| Volume 5 Holiday 2006 Edition |
Letter from the crew...
2006! Nah, it can't be 2006
because that would mean we
spent ANOTHER year in South
America! Oh, no...we DID
spend another year in South
America, but we have finally
moved on to a new
continent...AFRICA!!!
2006! Nah, it can't be 2006
because that would mean we
spent ANOTHER year in South
America! Oh, no...we DID
spend another year in South
America, but we have finally
moved on to a new
continent...AFRICA!!!
Cups Rounds the Horn!
No pierced ear for captain
On 12 February 2006, Nine of
Cups and crew rounded Cape
Horn, the southernmost tip of South
America. In days of old, this was a
dreaded passage, however with all
of our modern technology we had
the luxury of waiting for a good
weather window, then proceeding
around the Horn and anchoring until
the weather was good enough to
head back. Still, it was a bit dicey
at times with 45 knot winds. With a
shorthanded crew of 2-1/2, we
could not stop at the famous
lighthouse, but we waved sailing
past.Though the first mate had
secured a gold earring for the
captain, she couldn't convince him
to pierce his ear in the traditional
manner. Maybe for the Cape of
Good Hope???
No pierced ear for captain
On 12 February 2006, Nine of
Cups and crew rounded Cape
Horn, the southernmost tip of South
America. In days of old, this was a
dreaded passage, however with all
of our modern technology we had
the luxury of waiting for a good
weather window, then proceeding
around the Horn and anchoring until
the weather was good enough to
head back. Still, it was a bit dicey
at times with 45 knot winds. With a
shorthanded crew of 2-1/2, we
could not stop at the famous
lighthouse, but we waved sailing
past.Though the first mate had
secured a gold earring for the
captain, she couldn't convince him
to pierce his ear in the traditional
manner. Maybe for the Cape of
Good Hope???
White Continent Visit
While in Ushuaia, Argentina, we
found out about last minute fares on
an explorer vessel to Antarctica. The
10-day roundtrip aboard "The Little
Red Ship" was absolutely fantastic
with 11 Zodiac landings ashore. Jelly
and Cups stayed on a mooring in
Ushuaia.
We saw seals, whales, lots of
penguins, a myriad of seabirds
including albatross and girant petrels
and lots of ice and glaciers. It was
otherworldly and a trip of a lifetime.
While in Ushuaia, Argentina, we
found out about last minute fares on
an explorer vessel to Antarctica. The
10-day roundtrip aboard "The Little
Red Ship" was absolutely fantastic
with 11 Zodiac landings ashore. Jelly
and Cups stayed on a mooring in
Ushuaia.
We saw seals, whales, lots of
penguins, a myriad of seabirds
including albatross and girant petrels
and lots of ice and glaciers. It was
otherworldly and a trip of a lifetime.
This, our 5th annual newsletter,
sent to you from sunny, warm
Cape Town, South Africa,
allows us to share with you
some of the highlights of 2006
from our perspective. It also
proves we finally left South
America! We have always
documented our voayages
extensively with "Passages",our
photojournal, and long letters
home. In this our 7th year
aboard (and you thought we
wouldn't last year!), each place
is still special to us.
We're happy, still madly in
love, relatively healthy and
definitely older...and wearing
out more quickly than we'd like.
As always, our wish to friends
and family is health, wealth and
happiness and the time to enjoy
them all. Please keep in touch...
nine of cups1@yahoo.com
sent to you from sunny, warm
Cape Town, South Africa,
allows us to share with you
some of the highlights of 2006
from our perspective. It also
proves we finally left South
America! We have always
documented our voayages
extensively with "Passages",our
photojournal, and long letters
home. In this our 7th year
aboard (and you thought we
wouldn't last year!), each place
is still special to us.
We're happy, still madly in
love, relatively healthy and
definitely older...and wearing
out more quickly than we'd like.
As always, our wish to friends
and family is health, wealth and
happiness and the time to enjoy
them all. Please keep in touch...
nine of cups1@yahoo.com
| A Fuegian surnise at Caleta Martial, Tierra del Fuego Chile, a stone's throw from Cape Horn. |
After a year in the water and some
keel damage in the Patagonian canals
due to a surprise encounter with
some rocks (surprise for us, the
rocks saw us coming), we hauled
Cups in Piriapolis, Uruguay where
she remained high and dry for nearly
five months.
Keel damage repaired, two new
coats of anti-fouling paint applied,
varnish stripped and redone, annual
maintenance performed and lists and
lists of other chores completed, we
were off again. This time, our first
complete trans-oceanic
passage...across the South Atlantic
Ocean to Africa.
keel damage in the Patagonian canals
due to a surprise encounter with
some rocks (surprise for us, the
rocks saw us coming), we hauled
Cups in Piriapolis, Uruguay where
she remained high and dry for nearly
five months.
Keel damage repaired, two new
coats of anti-fouling paint applied,
varnish stripped and redone, annual
maintenance performed and lists and
lists of other chores completed, we
were off again. This time, our first
complete trans-oceanic
passage...across the South Atlantic
Ocean to Africa.
| High and Dry in Uruguay |
| Cups on the hard at Puerto Piriapolis, Uruguay. |
| Keeping Warm |
Well-Heeled Crew
Crosses Atlantic!
Remember the fun house at the
amusement park when you were a
kid? The house that Jack built with
its uneven floors at difficult angles
always fascinated me, but try
living, eating, sleeping and
cooking on a heel like that for
more than a month! At the end of
our trip, all of us, Jelly included,
had a definite list to starboard.
Crosses Atlantic!
Remember the fun house at the
amusement park when you were a
kid? The house that Jack built with
its uneven floors at difficult angles
always fascinated me, but try
living, eating, sleeping and
cooking on a heel like that for
more than a month! At the end of
our trip, all of us, Jelly included,
had a definite list to starboard.
| Where in the world is NOC? On our Home page, click on "Where are we?" to see our up-to-date location even when we're at sea. |
Photo above drinking vodka at
Akademik Vernadsky, Ukranian Base,
Antarctica.
Akademik Vernadsky, Ukranian Base,
Antarctica.
Leaving South America
Yes...finally...bet you thought we'd
never leave. Other than the three
Guianas in the North and Brazil, we
visited every country in South America
over the past 3 years. What a trip!
We'll hit Brazil the NEXT time around.
Leaving is bittersweet. We'll miss all
the wonderful friends we've made, but
we look forward to new adventures in
Dark Continent.
Yes...finally...bet you thought we'd
never leave. Other than the three
Guianas in the North and Brazil, we
visited every country in South America
over the past 3 years. What a trip!
We'll hit Brazil the NEXT time around.
Leaving is bittersweet. We'll miss all
the wonderful friends we've made, but
we look forward to new adventures in
Dark Continent.
| YTD 2006 miles: 7,011 Total nautical miles: 32,905 Total countries visited: 27 Total continents visited by crew: 5 (but we got the hard one out of the way!) |
BC and Hannah Hit BsAs
Brennan and his fiance, Hannah
Connor, flew to Montevideo for a
week to visit. After a quick tour
of coastal Uruguay, we headed to
Buenos Aires to enjoy the city,
Argentine beef, wine and each
other's company. Fantastico!!
Connor, flew to Montevideo for a
week to visit. After a quick tour
of coastal Uruguay, we headed to
Buenos Aires to enjoy the city,
Argentine beef, wine and each
other's company. Fantastico!!
Penguin Literacy Rate
Increases Dramatically
In a masterful effort to increase reading
among penguins, the British have
installed several historical markers on
obscure islands in Antarctica. It was
established after a millon dollar
research project showed that penguins
were not reading because there was no
suitable reading material. The problem
has been resolved
Increases Dramatically
In a masterful effort to increase reading
among penguins, the British have
installed several historical markers on
obscure islands in Antarctica. It was
established after a millon dollar
research project showed that penguins
were not reading because there was no
suitable reading material. The problem
has been resolved
How South Can You Be?
Visiting Ushuaia, Argentina in
Tierra del Fuelgo netted us a great
passport stamp touting it as the
most southern "city" in the world.
Moving to Puerto Williams, Chile
across the Beagle Channel, we
were in the most southern
"municipality" in the world. Ah, but
then on our way to Cape Horn,
we stopped at Puerto Toro, the
most southern "village" in the
world. Our visit to Port Lockroy
was the southern most "post
office" in the world. The best,
however, was the Ukranian
Vernadsky station...the most
southern "bar" on the planet where
we drank ...vodka, of course.
Visiting Ushuaia, Argentina in
Tierra del Fuelgo netted us a great
passport stamp touting it as the
most southern "city" in the world.
Moving to Puerto Williams, Chile
across the Beagle Channel, we
were in the most southern
"municipality" in the world. Ah, but
then on our way to Cape Horn,
we stopped at Puerto Toro, the
most southern "village" in the
world. Our visit to Port Lockroy
was the southern most "post
office" in the world. The best,
however, was the Ukranian
Vernadsky station...the most
southern "bar" on the planet where
we drank ...vodka, of course.
Nandus Rule!
Ostrich-like nandus roam wild on
the pampas of Argentina and it
was not uncommon to see them
sharing their turf with cattle and
sheep.
Ostrich-like nandus roam wild on
the pampas of Argentina and it
was not uncommon to see them
sharing their turf with cattle and
sheep.
Diversions...In addition to reading a
lot, we play games. Yatzee, gin rummy,
canasta and cribbage lead the list. And,
of course, we maintain a score sheet.
At the end of December 2006, the tally
is pretty close. Marcie: 1165 and
David: 1190
Crew's reading recommendations for
the year: "The Kite Runner", "Wicked",
"Terra Incognita" and "1421".
lot, we play games. Yatzee, gin rummy,
canasta and cribbage lead the list. And,
of course, we maintain a score sheet.
At the end of December 2006, the tally
is pretty close. Marcie: 1165 and
David: 1190
Crew's reading recommendations for
the year: "The Kite Runner", "Wicked",
"Terra Incognita" and "1421".
A visit to Buenos Aires is not
complete without trying to dance the
tango, the country's national dance.
David looked suave as he donned a
black fedora and tore up the dance
floor.
complete without trying to dance the
tango, the country's national dance.
David looked suave as he donned a
black fedora and tore up the dance
floor.
Tango Man
Don't Feed the Coati
Clever, cute and cuddly, they're
called coati here (cotamundi
other places) and they were
everywhere in Iguazu Falls
National Park, Argentina. Kind
of a cross between a raccoon
and an anteater, these little
critters get into everything and
hence signs throughout the
park...Don't Feed the Coati!
Clever, cute and cuddly, they're
called coati here (cotamundi
other places) and they were
everywhere in Iguazu Falls
National Park, Argentina. Kind
of a cross between a raccoon
and an anteater, these little
critters get into everything and
hence signs throughout the
park...Don't Feed the Coati!
Bussing It to Iguazu Falls
Taking the bus in the USA is a rarity,
but here in South America where fewer
people own their own cars, buses aer
key to the transportation system. Bus
travel includes full sleepers with
footrests, champagne and wine servcie
along with hot meals, pillows and
blankets.
It took two full days to get to Puerto
Iguazu, the Argentine side of the Iguazu
Falls. Though it was the "dry season"
we certainly saw lots of water at this
natural spectacle.
Taking the bus in the USA is a rarity,
but here in South America where fewer
people own their own cars, buses aer
key to the transportation system. Bus
travel includes full sleepers with
footrests, champagne and wine servcie
along with hot meals, pillows and
blankets.
It took two full days to get to Puerto
Iguazu, the Argentine side of the Iguazu
Falls. Though it was the "dry season"
we certainly saw lots of water at this
natural spectacle.
Brr! Sailing in the high latitudes is
chilly in Chile and Argentina. The
cold Humboldt Current and strong,
constant Antarctic winds contribute
to cold days and nights. In
anticipation, we constructed a
cockpit enclosure hoping to take
advantage of some greenhouse
effect. David installed a new bus
heater, but it only worked when the
engine was running. We wore lots
of layers of clothing, but woke
many mornings with frost on our
pumpkins and snow on deck..
Thank God we had our love to
keep us warm!
chilly in Chile and Argentina. The
cold Humboldt Current and strong,
constant Antarctic winds contribute
to cold days and nights. In
anticipation, we constructed a
cockpit enclosure hoping to take
advantage of some greenhouse
effect. David installed a new bus
heater, but it only worked when the
engine was running. We wore lots
of layers of clothing, but woke
many mornings with frost on our
pumpkins and snow on deck..
Thank God we had our love to
keep us warm!
Jelly Tries Gardening
Who could have known that our
wonder cat would excel at
gardening? Living in Uruguay in a
casita for couple of months while
Cups was on the hard, gave Jelly a
chance to try out her green paw.
She dug and dug and fertilized
regularly and voila...lots of green.
Not having had to share her turf
with other cats in the past, she was
not about to start sharing now...even
though she was the new-comer and
didn't speak Spanish. She patrolled
her territory with the grace of a
queen and nary another cat or bird
or moth lingered long.
Who could have known that our
wonder cat would excel at
gardening? Living in Uruguay in a
casita for couple of months while
Cups was on the hard, gave Jelly a
chance to try out her green paw.
She dug and dug and fertilized
regularly and voila...lots of green.
Not having had to share her turf
with other cats in the past, she was
not about to start sharing now...even
though she was the new-comer and
didn't speak Spanish. She patrolled
her territory with the grace of a
queen and nary another cat or bird
or moth lingered long.
Cups Visits World's
Remotest Island
Named after the Portugese fellow
who discovered it back in 1506,
Tristan da Cunha is THE most
remote inhabited island in the
world. It is located some 1,500
miles from South Africa. We seem
attracted to such islands for some
reason and graced by good
weather, visited for two magical
days. With a population of about
300, these hardy souls cling to a
small piece of land on the side of a
7,000' volcano sticking up out of
the South Atlantic. Below, a view
of Inaccessible Island from Tristan's
famous potato "patches".
Remotest Island
Named after the Portugese fellow
who discovered it back in 1506,
Tristan da Cunha is THE most
remote inhabited island in the
world. It is located some 1,500
miles from South Africa. We seem
attracted to such islands for some
reason and graced by good
weather, visited for two magical
days. With a population of about
300, these hardy souls cling to a
small piece of land on the side of a
7,000' volcano sticking up out of
the South Atlantic. Below, a view
of Inaccessible Island from Tristan's
famous potato "patches".
Hospitality Unbounded
Prior to visiting Tristan da
Cunha, we "met" Andy
Repetto, the island's radio
HAM, via email. We spoke
with Andy daily on our trip so
when we arrived, it felt like we
were meeting an old friend.
Andy and his wife, Lorraine,
gave us the royal treatment...a
tour of the island, the tiny
museum, lunch at their home
and generous gifts of Tristan
lobsters, "taters", beef, mutton
and cider. We now have
friends in the remotest places!
Prior to visiting Tristan da
Cunha, we "met" Andy
Repetto, the island's radio
HAM, via email. We spoke
with Andy daily on our trip so
when we arrived, it felt like we
were meeting an old friend.
Andy and his wife, Lorraine,
gave us the royal treatment...a
tour of the island, the tiny
museum, lunch at their home
and generous gifts of Tristan
lobsters, "taters", beef, mutton
and cider. We now have
friends in the remotest places!
| Celebrations at Sea |
Glorious South Atlantic Sunsets
The 35 days to cross the huge expanse of
the South Atlantic Ocean afforded us lots
of opportunities to view amazing sunsets.
Above, the silhouettes of albatross as
they search for dinner. We managed one
green flash!
The 35 days to cross the huge expanse of
the South Atlantic Ocean afforded us lots
of opportunities to view amazing sunsets.
Above, the silhouettes of albatross as
they search for dinner. We managed one
green flash!
Being at sea for over a month,
it's sometimes hard to remember
what day it is, so we look for
any reason to celebrate. We left
Uruguay a day before Marcie's
birthday and were seasick for
the celebration. Marcie declared
a re-birthday a few days later
and celebrated in style with a
scrimshawed tagua pendant
which David carved. Other
celebrations en route included
Thanksgiving, GMT Day, Prime
Meridian Day, each 1,000 miles
sailed, Tristan Day and 1,000
miles left to Cape Town Day.
All in all, a rather celebratory
trip!
it's sometimes hard to remember
what day it is, so we look for
any reason to celebrate. We left
Uruguay a day before Marcie's
birthday and were seasick for
the celebration. Marcie declared
a re-birthday a few days later
and celebrated in style with a
scrimshawed tagua pendant
which David carved. Other
celebrations en route included
Thanksgiving, GMT Day, Prime
Meridian Day, each 1,000 miles
sailed, Tristan Day and 1,000
miles left to Cape Town Day.
All in all, a rather celebratory
trip!
Arrival in South Africa
Cups and crew arrived in warm,
sunny Cape Town on 21
December just in time for
Christmas. The last 18-24 hours
was a slog with 35 knot winds on
the nose and rough seas, but oh
the view of Table Mountain
awaiting us as we sailed into the
harbor.
Cups and crew arrived in warm,
sunny Cape Town on 21
December just in time for
Christmas. The last 18-24 hours
was a slog with 35 knot winds on
the nose and rough seas, but oh
the view of Table Mountain
awaiting us as we sailed into the
harbor.
| Happy 2007! Marcie, David and Jelly |