hurry on 29 September. We had cleared out Customs and
Immigration on 28 September and planned to take a leisurely leave in the morning.
About 0700, we felt a rumbling on the boat...the feel you have when there's a lot of
wind in the shrouds "shivering your timbers" or when something is rubbing against the
chain. We couldn't figure it out and went back to our coffee. Well, it was actually an
earthquake centered in American Samoa (8.3 on the Richter scale). Shortly thereafter,
we heard an emergency tsunami warning issued to the fleet of yachties by the local
Niuean police department. Needless to say, it didn't take us long to haul the dink, stow
everything and cast off the mooring lines. Definitely got the adrenaline flowing. With a
modicum of fuss, we were under way. "Yohelah" was only minutes behind us.
Devastation, however, was great in Samoa and we had several friends there we were
quite worried about. We learned later from another yachtie that a friend was killed
when he was washed off the dock by a big wave in Pago Pago as he was trying to cast
off. Very sad news.
We are constantly reminded of our mortality and our vulnerability at sea and thank God
(and Neptune) for each day and each disaster avoided.
Immigration on 28 September and planned to take a leisurely leave in the morning.
About 0700, we felt a rumbling on the boat...the feel you have when there's a lot of
wind in the shrouds "shivering your timbers" or when something is rubbing against the
chain. We couldn't figure it out and went back to our coffee. Well, it was actually an
earthquake centered in American Samoa (8.3 on the Richter scale). Shortly thereafter,
we heard an emergency tsunami warning issued to the fleet of yachties by the local
Niuean police department. Needless to say, it didn't take us long to haul the dink, stow
everything and cast off the mooring lines. Definitely got the adrenaline flowing. With a
modicum of fuss, we were under way. "Yohelah" was only minutes behind us.
Devastation, however, was great in Samoa and we had several friends there we were
quite worried about. We learned later from another yachtie that a friend was killed
when he was washed off the dock by a big wave in Pago Pago as he was trying to cast
off. Very sad news.
We are constantly reminded of our mortality and our vulnerability at sea and thank God
(and Neptune) for each day and each disaster avoided.
We did not personally
see any of the katuali
(sea kraits) which inhabit
Niueans waters in great
numbers and are said to
be the most venomous
remote sea snakes in the
world. They're not
aggressive and swim with
divers all the time.
see any of the katuali
(sea kraits) which inhabit
Niueans waters in great
numbers and are said to
be the most venomous
remote sea snakes in the
world. They're not
aggressive and swim with
divers all the time.
Above, a humpback whale and baby (photo
Ulla Lutze). Though August is the best time, we
still saw and heard our share of humpbacks in
the anchorage and in the waters of Niue.
Ulla Lutze). Though August is the best time, we
still saw and heard our share of humpbacks in
the anchorage and in the waters of Niue.
Buff banded rails were common on the
greens of Niue's villages.
greens of Niue's villages.
We eyed this traditional Niuean basket when
we first arrived and saw nothing to rival it so
it's now a fine addition on "Nine of Cups" and
a memento of our Niue visit.
we first arrived and saw nothing to rival it so
it's now a fine addition on "Nine of Cups" and
a memento of our Niue visit.