| s/y Nine of Cups The Leeward Islands - St. Kitts & Nevis 2002 |
| St. Christopher (Kitts) & Nevis |
| St. Kitts Facts: Population: 30,000 Area: 68 square miles Capital: Basseterre Language: English Currency: EC$ ( Eastern Caribbean $) Highest point: Mt. Misery at 3,792’, a volcano. Major sports here: Cricket and soccer Inhabitants are called Kittians St. Christopher and Nevis together are an independent federation and part of the Eastern Carribbean Community. |
St. Kitts was yet another 20 mile motor
sail from Statia. We anchored in
Basseterre at the Deep Water Port
which was very, very rolly. A stern
anchor kept us into the waves and made
the anchorage much more tolerable.
It was Saturday and we worried about
clearing Customs, but no problem:
$14US. We found a taxi driver willing
to give us an island tour on a Sunday and
scheduled it for the next day then
decided to dinghy over to the main town
at Basseterre. The shops are only open
till Noon on Saturday and not at all on
Sunday, so we didn’t shop much (David
planned this, I think!).
sail from Statia. We anchored in
Basseterre at the Deep Water Port
which was very, very rolly. A stern
anchor kept us into the waves and made
the anchorage much more tolerable.
It was Saturday and we worried about
clearing Customs, but no problem:
$14US. We found a taxi driver willing
to give us an island tour on a Sunday and
scheduled it for the next day then
decided to dinghy over to the main town
at Basseterre. The shops are only open
till Noon on Saturday and not at all on
Sunday, so we didn’t shop much (David
planned this, I think!).
Downtown Basseterre is fashioned after
Picadilly Circus in London and boasts
this huge town clock in the center of the
rotary.
Picadilly Circus in London and boasts
this huge town clock in the center of the
rotary.
| St. Kitts was originally inhabited by the Caribs (hence the name Caribbean), a fierce, warrior people. The English arrived in 1624 and the French arrived in 1625. In 1626, they banded together (a very rare occurrence indeed), and massacred ~2,000 Caribs at Bloody Point totally annihilating the population. History reports that the river flowed red with blood for days. Note that this was all happening about the same time the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock! |
The “Sugarcane Train” is a narrow gauge railroad
with about 36 miles of track around the island.
There’s about 12,000 acres of sugar cane still
under cultivation in St. Kitts. The cane juice is
primarily used in the production of local rum.
with about 36 miles of track around the island.
There’s about 12,000 acres of sugar cane still
under cultivation in St. Kitts. The cane juice is
primarily used in the production of local rum.
Pictured above, a view of Brimstone Hill.
| The sugar cane plant is native to Asia and was brought to the Americas by Columbus in 1493. The Dutch traders introduced cane to the islands which became the major commerce by the mid- 1600’s. Africans were imported as slave labor to work the plantations. In 1665, the white population of St. Kitts was about 7,000 with about 3,000 blacks. By 1775, there were 1900 whites and 23,000 blacks. In 1834, slavery was abolished…the beginning of the end for the sugar cane business. |
The highlight of the tour was visiting Fort George fortress ."A World Heritage site, the Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, is an
exceptional and well-preserved example of 17th and 18th century military architecture in a Caribbean context. Designed by the British and
built by African slave labour, it is a testimony to European colonial expansion, the Atlantic slave trade and the emergence of new societies in
the Caribbean.” …from a Ft. George Museum sign
exceptional and well-preserved example of 17th and 18th century military architecture in a Caribbean context. Designed by the British and
built by African slave labour, it is a testimony to European colonial expansion, the Atlantic slave trade and the emergence of new societies in
the Caribbean.” …from a Ft. George Museum sign
Bell tower at Wingfield Plantation, an old
sugar cane plantation built in 1680 and since
been converted into a Botanical Garden.
sugar cane plantation built in 1680 and since
been converted into a Botanical Garden.
| Nevis |
| Nevis Facts...(Nee-vis) Population: 12,000 Area: 35 square miles Only town: Charlestown Language: English Currency: EC$ (Caribbean dollars) Highest point: Nevis Peak (3232’) Inhabitants are called: Nevisians |
While visiting the fort in St. Kitts and having a quick burger and a beer, we met a Swiss couple
(Gabrielle & Emil Schauer) and began chatting with them. After about an hour, they invited us to
spend a couple of days with them at their plantation home in Nevis. In addition to their fine
company, they also offered us our own guest quarters with hot showers and access to their laundry
facilities. How could we say “No”? We couldn’t …so off we sailed the 9 miles to Nevis. We
checked into Customs in Charlestown and wandered around a bit, then moved the boat to Oualie
Beach, Emil’s recommendation for a place to leave the boat.
(Gabrielle & Emil Schauer) and began chatting with them. After about an hour, they invited us to
spend a couple of days with them at their plantation home in Nevis. In addition to their fine
company, they also offered us our own guest quarters with hot showers and access to their laundry
facilities. How could we say “No”? We couldn’t …so off we sailed the 9 miles to Nevis. We
checked into Customs in Charlestown and wandered around a bit, then moved the boat to Oualie
Beach, Emil’s recommendation for a place to leave the boat.
| Nevisian trivia: What famous American statesman was born in Nevis? Alexander Hamilton. Note that several of Thomas Jefferson’s relatives were Nevisians,too. |
Charlestown waterfront and dinghy dock
with Nevis Peak in the distance.
with Nevis Peak in the distance.
The lovely plantation house we stayed at. We
had our own bungalow in the back where we
could hear monkeys chattering in the mornings.
had our own bungalow in the back where we
could hear monkeys chattering in the mornings.
Our most hospitable hosts, Emil & Gabrielle
(Gabbie), became good "old" friends in no
time at all.
(Gabbie), became good "old" friends in no
time at all.
The view of the Narrows, the strait between
Nevis and St. Kitts, was spectacular as
viewed from the front verandah of Emil &
Gabbie's house.
Nevis and St. Kitts, was spectacular as
viewed from the front verandah of Emil &
Gabbie's house.
he second day we were with Gabrielle &
Emil, we took an island tour in their
“Sidekick”. We visited some sugar cane
plantation ruins along the Atlantic coast. The
area is desert-like along the shore as
evidenced by the cactus plants which
happened to be in bloom.
Emil, we took an island tour in their
“Sidekick”. We visited some sugar cane
plantation ruins along the Atlantic coast. The
area is desert-like along the shore as
evidenced by the cactus plants which
happened to be in bloom.
We also visited the Nevis racetrack which
happened to have donkeys and goats grazing
on it at the time. Evidently, about 10
Sundays a year, there is thoroughbred horse
racing here. Sometimes, there are only 2
horses competing in a race, but it’s a major
social outing on Nevis and everyone who’s
anyone attends.
happened to have donkeys and goats grazing
on it at the time. Evidently, about 10
Sundays a year, there is thoroughbred horse
racing here. Sometimes, there are only 2
horses competing in a race, but it’s a major
social outing on Nevis and everyone who’s
anyone attends.
After 2 days and nights with the Schauer’s,
it was time to head out. As we left the
anchorage and sailed by their house, they
waved a large white sheet from the
verandah so we would see them and we
did. What a lovely way to say goodbye.
We sailed on to Montserrat, about 40
miles away, and arrived around 5pm into
Carr’s Bay and anchored. Since we didn’t
plan to go ashore, we just flew our “Q”
flag for the night.
it was time to head out. As we left the
anchorage and sailed by their house, they
waved a large white sheet from the
verandah so we would see them and we
did. What a lovely way to say goodbye.
We sailed on to Montserrat, about 40
miles away, and arrived around 5pm into
Carr’s Bay and anchored. Since we didn’t
plan to go ashore, we just flew our “Q”
flag for the night.
| Montserrat |
Not much to say about Montserrat. We
anchored for the night and never went ashore.
We took our leave for Guadeloupe the next
morning. As we passed, we could still see the
recently erupted volcano smoking in the
distance.
anchored for the night and never went ashore.
We took our leave for Guadeloupe the next
morning. As we passed, we could still see the
recently erupted volcano smoking in the
distance.
Between Montserrat and Guadeloupe lies the
Kingdom of Redonda. I know it looks like a big
rock (1 mile long, ~1000” high), and though it is
now claimed by Antigua, an Irishman from
Montserrat claimed it first as a kingdom for his
son in 1865 and crowned his son, King Filipe I.
The “crown” has been passed down to friends
and relatives along the way and the current
monarch is King Robert (Bob the Bald) who
resides in Antiqua.
Kingdom of Redonda. I know it looks like a big
rock (1 mile long, ~1000” high), and though it is
now claimed by Antigua, an Irishman from
Montserrat claimed it first as a kingdom for his
son in 1865 and crowned his son, King Filipe I.
The “crown” has been passed down to friends
and relatives along the way and the current
monarch is King Robert (Bob the Bald) who
resides in Antiqua.
Next on the itinerary, a taste of France
as we visit Guadeloupe. Allons-y!
as we visit Guadeloupe. Allons-y!