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Holiday 2006 Edition
2006! Nah, it can't be 2006 because that would mean we spent ANOTHER year in South America! Oh, no...we DID spend another year in South America, but we have finally moved on to a new continent...AFRICA!!!
No pierced ear for captain
On 12 February 2006, Nine of Cups and crew rounded Cape Horn, the southernmost tip of South America. In days of old, this was a dreaded passage, however with all of our modern technology we had the luxury of waiting for a good weather window, then proceeding around the Horn and anchoring until the weather was good enough to head back. Still, it was a bit dicey at times with 45 knot winds. With a shorthanded crew of 2-1/2, we could not stop at the famous lighthouse, but we waved sailing past.Though the first mate had secured a gold earring for the captain, she couldn't convince him to pierce his ear in the traditional manner. Maybe for the Cape of Good Hope???
We're happy, still madly in love, relatively healthy and definitely older...and wearing out more quickly than we'd like. As always, our wish to friends and family is health, wealth and happiness and the time to enjoy them all. Please keep in touch...
nine of cups1@yahoo.com
While in Ushuaia, Argentina, we found out about last minute fares on an explorer vessel to Antarctica. The 10-day roundtrip aboard "The Little Red Ship" was absolutely fantastic with 11 Zodiac landings ashore. Jelly and Cups stayed on a mooring in Ushuaia.
We saw seals, whales, lots of penguins, a myriad of seabirds including albatross and girant petrels and lots of ice and glaciers. It was otherworldly and a trip of a lifetime.
Yes...finally...bet you thought we'd never leave. Other than the three Guianas in the North and Brazil, we visited every country in South America over the past 3 years. What a trip! We'll hit Brazil the NEXT time around. Leaving is bittersweet. We'll miss all the wonderful friends we've made, but we look forward to new adventures in Dark Continent.
Total nautical miles: 32,905
Total countries visited: 27
Total continents visited by crew: 5
(but we got the hard one out of the way!)
Keel damage repaired, two new coats of anti-fouling paint applied, varnish stripped and redone, annual maintenance performed and lists and lists of other chores completed, we were off again. This time, our first complete trans-oceanic passage...across the South Atlantic Ocean to Africa.
Increases Dramatically
In a masterful effort to increase reading among penguins, the British have installed several historical markers on obscure islands in Antarctica. It was established after a millon dollar research project showed that penguins were not reading because there was no suitable reading material. The problem has been resolved
Visiting Ushuaia, Argentina in Tierra del Fuelgo netted us a great passport stamp touting it as the most southern "city" in the world. Moving to Puerto Williams, Chile across the Beagle Channel, we were in the most southern "municipality" in the world. Ah, but then on our way to Cape Horn, we stopped at Puerto Toro, the most southern "village" in the world. Our visit to Port Lockroy was the southern most "post office" in the world. The best, however, was the Ukranian Vernadsky station...the most southern "bar" on the planet where we drank ...vodka, of course.
Ostrich-like nandus roam wild on the pampas of Argentina and it was not uncommon to see them sharing their turf with cattle and sheep.
On our Home page,
click on "Where are we?" to see our up-to-date location even
when we're at sea.
Crew's reading recommendations for the year: "The Kite Runner", "Wicked", "Terra Incognita" and "1421".
Clever, cute and cuddly, they're called coati here (cotamundi other places) and they were everywhere in Iguazu Falls National Park, Argentina. Kind of a cross between a raccoon and an anteater, these little critters get into everything and hence signs throughout the park...Don't Feed the Coati!
Taking the bus in the USA is a rarity, but here in South America where fewer people own their own cars, buses aer key to the transportation system. Bus travel includes full sleepers with footrests, champagne and wine servcie along with hot meals, pillows and blankets.
It took two full days to get to Puerto Iguazu, the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls. Though it was the "dry season" we certainly saw lots of water at this natural spectacle.
Crosses Atlantic!
Remember the fun house at the amusement park when you were a kid? The house that Jack built with its uneven floors at difficult angles always fascinated me, but try living, eating, sleeping and cooking on a heel like that for more than a month! At the end of our trip, all of us, Jelly included, had a definite list to starboard.
Remotest Island
Named after the Portugese fellow who discovered it back in 1506, Tristan da Cunha is THE most remote inhabited island in the world. It is located some 1,500 miles from South Africa. We seem attracted to such islands for some reason and graced by good weather, visited for two magical days. With a population of about 300, these hardy souls cling to a small piece of land on the side of a 7,000' volcano sticking up out of the South Atlantic. Below, a view of Inaccessible Island from Tristan's famous potato "patches".
Who could have known that our wonder cat would excel at gardening? Living in Uruguay in a casita for couple of months while Cups was on the hard, gave Jelly a chance to try out her green paw. She dug and dug and fertilized regularly and voila...lots of green.
Not having had to share her turf with other cats in the past, she was not about to start sharing now...even though she was the new-comer and didn't speak Spanish. She patrolled her territory with the grace of a queen and nary another cat or bird or moth lingered long.
Prior to visiting Tristan da Cunha, we "met" Andy Repetto, the island's radio HAM, via email. We spoke with Andy daily on our trip so when we arrived, it felt like we were meeting an old friend. Andy and his wife, Lorraine, gave us the royal treatment...a tour of the island, the tiny museum, lunch at their home and generous gifts of Tristan lobsters, "taters", beef, mutton and cider. We now have friends in the remotest places!
The 35 days to cross the huge expanse of the South Atlantic Ocean afforded us lots of opportunities to view amazing sunsets. Above, the silhouettes of albatross as they search for dinner. We managed one green flash!
Cups and crew arrived in warm, sunny Cape Town on 21 December just in time for Christmas. The last 18-24 hours was a slog with 35 knot winds on the nose and rough seas, but oh the view of Table Mountain awaiting us as we sailed into the harbor.
Marcie, David and Jelly