| s/v Nine of Cups Trans-Atlantic Passage 2 St. Helena & Ascension Islands |
| February - May 2007 |
We had originally thought we'd leave the boat in South Africa and
continue an eastabout circumnavigation after flying back to the
States for our yearly visit and most importantly, our son,
Brennan's wedding. After further consideration, however, we
decided "what the heck" let's sail...it's only 7,000 miles (7,000
MILES???!!!). We left Cape Town on February 20th. As we left
Cape Town behind, the autopilot began acting up and the jib
furler fouled. Both required immediate attention and we decided
we'd stop at Saldanha Bay (about 50 nm up the coast) to figure
out the problems.
continue an eastabout circumnavigation after flying back to the
States for our yearly visit and most importantly, our son,
Brennan's wedding. After further consideration, however, we
decided "what the heck" let's sail...it's only 7,000 miles (7,000
MILES???!!!). We left Cape Town on February 20th. As we left
Cape Town behind, the autopilot began acting up and the jib
furler fouled. Both required immediate attention and we decided
we'd stop at Saldanha Bay (about 50 nm up the coast) to figure
out the problems.
The Saldanha Bay YC (above) was small and friendly. We were
offered a free mooring for the night (and up to 10 nights if we needed
it). David diagnosed the problems immediately,fixed them within a
day and we were off once again.
offered a free mooring for the night (and up to 10 nights if we needed
it). David diagnosed the problems immediately,fixed them within a
day and we were off once again.
Above - Sunset in the South Atlantic...we never tired of them.
Left - Though Jelly seldom goes ashore, she can smell land long before
we can. She paced and paced as we neared St. Helena and appeared
as excited as we were as we neared the island after 1,760 miles (12
days) of fine sailing and dropped the hook off Jamestown.
Left - Though Jelly seldom goes ashore, she can smell land long before
we can. She paced and paced as we neared St. Helena and appeared
as excited as we were as we neared the island after 1,760 miles (12
days) of fine sailing and dropped the hook off Jamestown.
We try to exercise at least once per day. Jelly finds exercise
quite tedious, but found a good use for the hand weights.
quite tedious, but found a good use for the hand weights.
St. Helena Island (British Overseas Territory)
Capital: Jamestown
Population: ~5,000
Area: 47 sq mi (10.5 sq mi x 6.5 sq mi)
Highest point: Diana's Peak at 2,675'
Currency: St. Helena Pound (1 StHP = $2.11 US - Ouch!)
Exports/Industry: None; minimal tourism due to difficulty of access
No airport, ship traffic only.
Tristan da Cunha & Ascension are dependencies of St. Helena.
Capital: Jamestown
Population: ~5,000
Area: 47 sq mi (10.5 sq mi x 6.5 sq mi)
Highest point: Diana's Peak at 2,675'
Currency: St. Helena Pound (1 StHP = $2.11 US - Ouch!)
Exports/Industry: None; minimal tourism due to difficulty of access
No airport, ship traffic only.
Tristan da Cunha & Ascension are dependencies of St. Helena.
St. Helena is crusty on the outside (volcanic rock/cliffs) and lush on
the inside. Above a view of Jamestown with Jacob's Ladder
stretching up the side of cliff.
the inside. Above a view of Jamestown with Jacob's Ladder
stretching up the side of cliff.
Getting ashore was a bit of a challenge. Since docking was an issue for
boats, a water taxi used by the fishermen conveyed us back and forth to
Cups. Long knotted ropes hung waiting to be grabbed to pull yourself off
the taxi and onto the pier.
boats, a water taxi used by the fishermen conveyed us back and forth to
Cups. Long knotted ropes hung waiting to be grabbed to pull yourself off
the taxi and onto the pier.
A view of the wharf area above shows some of the original
buildings, still in use, built into the cliffside. Right, fairy terns nest in
the rocks.
buildings, still in use, built into the cliffside. Right, fairy terns nest in
the rocks.
There are lots of birds, most of which have
been "imported" over the years. Above, a java
sparrow.
been "imported" over the years. Above, a java
sparrow.
The archway entering Jamestown
is quite grand. We were
astounded as we passed through
and viewed the island's only city
for the first time. It had a
Victorian flavor and despite lots
of cars, it seemed that time had
stopped here.
The island was first discovered
by the Portugese in 1502. The
British took possession in 1659
and developed a "refreshment
station" for replenishing ships en
route. Many of the current
buildings date from the 19th
century.
Though we call the residents "St.
Helenians", they refer to
themselves as "Saints".
is quite grand. We were
astounded as we passed through
and viewed the island's only city
for the first time. It had a
Victorian flavor and despite lots
of cars, it seemed that time had
stopped here.
The island was first discovered
by the Portugese in 1502. The
British took possession in 1659
and developed a "refreshment
station" for replenishing ships en
route. Many of the current
buildings date from the 19th
century.
Though we call the residents "St.
Helenians", they refer to
themselves as "Saints".
We were lucky to see and photograph a rare
wirebird, indigenous to and found only on St.
Helena.
wirebird, indigenous to and found only on St.
Helena.
Above, a colorful Madagascar Fody or
Redbird.
Redbird.
We particularly liked Castle Gardens in the center of Jamestown. It was a great
respite during the days of walking and wandering. Above a water lily in the small
fountain. To the right, we were asked by the folks in Saldanha Bay to bring a
local South African rock and place it in Castle Gardens which we did. Their way
of boggling the minds of future geologists perhaps?
respite during the days of walking and wandering. Above a water lily in the small
fountain. To the right, we were asked by the folks in Saldanha Bay to bring a
local South African rock and place it in Castle Gardens which we did. Their way
of boggling the minds of future geologists perhaps?
St. Helena is probably most noted as the home of Napoleon, exiled here by the
British in 1815 until he died in 1821. Longwood, Napoleon's home shown
above, is French territory and when we took our tour, we were required to
obtain permission from the French Consul in advance. We could think of
worse places to be exiled. Napoleon's grave remains on the island, but his
remains were removed and brought back to France in 1840.
British in 1815 until he died in 1821. Longwood, Napoleon's home shown
above, is French territory and when we took our tour, we were required to
obtain permission from the French Consul in advance. We could think of
worse places to be exiled. Napoleon's grave remains on the island, but his
remains were removed and brought back to France in 1840.
Traveling to the interior of the island is going "up country". We
enjoyed fresh spring water served from a leaf as we explored
the areas that Napoleon roamed while he lived here.
enjoyed fresh spring water served from a leaf as we explored
the areas that Napoleon roamed while he lived here.
Thanks to Andy Repetto on Tristan da Cunha, we were
introduced via email to Gilbert Legg and his family on St.
Helena. Gilbert, his wife Joan and daughter, Juliana, were
wonderful hosts. They drove us all over sharing their beautiful
island with us including a wonderful Sunday picnic "up country"
at Colin's Bar.
introduced via email to Gilbert Legg and his family on St.
Helena. Gilbert, his wife Joan and daughter, Juliana, were
wonderful hosts. They drove us all over sharing their beautiful
island with us including a wonderful Sunday picnic "up country"
at Colin's Bar.
As with many islands, donkeys were originally used as work animals to
haul heavy loads, then abandoned when no longer needed. The Donkey
Conservancy on the island provides a home for retired donkeys.
haul heavy loads, then abandoned when no longer needed. The Donkey
Conservancy on the island provides a home for retired donkeys.
Above, a tiny church in Sandy Bay which is still used by
worshippers on Sunday mornings.
worshippers on Sunday mornings.
The views from "up country" were stupendous.
Left, the view from the top of Jacob's Ladder's 699 steps. Built in 1829 as
an inclined plane to haul manure and goods up and down, it remains today as
an alternative, albeit strenuous, route to the "up country" from the city.
Above, a view of Jamestown from an up country vantage point.
an inclined plane to haul manure and goods up and down, it remains today as
an alternative, albeit strenuous, route to the "up country" from the city.
Above, a view of Jamestown from an up country vantage point.
After a week at St. Helena, it was time to move on once
again. We hauled anchor the hard way (the windlass was
broken again) and set sail for Ascension Island some 700
miles away. A quick five days and we were anchored
once again.
again. We hauled anchor the hard way (the windlass was
broken again) and set sail for Ascension Island some 700
miles away. A quick five days and we were anchored
once again.
Ascension Island - Dependency of St. Helena, British Overseas Territory
Capital (and only city): Georgetown
Population: ~1,000; there is no indigenous population, only working residents
Located about 500 miles south of the Equator.
Discovered in 1501 by the Portugese. No permanent settlement until the British
set up a garrison here to aid St. Helena in case an attempt was made to free
Napoleon.
Ascension is the most isolated tropical island in the Atlantic.
Ascension is a working island. Both the U.S. and the British have air bases here.
It is a communications hub for the BBC and a repeater station for VOA.. Every
conceivable form of antenna and communication dish were seen throughout the
island.
Capital (and only city): Georgetown
Population: ~1,000; there is no indigenous population, only working residents
Located about 500 miles south of the Equator.
Discovered in 1501 by the Portugese. No permanent settlement until the British
set up a garrison here to aid St. Helena in case an attempt was made to free
Napoleon.
Ascension is the most isolated tropical island in the Atlantic.
Ascension is a working island. Both the U.S. and the British have air bases here.
It is a communications hub for the BBC and a repeater station for VOA.. Every
conceivable form of antenna and communication dish were seen throughout the
island.
Once again, the landing area was a bit dicey.. Ropes hung to aid
in getting ashore, but slippery, wet steps added to the challenge..
in getting ashore, but slippery, wet steps added to the challenge..
Jelly was quite enthralled with hordes of hungry triggerfish fighting
over stale soda crackers.
over stale soda crackers.
There was little attempt to beautify the surroundings.
Everything seemed built for utility not aesthetics.
Everything seemed built for utility not aesthetics.
The terrain was other
worldy...moonscape-is
h to be exact. Volcanic
rock at lower
elevations made hiking
and walking difficult in
some areas.
To the left, one of
many domes which
dotted the island. To
the right, the bus stop
at One Boat, on the
way to Two Boats.
worldy...moonscape-is
h to be exact. Volcanic
rock at lower
elevations made hiking
and walking difficult in
some areas.
To the left, one of
many domes which
dotted the island. To
the right, the bus stop
at One Boat, on the
way to Two Boats.
Despite the heat and rough terrain, we did quite a bit of hiking.
Above is Bonnetta Cemetery, a 19th century graveyard for
sailors from the ship "Bonnetta" who died on the island of yellow
fever.
Above is Bonnetta Cemetery, a 19th century graveyard for
sailors from the ship "Bonnetta" who died on the island of yellow
fever.
Our son, Brennan, turned us on to www.geocaching.com which
turned out to be quite fun. Folks who had visited earlier had hidden
a "cache" of small trinkets and left lat/long coordinates on line.
Others had discovered the cache and taken a trinket and left a
trinket in its place. We found the cache, took a deck of cards and
left some RSA coins..
turned out to be quite fun. Folks who had visited earlier had hidden
a "cache" of small trinkets and left lat/long coordinates on line.
Others had discovered the cache and taken a trinket and left a
trinket in its place. We found the cache, took a deck of cards and
left some RSA coins..
Ascension Island is the most important breeding ground for green turtles in the
tropical Atlantic. Each year 3,000-5,000 turtles swim over 1,200 miles from the
coast of Brazil to mate and lay eggs on one of Ascension's 32 sandy beaches. We
were fortunate enough to be around for this annual natural event. Along with an
island conservationist, we were able to witness the entire process. Above a female
digs a hole in the sand. To the right, the eggs are laid...usually about 100 at a time.
When done laying, she meticulously covers them using her strong flippers to shovel
the sand. When done, the exhausted female returns to the water. The entire process
takes several hours.
tropical Atlantic. Each year 3,000-5,000 turtles swim over 1,200 miles from the
coast of Brazil to mate and lay eggs on one of Ascension's 32 sandy beaches. We
were fortunate enough to be around for this annual natural event. Along with an
island conservationist, we were able to witness the entire process. Above a female
digs a hole in the sand. To the right, the eggs are laid...usually about 100 at a time.
When done laying, she meticulously covers them using her strong flippers to shovel
the sand. When done, the exhausted female returns to the water. The entire process
takes several hours.
The eggs take about 6-10
weeks to hatch. While we
watched one female laying
eggs, several hatchlings
scampered by on their way to
the water. Only about 1 in
1,000 hatchlings mature and
return to Ascension to
complete the breeding
process.
In days of old, turtle corrals
(right) were built to store
turtles which provided meat
to passing ships.
weeks to hatch. While we
watched one female laying
eggs, several hatchlings
scampered by on their way to
the water. Only about 1 in
1,000 hatchlings mature and
return to Ascension to
complete the breeding
process.
In days of old, turtle corrals
(right) were built to store
turtles which provided meat
to passing ships.
We also hiked in the island's
Green Mountain Park. In contrast
to the moonscape terrain at sea
level, this tropical rain forest was
lush and green affording a
welcome respite from the heat.
The views from the higher
vantage point were terrific. We
took several of the marked "Post
Box Walks", trails which ended at
a "Post Box" where you signed in
and stamped a hiking
booklet.(left) We did make it to
the highest point on the island,
marked with an old ship's chain
(see David upper right). We
found huge red raspberries en
route and gorged ourselves.
Lower right is the Ascension Lily,
majestic and quite showy.
Green Mountain Park. In contrast
to the moonscape terrain at sea
level, this tropical rain forest was
lush and green affording a
welcome respite from the heat.
The views from the higher
vantage point were terrific. We
took several of the marked "Post
Box Walks", trails which ended at
a "Post Box" where you signed in
and stamped a hiking
booklet.(left) We did make it to
the highest point on the island,
marked with an old ship's chain
(see David upper right). We
found huge red raspberries en
route and gorged ourselves.
Lower right is the Ascension Lily,
majestic and quite showy.
Our best find on the island was Susanna Musick, an
American turtle biologist who had just arrived from the
States for a 2-year stint on the island. She came out to
"Cups" one night for pizza.
American turtle biologist who had just arrived from the
States for a 2-year stint on the island. She came out to
"Cups" one night for pizza.
We could have stayed at Ascension much longer. The weather was settled
and pleasant and there were several more hikes we could have taken, but it
was time to move on. The trip before us (nearly 5,000 nm) was going to be
long and it was time to get started. We checked out with Customs and
Immigration and David once again, hauled the anchor manually (that darned
windlass definitely needs replacing!) and off we sailed.
Lots of people ask what we do on such long passages to keep ourselves from
getting bored. It seems there is usually plenty to do...repairs (always),
cooking, reading, keeping up with e-mails and my photo-journal, a myriad of
celebrations. See below a sampling of our en-route activities. Makes you
want to sail off into the sunset, doesn't it?
and pleasant and there were several more hikes we could have taken, but it
was time to move on. The trip before us (nearly 5,000 nm) was going to be
long and it was time to get started. We checked out with Customs and
Immigration and David once again, hauled the anchor manually (that darned
windlass definitely needs replacing!) and off we sailed.
Lots of people ask what we do on such long passages to keep ourselves from
getting bored. It seems there is usually plenty to do...repairs (always),
cooking, reading, keeping up with e-mails and my photo-journal, a myriad of
celebrations. See below a sampling of our en-route activities. Makes you
want to sail off into the sunset, doesn't it?
Then there's gardening aboard!
Celebrations take a good deal of time...the planning and then
the actual celebrating. We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn,
the Prime Meridian, the Equator and the Tropic of Cancer
during this trip...all causes for celebration. Above, David
toasts Neptune with a tot of rum as we cross the Equator.
the actual celebrating. We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn,
the Prime Meridian, the Equator and the Tropic of Cancer
during this trip...all causes for celebration. Above, David
toasts Neptune with a tot of rum as we cross the Equator.
We usually cook three meals a day. Towards the end of the trip, the
cook becomes a bit more imaginative with the provisions that are left.
Above, Jelly is giving Marcie some pointers...more fish, less veggies,
please!
cook becomes a bit more imaginative with the provisions that are left.
Above, Jelly is giving Marcie some pointers...more fish, less veggies,
please!
We arrived in Charleston, SC on 2 May...72 days after leaving Cape
Town...a total of 60 days at sea. Heading up the river to the Charleston
Maritime Center was like coming home. The staff, whom we hadn't seen for
four years, was waiting for us and welcomed us warmly. This "tied the knot"
for our South American circumnavigation. Charleston to Charleston,
including that side trip to Easter Island, totalled 30,723 nm. Not bad for
amateurs like us.
Town...a total of 60 days at sea. Heading up the river to the Charleston
Maritime Center was like coming home. The staff, whom we hadn't seen for
four years, was waiting for us and welcomed us warmly. This "tied the knot"
for our South American circumnavigation. Charleston to Charleston,
including that side trip to Easter Island, totalled 30,723 nm. Not bad for
amateurs like us.
The final GPS reading when we arrived at the
marina in Charleston... 7150 nm.
marina in Charleston... 7150 nm.
It so happened that the Tallships arrived within days of our
arrival and we were afforded the privilege of staying at the
marina midst these majestic vessels.
arrival and we were afforded the privilege of staying at the
marina midst these majestic vessels.
The only pirates we saw on the entire trip were the polite ones
from the local pirate camp that boarded us ONLY after making an
appointment!
from the local pirate camp that boarded us ONLY after making an
appointment!
"Cups" and crew rested at the Charleston Maritime Center until
mid-May then it was time to bring her to Bristol, RI for a
summer mooring and some well-deserved maintenance and
repairs.
What's next? Stay tuned...we'll let you know when we figure it
out ourselves!
mid-May then it was time to bring her to Bristol, RI for a
summer mooring and some well-deserved maintenance and
repairs.
What's next? Stay tuned...we'll let you know when we figure it
out ourselves!