| s/y Nine of Cups Maritime Canada Summer 2001 |
From Mt. Desert Island, we day-tripped again, anchoring in small, secluded coves
with deep, deep water and significant tidal changes. As we ventured further
Downeast Maine there were fewer amenities, fewer towns and we saw fewer
boats. We were heading for Canada and excited about the prospect.Canada is a
huge country with lots of coastline and a very short summer.
with deep, deep water and significant tidal changes. As we ventured further
Downeast Maine there were fewer amenities, fewer towns and we saw fewer
boats. We were heading for Canada and excited about the prospect.Canada is a
huge country with lots of coastline and a very short summer.
| The Dominion of Canada Capital: Ottawa Population: 33,311,400 Area: 3,851,877 sq mi; 2nd largest country in the world Languages: English, Canadian French Highest point: Mount Logan, 19,551 ft Lowest point: Atlantic Ocean, 0'
|
| A founding province of Canada, Nova Scotia (New Scotland) is nearly surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, and is known for its high tides, lobster, fish, blueberries and apples. |
Head Harbour Light on West Quoddy
Head and the Canadian border. We
arrived at Campobello Island, New
Brunswick summer home of President
Roosevelt. We would clear customs here.
Made easy by CanPass for U.S. citizens in
private vessels, a toll free call from a nearby
motel cleared us in.
Head and the Canadian border. We
arrived at Campobello Island, New
Brunswick summer home of President
Roosevelt. We would clear customs here.
Made easy by CanPass for U.S. citizens in
private vessels, a toll free call from a nearby
motel cleared us in.
Head Harbour was a bit crowded and not
very wide. We were told “rafting” was the
norm here...no permission needed, just tie
up to the most convenient boat. That’s little
Nine of Cups, 4th boat out, rafted to the
fishing trawler, Miss Hope. With the huge
tidal changes and fixed docks, we found the
ascent to the top of the wharf at low tide to
be about a 20’ slimy, vertical climb.
very wide. We were told “rafting” was the
norm here...no permission needed, just tie
up to the most convenient boat. That’s little
Nine of Cups, 4th boat out, rafted to the
fishing trawler, Miss Hope. With the huge
tidal changes and fixed docks, we found the
ascent to the top of the wharf at low tide to
be about a 20’ slimy, vertical climb.
Very cool provincial flag! |
| Welcome to Canada - Campobello Island - 44N58 / 066W54 |
Anticipating being sucked down into the abyss,
we approached with caution at high slack tide
and made it through without any difficulty.
Thank, Neptune!
we approached with caution at high slack tide
and made it through without any difficulty.
Thank, Neptune!
We saw lots of whales in the Bay of
Fundy. The Coast Guard (U.S. and
Canadian) requires that you stay a
reasonable distance from them.
However, we shut off our engine one
day and just drifted along to watch a
large pod of about 10 whales put on a
terrific show. The photo was nicked off
the net. My camera wasn't enough to
catch the acrobatics.
Fundy. The Coast Guard (U.S. and
Canadian) requires that you stay a
reasonable distance from them.
However, we shut off our engine one
day and just drifted along to watch a
large pod of about 10 whales put on a
terrific show. The photo was nicked off
the net. My camera wasn't enough to
catch the acrobatics.
| The Bay of Fundy boasts the highest tides in the world. Burntcoat Head in Minas Basin holds the world’s record for the highest tide at 54 feet. The biggest tidal differential we saw was about 35 feet which was enough for us. It poses a whole new set of complications when anchoring. Each day 100 billion tonnes of seawater flows in and out of the Bay of Fundy during one tide cycle ... more than the combined flow of all the world’s freshwater rivers! |
| Old Sow Whirlpool is the largest tidal whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere and is located off off the southwestern shore of Deer Island, New Brunswick, Canada between that island and Moose Island, the principal island of Eastport, Maine. According to popular etymology, the name "Old Sow" is derived from "pig-like" noises the whirlpool makes when churning. |
From Campobello, we headed to St. Andrews-
by-the-Sea, Canada’s oldest seaside resort
town located on the New Brunswick coast.
When we arrived, we had lots of water. Just a
few hours later, the markers were laying in mud.
by-the-Sea, Canada’s oldest seaside resort
town located on the New Brunswick coast.
When we arrived, we had lots of water. Just a
few hours later, the markers were laying in mud.
| St.Andrews-by-the-sea, New Brunswick, Canada - 45N04.19 / 067W03.14 |
Waiting for the tide…we ventured over to
Navy Island for a hike and found lots of
great sea glass. On our return, the dinghy that
was floating when we left, was high and dry.
Navy Island for a hike and found lots of
great sea glass. On our return, the dinghy that
was floating when we left, was high and dry.
| Cups on a moored off the wharf |
| St. Andrews town square |
| It's a small, small world... Remember Jelly’s near fatal adventure in Charleston where she was rescued by Andy on the “Avontuur”? Small world that it is, we accidentally met Andy in the laundromat one day. Read the whole story here, Jelly's Hero. |
We visited Kingsbrae Gardens on one of our
forays ashore. One of the top ten Public
Gardens in Canada, it is fashioned after the
Kew Gardens in England.
forays ashore. One of the top ten Public
Gardens in Canada, it is fashioned after the
Kew Gardens in England.
| Big girl...big chair |
From St. Andrews, back across the Bay of
Fundy and to isolated Grand Manan Island.
What a treat to find free moorings in the
North Head Harbor. There are a couple of
shops, a grocery and a ferry terminal here.
Fundy and to isolated Grand Manan Island.
What a treat to find free moorings in the
North Head Harbor. There are a couple of
shops, a grocery and a ferry terminal here.
| Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick - 44N71 / 066W86 |
Fishing “weirs” (pronounced wares) are common
in this area and are traps for catching herring.
in this area and are traps for catching herring.
We've seen many lighthouses, but not one
more picturesque than Swallowtail Light on
Grand Manan.
more picturesque than Swallowtail Light on
Grand Manan.
We were able to walk to Swallowtail Light .
You’ll notice that close-up, it’s not quite as
pretty as from afar… yet another life lesson.
You’ll notice that close-up, it’s not quite as
pretty as from afar… yet another life lesson.
| Bloody Caesar ... A decidedly Canadian cocktail concocted of Clamato juice and vodka, served in a glass with a peppered rim. |
| Grand Manan: Dulse Capital of the World This reddish,edible seaweed, known locally as 'Dark Harbour' dulse, is hand picked at low tide on the western side of the island. We tried it the way most islanders prefer it, as a snack food, fresh dried and eaten with the fingers. It's an acquired taste! |
From Grand Manan, we sailed across the Bay of Fundy to Nova Scotia. We landed first in
Yarmouth and stayed a few days. We had been here summer 2000 via “The Fast Cat” and it was
fun coming back under our own power. We enjoyed a small dinner theatre production and
wandering about town. We were able to pick up more Canadian charts for Nova Scotia as well
as A Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia: Digby to Cape Breton Island, Peter Loveridge (1997).
From Yarmouth, we moved to the south shore and oh what a delight. Our first stop…Shelburne,
a Loyalist town founded in 1783. Loyalists were those loyal to Britain during our Revolutionary
War who fled the U.S. to Canada after the war.
Yarmouth and stayed a few days. We had been here summer 2000 via “The Fast Cat” and it was
fun coming back under our own power. We enjoyed a small dinner theatre production and
wandering about town. We were able to pick up more Canadian charts for Nova Scotia as well
as A Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia: Digby to Cape Breton Island, Peter Loveridge (1997).
From Yarmouth, we moved to the south shore and oh what a delight. Our first stop…Shelburne,
a Loyalist town founded in 1783. Loyalists were those loyal to Britain during our Revolutionary
War who fled the U.S. to Canada after the war.
We anchored in Shelburne Harbour and were
officially welcomed and greeted by the
“Ambassador”, Harry O’Connor, who has
supposedly welcomed thousands of boats to
Shelburne over the years. Above, the
Shelburne Dory Shop where they still make
custom dories to this day.
officially welcomed and greeted by the
“Ambassador”, Harry O’Connor, who has
supposedly welcomed thousands of boats to
Shelburne over the years. Above, the
Shelburne Dory Shop where they still make
custom dories to this day.
| Dory – a specific type of boat used as small fishing boat on larger fishing schooners. The construction on them is different in different towns (Shelburne vs. Lunenburg, for instance). |
From Shelburne to Lunenburg. The
picturesque nature of these towns is
unbelievable. Each town has some
unique aspect to share including
museums illustrating their maritime past.
The Canadians are warm and
welcoming and proud to share their
history and culture with us.
picturesque nature of these towns is
unbelievable. Each town has some
unique aspect to share including
museums illustrating their maritime past.
The Canadians are warm and
welcoming and proud to share their
history and culture with us.
The crew posing with Nine of Cups in
the background. Photo: Jan on "Bandersnatch"
the background. Photo: Jan on "Bandersnatch"
Lunenburg wharves…those are Lunenburg
dories lined up along the wharf by the Fisheries
Museum buildings.
dories lined up along the wharf by the Fisheries
Museum buildings.
| Shelburne, Nova Scotia - 43N75 / 065W32 |
| Lunenberg, Nova Scotia - 44N04 / 064W03 |
| Armdale YC Marina, Halifax, Nova Scotia - 44N37.59 / 063W36.47 |
Rogue's Roost is a small inlet with a narrow
passage which was used as a hideout for
rum-runners. In recent years it is a popular
destination to anchor. Above, David collects
mussels for dinner.
passage which was used as a hideout for
rum-runners. In recent years it is a popular
destination to anchor. Above, David collects
mussels for dinner.
We spoke at length with Captain Mitchell
aboard the Grand Banker. He had captained a
fishing vessel his whole life. Hailing from
Newfoundland, his old fishing grounds were in
the Flemish Cap. Our enjoyable chat with him
made us think about visiting Newfoundland.
aboard the Grand Banker. He had captained a
fishing vessel his whole life. Hailing from
Newfoundland, his old fishing grounds were in
the Flemish Cap. Our enjoyable chat with him
made us think about visiting Newfoundland.
The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic in
Lunenberg is a fascinating place to visit. We
had the opportunity to board and tour a large
fishing trawler as well as a Grand Banker. The
displays were excellent and included an
interesting exhibit on the rumrunners who
found running illegal liquor into the U.S. much
more profitable than fishing.
Lunenberg is a fascinating place to visit. We
had the opportunity to board and tour a large
fishing trawler as well as a Grand Banker. The
displays were excellent and included an
interesting exhibit on the rumrunners who
found running illegal liquor into the U.S. much
more profitable than fishing.
| The Bluenose, pictured on Canadian dimes and commemorative stamps, was the Queen of the North Atlantic fishing fleet and built in Lunenburg. |
| Nova Scotians have been called Bluenoses since the 1700's. Reason: Planting and exporting of Irish Bluenose Potatoes, blue marks on the noses of fishermen left by blue-dyed mitts and the nickname given to the Nova Scotia British troops which occupied New York City and Boston during the American Revolution. |
Yup, David convinced Marcie to climb
inside this giant lobster trap for a photo.
inside this giant lobster trap for a photo.
| The term rum-running is more commonly applied to smuggling over water; bootlegging is applied to smuggling over land. |
From Lunenburg to Halifax,
Nova Scotia’s provincial capital,
and a beautiful city. We
anchored first at the yacht club
outside of town, but ended up
moving to an anchorage right in
the harbor across from the city
so we could dinghy the mile
across the harbor to the dinghy
dock to explore the town.
Nova Scotia’s provincial capital,
and a beautiful city. We
anchored first at the yacht club
outside of town, but ended up
moving to an anchorage right in
the harbor across from the city
so we could dinghy the mile
across the harbor to the dinghy
dock to explore the town.
| A resident of Halifax is referred to as an Haligonian. |
Halifax Claims to Fame…
|
We contemplated heading through the
Canso Passage to Prince Edward Island
or going farther east and north to Cape
Breton or even further north to
Newfoundland, but it was August now
and the summer was ending all too
quickly. Time to head back to the U.S.
We had missed several scenic spots on
our way to Halifax so stopped on our
way back west.
We hurried along now. Rogue's Roost,
Chester, Mahone’s Bay, Lehave and
then the big push overnight to Rockland,
Maine where we cleared back into the
USA.
We had visited Canada by plane and car
several times in the past for both business
and pleasure, but visiting by boat was so
very different. We saw so little of this
magnificent country...mere glimpses of
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. What
we did see was fantastic and the thought
of remaining here for another season
crossed our minds...just for a moment...
until we could see our breath in the
mornings.
Canso Passage to Prince Edward Island
or going farther east and north to Cape
Breton or even further north to
Newfoundland, but it was August now
and the summer was ending all too
quickly. Time to head back to the U.S.
We had missed several scenic spots on
our way to Halifax so stopped on our
way back west.
We hurried along now. Rogue's Roost,
Chester, Mahone’s Bay, Lehave and
then the big push overnight to Rockland,
Maine where we cleared back into the
USA.
We had visited Canada by plane and car
several times in the past for both business
and pleasure, but visiting by boat was so
very different. We saw so little of this
magnificent country...mere glimpses of
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. What
we did see was fantastic and the thought
of remaining here for another season
crossed our minds...just for a moment...
until we could see our breath in the
mornings.
The Old Town Clock is a symbol
of the city and sits at the base of
Citadel Hill. Designed by the
Duke of Kent (father of Queen
Victoria), it was given as a gift to
the city in the late 1700s.
of the city and sits at the base of
Citadel Hill. Designed by the
Duke of Kent (father of Queen
Victoria), it was given as a gift to
the city in the late 1700s.
| Halifax Town Hall |
| Halifax Public Gardens |
Probably our fondest memory and souvenir of Halifax is the photo
we took of a seahorse gate which David massaged and turned
into our ship's log.
we took of a seahorse gate which David massaged and turned
into our ship's log.
| A famous sight…the Three Churches of Mahone's Bay. |
Return to the USA with us and finish
our journey south in 2001
our journey south in 2001