s/y Nine of Cups
Maritime Canada
Summer 2001
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From Mt. Desert Island, we day-tripped again, anchoring in small, secluded coves
with deep, deep water and significant tidal changes.  As we ventured further  
Downeast Maine there were fewer amenities, fewer towns and we saw fewer
boats. We were heading for Canada and excited about the prospect.Canada is a
huge country with lots of coastline and a very short summer.
The Dominion of Canada

Population: 33,311,400
Area:  3,851,877 sq mi; 2nd largest country in the world
Languages: English, Canadian French
Highest point: Mount Logan, 19,551 ft
Lowest point: Atlantic Ocean, 0'

  • Canada has 10 provinces and 3 territories.
  • Canada became a self-governing dominion in 1867
    while retaining ties to the British crown.
A founding province of Canada, Nova
(New Scotland) is nearly
surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, and is
known for its high tides, lobster, fish,
blueberries and apples.
Head Harbour Light on West Quoddy
Head and the Canadian border.  We
arrived at Campobello Island, New
Brunswick summer home of President
Roosevelt.  We would clear customs
here.  Made easy by
CanPass for U.S.
citizens in private vessels, a toll free call
from a nearby motel cleared us in.
Head Harbour was a bit crowded and not
very wide. We were told “rafting” was the
norm here...no permission needed, just tie
up to the most convenient boat. That’s little
Nine of Cups, 4th boat out, rafted to the
fishing trawler, Miss Hope. With the huge
tidal changes and fixed docks, we found the
ascent to the top of the wharf at low tide to
be about a 20’ slimy, vertical climb.
  • One of the original provinces of Canada, New
    Brunswick is the largest of the three Canadian
    Maritime provinces.
  • New Brunswick (Nouveau Brunswick) is the only
    "constitutionally official" bilingual province in
  • The province was named after the British Royal
    House of Brunswick.

                     Very cool provincial flag!
Welcome to Canada - Campobello Island - 44N58 / 066W54
Anticipating being sucked down into the abyss,
we approached with caution at high slack tide
and made it through without any difficulty.
Thank, Neptune!
We saw lots of whales in the Bay of
Fundy.  The Coast Guard (U.S. and
Canadian) requires that you stay a
reasonable distance from them.
However, we shut off our engine one
day and just drifted along to watch a
large pod of about 10 whales put on a
terrific show. The photo was nicked off
the net. My camera wasn't enough to
catch the acrobatics.
The Bay of Fundy  boasts the highest tides in the world.  Burntcoat
Head in Minas Basin holds the world’s record for the highest tide at 54
feet. The biggest tidal differential we saw was about 35 feet which was
enough for us.  It poses a whole new set of complications when

Each day 100 billion tonnes of seawater flows in and out of the Bay of
Fundy during one tide cycle ...  more than the combined flow of all the
world’s freshwater rivers!
Old Sow Whirlpool  is the
largest tidal whirlpool in the
Western Hemisphere and is
located off off the
southwestern shore of Deer
Island, New Brunswick,
Canada between that island
and Moose Island, the
principal island of Eastport,
Maine. According to
popular etymology, the name
"Old Sow" is derived from
"pig-like" noises the
whirlpool makes when
From Campobello, we headed to St. Andrews-
by-the-Sea, Canada’s oldest seaside resort
town located on the New Brunswick coast.  
When we arrived, we had lots of water. Just a
few hours later, the markers were laying in mud.
St.Andrews-by-the-sea, New Brunswick, Canada - 45N04.19 / 067W03.14
Waiting for the tide…we ventured over to
Navy Island for a hike and found lots of
great sea glass. On our return, the dinghy that
was floating when we left, was high and dry.
Cups on a moored off the wharf
St. Andrews town square
It's a small, small world...
Remember Jelly’s near fatal adventure in
Charleston where she was rescued by
Andy on the “Avontuur”?  Small world
that it is, we accidentally met Andy in the
laundromat one day. Read the whole
story here,
Jelly's Hero.
We visited Kingsbrae Gardens on one of our
forays ashore. One of the top ten Public
Gardens in Canada, it is fashioned after the
Kew Gardens in England.
Big girl...big chair
From St. Andrews, back across the Bay of
Fundy and to isolated Grand Manan Island.
What a treat to find free moorings in the
North Head Harbor.  There are a couple of
shops, a grocery and a ferry terminal here.  
Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick - 44N71 / 066W86
Fishing “weirs” (pronounced wares) are common
in this area and are traps for catching herring.
We've seen many lighthouses, but not one
more picturesque than Swallowtail Light on
Grand Manan.
We were able to walk to Swallowtail Light .
You’ll notice that close-up, it’s not quite as
pretty as from afar… yet another life lesson.
Bloody Caesar ... A decidedly Canadian
cocktail concocted of Clamato juice and
vodka, served in a glass with a peppered rim.
Grand Manan:  Dulse Capital of the World
This reddish,edible seaweed, known locally as
'Dark Harbour' dulse, is hand picked at low
tide on the western side of the island. We tried
it the way most islanders prefer it, as a snack
food, fresh dried and eaten with the fingers. It's
an acquired taste!
From Grand Manan, we sailed across the Bay of Fundy to Nova Scotia.  We landed first in
Yarmouth  and stayed a few days. We had been here summer 2000 via “The Fast Cat” and it was
fun coming back under our own power.  We enjoyed a small dinner theatre production and
wandering about town.  We were able to pick up more Canadian charts for Nova Scotia as well
A Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia: Digby to Cape Breton Island, Peter Loveridge (1997).  
From Yarmouth, we moved to the south shore and oh what a delight.  Our first stop…Shelburne,
a Loyalist town founded in 1783.  Loyalists were those loyal to Britain during our Revolutionary
War who fled the U.S. to Canada after the war.  
We anchored in Shelburne Harbour and were
officially welcomed and greeted by the
“Ambassador”, Harry O’Connor, who has
supposedly welcomed thousands of boats to
Shelburne over the years. Above, the
Shelburne Dory Shop where they still make
custom dories to this day.
Dory – a specific type of boat used as
small fishing boat on larger fishing
schooners. The construction on them is
different in different towns (Shelburne vs.
Lunenburg, for instance).
From Shelburne to Lunenburg.  The
picturesque nature of these towns is
unbelievable.  Each town has some
unique aspect to share including  
museums illustrating their maritime past.
The Canadians are warm and
welcoming and proud to share their
history and culture with us.
The crew posing with Nine of Cups in the
Photo: Jan on "Bandersnatch"
Lunenburg wharves…those are Lunenburg
dories lined up along the wharf by the Fisheries
Museum buildings.
Shelburne, Nova Scotia - 43N75 / 065W32
Lunenberg, Nova Scotia - 44N04 / 064W03
Armdale YC Marina, Halifax, Nova Scotia - 44N37.59 / 063W36.47
Rogue's Roost is a small inlet with a narrow
passage which was used as a hideout for
rum-runners. In recent years it is a popular
destination to anchor. Above, David collects
mussels for dinner.
We spoke at length with Captain Mitchell
aboard the Grand Banker. He had captained a
fishing vessel his whole life. Hailing from  
Newfoundland, his old fishing grounds were in
the Flemish Cap. Our enjoyable chat with him
made us think about visiting Newfoundland.
The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic in
Lunenberg is a fascinating place to visit.  We
had the opportunity to board and tour a large
fishing trawler as well as a Grand Banker. The
displays were excellent and included an
interesting exhibit on the rumrunners who
found running illegal liquor into the U.S. much
more profitable than fishing.
The Bluenose, pictured on Canadian
dimes and commemorative stamps, was
the Queen of the North Atlantic fishing
fleet and built in Lunenburg.
Nova Scotians have been called
Bluenoses since the 1700's. Reason:
Planting and exporting of Irish Bluenose
Potatoes, blue marks on the noses of
fishermen left by blue-dyed mitts and the
nickname given to the Nova Scotia British
troops which occupied New York City and
Boston during the American Revolution.
Yup, David convinced Marcie to climb
inside this giant lobster trap for a photo.
The term rum-running is more commonly
applied to smuggling over water; bootlegging
is applied to smuggling over land.
From Lunenburg to Halifax,
Nova Scotia’s provincial capital,
and a beautiful city.  We
anchored first at the yacht club
outside of town, but ended up
moving to an anchorage right in
the harbor across from the city
so we could dinghy the mile
across the harbor to the dinghy
dock to explore the town.
A resident of Halifax is referred
to as an Haligonian.
Halifax Claims to Fame…
  • First permanent English settlement
    in Canada (1749)
  • First Canadian Protestant church,
    St. Pauls Anglican…still standing
  • First Canadian English newspaper,
    “The Halifax Gazette”
  • Canada’s oldest Farmer’s Market
    …still going today since 1750
  • North America’s oldest salt water
    ferry service – established in 1752
  • TV Home of Theodore Tug’s “Big
We contemplated heading through the
Canso Passage to Prince Edward Island
or going farther east and north to Cape
Breton or even further north to
Newfoundland, but  it was August now
and the summer was ending all too
quickly.  Time to head back to the U.S.
We had missed several scenic spots on
our way to Halifax so stopped on our
way back west.

We hurried along now. Rogue's Roost,
Chester, Mahone’s Bay, Lehave and
then the big push overnight to Rockland,
Maine where we  cleared back into the

We had visited Canada by plane and car
several times in the past for both business
and pleasure, but visiting by boat was so
very different. We  saw so little of this
magnificent country...mere glimpses of
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. What
we did see was fantastic and the thought
of remaining here for another season
crossed our minds...just for a moment...
until we could see our breath in the
The Old Town Clock is a symbol
of the city and sits at the base of
Citadel Hill. Designed by the
Duke of Kent (father of Queen
Victoria), it was given as a gift to
the city in the late 1700s.
Halifax Town Hall
Halifax Public Gardens
Probably our fondest memory and souvenir of Halifax is the photo
we took of a seahorse gate which David massaged and turned
into our ship's log. Check out
"What's in a Name"
A famous sight…the Three Churches of
Mahone's Bay.
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Return to the USA with us and finish our
journey south in 2001