| Volume 6 Holiday 2007 Edition |
Letter from the crew...
2007 was quite the year for us. We
celebrated New Year's in South Africa and
subsequently toured that fabulous country
as well as neighboring Namibia for some
outstanding wildlife viewing.
2007 was quite the year for us. We
celebrated New Year's in South Africa and
subsequently toured that fabulous country
as well as neighboring Namibia for some
outstanding wildlife viewing.
Pirate Attack in Charleston!
We're often asked whether we've been
attacked by pirates and everyone seems
disappointed when we say "no". Well, now
we can honestly "yes, we have been attacked
by pirates in Charleston, SC." These were
very polite pirates, however, who stopped
by in advance and scheduled an attack for
the next morning at 10:00am, which
happened to coincide with the opening of
the gates for the crowds viewing the
Tallships at the Charleston Maritime Center.
We're often asked whether we've been
attacked by pirates and everyone seems
disappointed when we say "no". Well, now
we can honestly "yes, we have been attacked
by pirates in Charleston, SC." These were
very polite pirates, however, who stopped
by in advance and scheduled an attack for
the next morning at 10:00am, which
happened to coincide with the opening of
the gates for the crowds viewing the
Tallships at the Charleston Maritime Center.
Repairs Underway
What do we do when we're underway and
something breaks? Hmm...we fix it if we can. A
seam let loose on the jib during our South
Atlantic crossing and needed some stitching. We
hauled the sewing machine on deck, took down
the jib and sewed away, making repairs which
lasted till we found a sailmaker back in New
England. David fixed wind generators, chafed
lines, bilge pumps, autopilots...the list goes on
and on and there's always more to do.
What do we do when we're underway and
something breaks? Hmm...we fix it if we can. A
seam let loose on the jib during our South
Atlantic crossing and needed some stitching. We
hauled the sewing machine on deck, took down
the jib and sewed away, making repairs which
lasted till we found a sailmaker back in New
England. David fixed wind generators, chafed
lines, bilge pumps, autopilots...the list goes on
and on and there's always more to do.
We visited remote St. Helena and
Ascension Islands in the South Atlantic
on our 7,150 mile voyage from Cape
Town to Charleston then moved Cups
and crew back to New England for a
glorious summer visit. Several events
highlighted our time back in the USA,
most prominent of which was Brennan's
marriage to Hannah on 11 August.
This, our 6th annual newsletter, allows
us to share with you some of the
highlights of 2007 from our
perspective. In our eighth year aboard,
we're still in love with this gypsy way
of life. Wanderlust is still strong and
"Cups" is our home.
We're as happy as two people in love
can be and as healthy as two old salts
just shy of their sixties can expect.
As always, our wish to family and
friends in 2008 is health, wealth, love
and happiness and the time to enjoy
them all.
Ascension Islands in the South Atlantic
on our 7,150 mile voyage from Cape
Town to Charleston then moved Cups
and crew back to New England for a
glorious summer visit. Several events
highlighted our time back in the USA,
most prominent of which was Brennan's
marriage to Hannah on 11 August.
This, our 6th annual newsletter, allows
us to share with you some of the
highlights of 2007 from our
perspective. In our eighth year aboard,
we're still in love with this gypsy way
of life. Wanderlust is still strong and
"Cups" is our home.
We're as happy as two people in love
can be and as healthy as two old salts
just shy of their sixties can expect.
As always, our wish to family and
friends in 2008 is health, wealth, love
and happiness and the time to enjoy
them all.
| Brendan & Loesje Boyle |
Bea (Marcie's mom, left) and Becky (David's
mom, right) celebrated the grandkids' nuptials
at the Fenwick Farm in Butler, Maryland.
Following the wedding, we enjoyed ten days of
touring in Pennslyvania with Becky. Later in
August, we helped Bea relocate back to
Massachusettes after 30 years in Florida to her
new apartment in Mansfield, MA, minutes
away from Lin.
We flew to Denver in September to visit kids
and grandkids with a sidetrip to Laramie,
Wyoming to visit niece Gentry and family.
We celebrated Becky's 90th birthday with her
in Las Vegas. Midst other family members,
her 102 year old sister Edna also flew in from
California. When offered a chance to pose
with a couple of Chippendale hunks, the girls
declined stating "No thanks, they're not that
great looking!".
mom, right) celebrated the grandkids' nuptials
at the Fenwick Farm in Butler, Maryland.
Following the wedding, we enjoyed ten days of
touring in Pennslyvania with Becky. Later in
August, we helped Bea relocate back to
Massachusettes after 30 years in Florida to her
new apartment in Mansfield, MA, minutes
away from Lin.
We flew to Denver in September to visit kids
and grandkids with a sidetrip to Laramie,
Wyoming to visit niece Gentry and family.
We celebrated Becky's 90th birthday with her
in Las Vegas. Midst other family members,
her 102 year old sister Edna also flew in from
California. When offered a chance to pose
with a couple of Chippendale hunks, the girls
declined stating "No thanks, they're not that
great looking!".
| Family Times |
| Etosha Pan |
Someone has to
Direct Traffic!
Because of budget constraints, South
Africa has very few traffic cops available. In
an effort to keep baboons off the dole,
they've been hired to direct traffic in
congetsed roundabout areas. NOT!!
As always, we love observing the local
animals. We had seen many a sign warning us
"Don't Feed the Baboons", but hadn't seen
any baboons. That all changed at Cape Point
when we saw whole bands of Chacma
baboons cavorting across the countryside.
They're more curious than shy and exhibit
very human-like characteristics. We had one
waiting for us on top of our rental car when
we returned to it. He left begrudgingly and
only after leaving lots of footprints on the
roof and windshield.
Direct Traffic!
Because of budget constraints, South
Africa has very few traffic cops available. In
an effort to keep baboons off the dole,
they've been hired to direct traffic in
congetsed roundabout areas. NOT!!
As always, we love observing the local
animals. We had seen many a sign warning us
"Don't Feed the Baboons", but hadn't seen
any baboons. That all changed at Cape Point
when we saw whole bands of Chacma
baboons cavorting across the countryside.
They're more curious than shy and exhibit
very human-like characteristics. We had one
waiting for us on top of our rental car when
we returned to it. He left begrudgingly and
only after leaving lots of footprints on the
roof and windshield.
| Where in the world is NOC? On our Home page, click on "Where are we?" to see our up-to-date location even when we're at sea. |
Photo of Marcie and David above at
the Cape of good Hope, Cape Point
National Park, Suth Africa.
the Cape of good Hope, Cape Point
National Park, Suth Africa.
Nine of Cups Three Month Rule
It seems that in our travels, something
spectacular happens about every three
months, like meeting the Ravagos in Lima, the
Submarino Simpson at Easter Island, the
Repettos in Tristan da Cunha, and the Leggs
at St. Helena. We continue to be amazed by
our good luck and the graciousness of people
who have befriended us.
It seems that in our travels, something
spectacular happens about every three
months, like meeting the Ravagos in Lima, the
Submarino Simpson at Easter Island, the
Repettos in Tristan da Cunha, and the Leggs
at St. Helena. We continue to be amazed by
our good luck and the graciousness of people
who have befriended us.
| YTD 2007 miles: 9,856 Total nautical miles: 42,761 Total countries visited: 29 Total continents visited by crew: 5 |
Brennan and Hannah:
"We Do!"
"We Do!"
They say nothing goes to wind like a 747
and that was the original plan. But sailing
home from South Africa was quite the
adventure for us and we're glad we did it in
spite of the time it took. The 7,150 nautical
mile journey was terrific and afforded us the
opportunity to visit the out of the way
islands of St.Helena and Ascension in the
South Atlantic. It was also our longest
passage to date and our second Atlantic
crossing in less than a year.
We left Cape Town on February 20th and
arrived in Charleston, SC, USA on 2 May,
2007: a total of 72 days, 60 of which were
spent at sea.
and that was the original plan. But sailing
home from South Africa was quite the
adventure for us and we're glad we did it in
spite of the time it took. The 7,150 nautical
mile journey was terrific and afforded us the
opportunity to visit the out of the way
islands of St.Helena and Ascension in the
South Atlantic. It was also our longest
passage to date and our second Atlantic
crossing in less than a year.
We left Cape Town on February 20th and
arrived in Charleston, SC, USA on 2 May,
2007: a total of 72 days, 60 of which were
spent at sea.
Diversions...In addition to reading
hundreds of books, we continue to
play games aboard. Though Yatzee,
gin rummy and cribbage lead the
list, Marcie has found that Speed
Scrabble is her forte and opts for it
whenever possible. Of course we
still maintain score sheets. At the
end of November, the tally is
Marcie: 1306 and David: 1306.
Crew's oustanding book nominees
for the year: "Country of the Pointed
Firs", and "Empire Falls".
hundreds of books, we continue to
play games aboard. Though Yatzee,
gin rummy and cribbage lead the
list, Marcie has found that Speed
Scrabble is her forte and opts for it
whenever possible. Of course we
still maintain score sheets. At the
end of November, the tally is
Marcie: 1306 and David: 1306.
Crew's oustanding book nominees
for the year: "Country of the Pointed
Firs", and "Empire Falls".
During our road trip to Namibia, we
visited the Namib Desert and Sussuvlei
National Park, site of the largest sand
dunes in the world. Above, David climbs
Dune 45, located 45km from the park
entrance.
visited the Namib Desert and Sussuvlei
National Park, site of the largest sand
dunes in the world. Above, David climbs
Dune 45, located 45km from the park
entrance.
Etosha National Park was the highlight of
our Namibia trip. The "pan", a huge salt flat
which floods during the rainy season and
dries out the rest of the year, is home to a
vast population of indigenous animals
including the Big Five (lion, water buffalo,
leopard, black rhino and elephant). We
stayed in small, tidy thatched huts within
huge fenced compounds where WE were
locked in at nights. We breakfasted with
zebras, relaxed in the shade with lions,
watched meerkat sentries on guard and
giggled at the giraffes, legs splayed wide,
trying to drink in the shallow pools of water.
Our biggest complaint was that as usual,
we ran out of time. We could have spent
months here exploring and re-explorng all
there was to see. Our sampling simply
served to whet our appetites for more next
time.
our Namibia trip. The "pan", a huge salt flat
which floods during the rainy season and
dries out the rest of the year, is home to a
vast population of indigenous animals
including the Big Five (lion, water buffalo,
leopard, black rhino and elephant). We
stayed in small, tidy thatched huts within
huge fenced compounds where WE were
locked in at nights. We breakfasted with
zebras, relaxed in the shade with lions,
watched meerkat sentries on guard and
giggled at the giraffes, legs splayed wide,
trying to drink in the shallow pools of water.
Our biggest complaint was that as usual,
we ran out of time. We could have spent
months here exploring and re-explorng all
there was to see. Our sampling simply
served to whet our appetites for more next
time.
Table Mountain Tops
Well, we did it backwards. You're supposed to
hike UP Table Montain and take the cable car
back down. We planned to cable up and down,
but of course changed our minds when we saw
a benign -looking path leading down the
mountain. How hard could it be? It was all
down.
We managed to get half way down before
Marcie's knees were about to give out. We
know better than this...come on!! With
David's help, she slowly stumbled her way
down, relieved when the flat terrain at the base
was finally reached. Her knees ached for days
and all but two toenails were lost...not a
pretty picture. Getting old maybe? Despite
aches and pains, the views were stupendous.
Well, we did it backwards. You're supposed to
hike UP Table Montain and take the cable car
back down. We planned to cable up and down,
but of course changed our minds when we saw
a benign -looking path leading down the
mountain. How hard could it be? It was all
down.
We managed to get half way down before
Marcie's knees were about to give out. We
know better than this...come on!! With
David's help, she slowly stumbled her way
down, relieved when the flat terrain at the base
was finally reached. Her knees ached for days
and all but two toenails were lost...not a
pretty picture. Getting old maybe? Despite
aches and pains, the views were stupendous.
Napoleon Didn't
Have It So Bad!
If you had to be exiled somewhere, St.
Helena Island in the middle of the South
Atlantic wouldn't be the worst place to be.
The British stashed Napoleon here from
1815 until his death in 1821. His
comfortable home, Longwood, remains under
the protection of the French consulate in St.
Helena and we were required to have
permission from the French to visit.
Napoleon's tomb is located in the lush Sane
Valley although his remains were taken back
to Paris in 1840. Below, Marcie takes a
refreshing sip of cool water from a banana
leaf.
Have It So Bad!
If you had to be exiled somewhere, St.
Helena Island in the middle of the South
Atlantic wouldn't be the worst place to be.
The British stashed Napoleon here from
1815 until his death in 1821. His
comfortable home, Longwood, remains under
the protection of the French consulate in St.
Helena and we were required to have
permission from the French to visit.
Napoleon's tomb is located in the lush Sane
Valley although his remains were taken back
to Paris in 1840. Below, Marcie takes a
refreshing sip of cool water from a banana
leaf.
Jelly Takes Early
Retirement!
With nary a glance backwards, Jelly has
swallowed the anchor...at least for the time
being. Cups and crew, in anticipation of
heading to non-cat friendly new Zealand,
were in a quandary as to what to do about
Jelly. Marcie's mom, Bea, recently relocated
back to her home state of Massachusetts,
generously offered to provide room, board
and TLC for Jelly in exchange for Jelly's fine
company. Last seen, Jelly was sprawled on
Bea's lap nibbling cat treats!
Retirement!
With nary a glance backwards, Jelly has
swallowed the anchor...at least for the time
being. Cups and crew, in anticipation of
heading to non-cat friendly new Zealand,
were in a quandary as to what to do about
Jelly. Marcie's mom, Bea, recently relocated
back to her home state of Massachusetts,
generously offered to provide room, board
and TLC for Jelly in exchange for Jelly's fine
company. Last seen, Jelly was sprawled on
Bea's lap nibbling cat treats!
| Land Ho! |
That's Gilbert Legg and his family to be
precise. We "met" Gilbert via radio and e-mail
en route to St. Helena. He and his partner, Joan
and their daughter, Juliana, were our most
gracious and hospitable hosts during our one
week stay at St. Helena.
We went "up country", touring forts, fields
and golf courses (yup, they have a 9-holer). We
had a picnic at Colin's Bar (above) and shared
magnificent views of the island we would have
never seen on our own, including a s sighting of
the rare wirebird, found only on St. Helena.
precise. We "met" Gilbert via radio and e-mail
en route to St. Helena. He and his partner, Joan
and their daughter, Juliana, were our most
gracious and hospitable hosts during our one
week stay at St. Helena.
We went "up country", touring forts, fields
and golf courses (yup, they have a 9-holer). We
had a picnic at Colin's Bar (above) and shared
magnificent views of the island we would have
never seen on our own, including a s sighting of
the rare wirebird, found only on St. Helena.
We swear that Jelly can smell land long before
we see it. She starts pacing and sniffing the air
and soon enough, land pops into view. Above,
she waits impatiently for us to anchor off the
steep-cliffed shores of St. Helena.
we see it. She starts pacing and sniffing the air
and soon enough, land pops into view. Above,
she waits impatiently for us to anchor off the
steep-cliffed shores of St. Helena.
St. Helena's
Welcoming Arch
The remote South Atlantic island of St.
Helena is crusty on the outside with cliffs
and volcanic rock, but lush and green on the
interior. Walking through Jamestown's city
arch built in 1832 was like walking into a
quaint Victorian town. St. Helenans call
themselves "Saints".
Welcoming Arch
The remote South Atlantic island of St.
Helena is crusty on the outside with cliffs
and volcanic rock, but lush and green on the
interior. Walking through Jamestown's city
arch built in 1832 was like walking into a
quaint Victorian town. St. Helenans call
themselves "Saints".
| Happy 2008! Marcie, David and Jelly |
Greeting New "Old" Friends
Our old Tamarac partner, Peter Boyle,
regretfully passed away some years ago. We
never got the chance to meet his South African
family though we felt as if we knew them from
Peter's stories. While in Cape Town, we
"renewed" our friendship with Peter's brother
Brendan and the rest of the Boyle family,
including Pat, his most delightful 90-year-old
mom.
Our old Tamarac partner, Peter Boyle,
regretfully passed away some years ago. We
never got the chance to meet his South African
family though we felt as if we knew them from
Peter's stories. While in Cape Town, we
"renewed" our friendship with Peter's brother
Brendan and the rest of the Boyle family,
including Pat, his most delightful 90-year-old
mom.
Changing Our Minds ... Again and
Again and Again!
In our previous lives, making a plan and
sticking to it seemed prudent. It was the right
thing to do,we thought. Not now though.
We've changed our minds so frequently that
even we can't keep up what we're doing until
we're actually doing it. Check the map to the
left. The original planned route in red had us
going through the Panama Canal to New
Zealand back in 2003-4. The blue line shows
where we actually went. Here we are heading
into 2008 and we think we might try for a
trans-Pacific crossing to New Zealand this
coming year with thoughts of continuing on for
a westabout circumnavigation. But don't hold
your breath...we might just change our minds!
Again and Again!
In our previous lives, making a plan and
sticking to it seemed prudent. It was the right
thing to do,we thought. Not now though.
We've changed our minds so frequently that
even we can't keep up what we're doing until
we're actually doing it. Check the map to the
left. The original planned route in red had us
going through the Panama Canal to New
Zealand back in 2003-4. The blue line shows
where we actually went. Here we are heading
into 2008 and we think we might try for a
trans-Pacific crossing to New Zealand this
coming year with thoughts of continuing on for
a westabout circumnavigation. But don't hold
your breath...we might just change our minds!
August 11, 2007
David of the Desert
V & A Waterfront
The lovely Victoria and Alfred Waterfront
in Cape Town is absolutely gorgeous. This
part of the working port is dedicated to
tourism and entertainment with a large
shopping mall and hundreds of outside
restaurants, bars and boutiques.
The lovely Victoria and Alfred Waterfront
in Cape Town is absolutely gorgeous. This
part of the working port is dedicated to
tourism and entertainment with a large
shopping mall and hundreds of outside
restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Jackass Penguins?
Boulders Beach near Simon's Town offers
visitors the chance to swim with Penguins (if
you can stand the smell and poop). African
penguins, formerly known as jackass penguins
because of their donkey-like bray, moved in
only a few years ago and are now 3,000 strong.
An award winning documentary "City Slickers"
details the interesting story of these tuxedoed
critters.
Boulders Beach near Simon's Town offers
visitors the chance to swim with Penguins (if
you can stand the smell and poop). African
penguins, formerly known as jackass penguins
because of their donkey-like bray, moved in
only a few years ago and are now 3,000 strong.
An award winning documentary "City Slickers"
details the interesting story of these tuxedoed
critters.
| Back to the USA |
Flamboyant bloomers
We look for flora as well as fauna and it
was hard to miss the flamboyant
Ascension Lily, growing wild on the
summit of the national park on Ascension
Island.
We look for flora as well as fauna and it
was hard to miss the flamboyant
Ascension Lily, growing wild on the
summit of the national park on Ascension
Island.
| A Legg Up at St. Helena |
Susanna Musick, an American biologist working
on Ascension, enjoyed pizza aboard.
on Ascension, enjoyed pizza aboard.
| Baby Turtles Most Tender |
Just kidding! along with a local
conservationist, we viewed green turtles
laying eggs and watched the hatchlings
escaping to the sea. Ascension Island is
the most important green turtle breeding
ground in the tropical Atlantic Ocean.
conservationist, we viewed green turtles
laying eggs and watched the hatchlings
escaping to the sea. Ascension Island is
the most important green turtle breeding
ground in the tropical Atlantic Ocean.
