| s/v Nine of Cups Tierra del Fuego & Cape Horn |
| February 2006 |
Tierra del Fuego is comprised of one large island, Grand Tierra del Fuego and
several smaller islands and is shared by Chile and Argentina. The islands are quite
remote and are separated from mainland South America. Magellan named the
area "Land of Fire" because of the fires he saw burning ashore when he first
viewed the area. It's a toss-up as to whether the fires were to keep the locals
warm or to warn their neighbors of the approaching foreigners.
Because we had come from northern Chile through the canals, it was necessary
to stop at Puerto Williams, Chile to clear out of Chile before heading on to
Argentina. While we were there, it only made sense to "round the Horn".
Puerto Williams, the southernmost "muncipality" in the world, is a very small
town mostly comprised of a Chilean naval base. It was, however, fun to be
ashore, hike and get our land legs again.
The "yacht club" is an old Chilean munitions transport vessel which was
intentionally grounded. Yachts tie up to the sides of the Micalvi until there is no
more room and then other yachts "raft up" to them until they are 4-5 yachts
deep...an interesting twist when the outer boat needs to tote fuel jugs to his boat.
several smaller islands and is shared by Chile and Argentina. The islands are quite
remote and are separated from mainland South America. Magellan named the
area "Land of Fire" because of the fires he saw burning ashore when he first
viewed the area. It's a toss-up as to whether the fires were to keep the locals
warm or to warn their neighbors of the approaching foreigners.
Because we had come from northern Chile through the canals, it was necessary
to stop at Puerto Williams, Chile to clear out of Chile before heading on to
Argentina. While we were there, it only made sense to "round the Horn".
Puerto Williams, the southernmost "muncipality" in the world, is a very small
town mostly comprised of a Chilean naval base. It was, however, fun to be
ashore, hike and get our land legs again.
The "yacht club" is an old Chilean munitions transport vessel which was
intentionally grounded. Yachts tie up to the sides of the Micalvi until there is no
more room and then other yachts "raft up" to them until they are 4-5 yachts
deep...an interesting twist when the outer boat needs to tote fuel jugs to his boat.
Above from left, entrance to the Micalvi from shore; a pic of the
Micalvi from midships. There was a shower on board for cruisers as
well a restaurant/bar behind those round port holes you can see.
Nine of Cups is seen left...the inside boat (navy & white) with three
boats rafted to her. Below, an irresistible red row boat against a
blue sky.
Micalvi from midships. There was a shower on board for cruisers as
well a restaurant/bar behind those round port holes you can see.
Nine of Cups is seen left...the inside boat (navy & white) with three
boats rafted to her. Below, an irresistible red row boat against a
blue sky.
Puerto Williams is located on Isla Navarino, a wonderful island for hiking
and exploring. The peaks of Dientes del Navarino are shown to the left. We
hiked up Cerro Bandera for the spectacular view of the Beagle Channel
above.
and exploring. The peaks of Dientes del Navarino are shown to the left. We
hiked up Cerro Bandera for the spectacular view of the Beagle Channel
above.
To our surprise and
delight, wild flowers
bloomed everywhere,
but of course, it was
summer in Tierra del
Fuego. Lupines shown
left covered entire fields.
Right, David poses in
front of a city distance
sign. All points are
north from here (except
Antarctica) and
everywhere is far away.
delight, wild flowers
bloomed everywhere,
but of course, it was
summer in Tierra del
Fuego. Lupines shown
left covered entire fields.
Right, David poses in
front of a city distance
sign. All points are
north from here (except
Antarctica) and
everywhere is far away.
The local indigenous people, the Selk'nam, wore
few clothes in spite of the cold (note shrinkage in
photo left). The Martin Guisinde museum in Puerto
Williams, though small, provided an excellent
overview of the original inhabitants. The mask and
body painting were part of cultural coming of age
rituals.
Right, is the local cemetery, a beautiful, peaceful
resting spot overlooking the Beagle Channel.
Below, a calafate berry. Similar to a blueberry,
legend has it that anyone who tries a calafate berry
will return. We not only tried the berries (which we
picked ourselves), but we tried calafate jam and ice
cream.
few clothes in spite of the cold (note shrinkage in
photo left). The Martin Guisinde museum in Puerto
Williams, though small, provided an excellent
overview of the original inhabitants. The mask and
body painting were part of cultural coming of age
rituals.
Right, is the local cemetery, a beautiful, peaceful
resting spot overlooking the Beagle Channel.
Below, a calafate berry. Similar to a blueberry,
legend has it that anyone who tries a calafate berry
will return. We not only tried the berries (which we
picked ourselves), but we tried calafate jam and ice
cream.
We had every intention of anchoring a night in Puerto Maxwell and
then heading around the Horn, but fair winds and an extraordinary
dolphin escort beckoned us on. On February 12, 2006 at 5pm, we
snapped the photos above as we rounded the Horn west to east.
Shortly after this picture was taken, the wind increased to 40 knots
and we fought our way to Caleta Martial and anchored for the night.
Winds increased and continued (we clocked just under 60 knots)for
three days and we were finally rewarded with a respite and a
gorgeous sunrise. We headed back to Puerto Williams, anchoring
once again in Puerto Toro for the night. Once back in Puerto
Williams, we remained only a day before checking out of Chile and
heading 25 miles back up the Beagle Channel for Ushuaia, Argentina.
then heading around the Horn, but fair winds and an extraordinary
dolphin escort beckoned us on. On February 12, 2006 at 5pm, we
snapped the photos above as we rounded the Horn west to east.
Shortly after this picture was taken, the wind increased to 40 knots
and we fought our way to Caleta Martial and anchored for the night.
Winds increased and continued (we clocked just under 60 knots)for
three days and we were finally rewarded with a respite and a
gorgeous sunrise. We headed back to Puerto Williams, anchoring
once again in Puerto Toro for the night. Once back in Puerto
Williams, we remained only a day before checking out of Chile and
heading 25 miles back up the Beagle Channel for Ushuaia, Argentina.
A special "zarpe" (official permission) was required to sail around Cape Horn. We thought it
would be a quick trip. We waited for a reasonable weather window and headed out to Puerto
Toro, the southernmost "town" on the planet, where we docked next to the fishing boats for the
evening. High winds closed the port and we stayed an extra day waiting for the wind to subside.
would be a quick trip. We waited for a reasonable weather window and headed out to Puerto
Toro, the southernmost "town" on the planet, where we docked next to the fishing boats for the
evening. High winds closed the port and we stayed an extra day waiting for the wind to subside.