s/y Nine of Cups
Nevada USA
2010
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Nevada...hmmm! Not part of the sailing plan.
One thing we've learned while cruising...all plans
are subject to change. With NZ departure plans
made for Fiji, we received word from home that
David's sister could use a little help back home
caring for David's 92-year old mom, Becky, who
had just undergone hip replacement surgery.
So...in a matter of  three days, we got "Cups" on
a mooring and ready for our prolonged absence.
We got ourselves packed, booked travel and
were back in the USA. We actually left Auckland
on 12 May at 1:30 pm and arrived in Los
Angeles, CA at 7:30am the same day. In
essence, we arrived 6 hours before we left. Quite
efficient, don't you think?  So...we are spending
the NZ winter and the northern hemisphere
summer in the desert of Las Vegas...a far cry
from winter in cold, wet, windy Opua and a
major adaptation. However, when life gives you
lemons....make LEMONADE! Becky (Mom) is
recuperating nicely. We bought a car and we're
planning on learning more about Nevada. Come
with us as we explore America's southwest.
For those of you (including Americans) who aren't
familiar with  US geography, here's a map of the
State and its location within the country.
Nevada facts....
Capital: Carson City
Largest city: Las Vegas
Population: 2,643,085 (est 2009)
Area: 110,567 sq mi; 7th largest state  
  in the USA
Highest Point - Boundary Pk - 13,143'
State Nickname - Silver State,
  Sagebrush State, Battle Born State
State Flower: Sagebrush
State Bird:  Mountain Bluebird

Nevada borders California to the west,
Oregon and Idaho to the north, Utah and
Arizona to the east and New Mexico south.
A 12-hour direct flight from Auckland to Los Angeles and  oh my,
we were in a rental car (driving on the right once again) in one of the
largest cities in the world. A few miles of freeways and we were
headed north and west to Nevada through mountains and desert.
Instead of ocean sailing, we watched as people used the wind to sail over
the flat desert sands.
Traveling at 70 mph (110 km/ph) instead of 5-6 kts, we passed through California and into Nevada in just a few hours. The difference in terrain was
negligible. However, Primm, Nevada (formerly known as Stateline)  is anything but prim! In the 1920s Pete MacIntyre, known locally as "Whiskey
Pete", owned a gas-station at the stateline. Pete apparently had a difficult time making ends meet selling gas so he resorted to a little bootlegging. When
Whiskey Pete died in 1933, legend has it that he wanted to be buried standing up with a bottle of bootleg in his hands so he could watch over the area.
Whiskey Pete's unmarked grave was accidentally exhumed while workers were building a connecting bridge from Whiskey Pete's to Buffalo Bills Hotel
and Casino (on the other side of I-15). The body was moved and is now said to be buried in one of the caves where Pete cooked up his moonshine.
Beyond Primm, there's nothing much for miles. The brown desert sands were dotted with cacti, joshua trees and sagebrush. Wildflowers, springing from
nowhere along the side of the road, provided a splash of color. Above right, a desert-globe mallow in bloom. And in no time...we were in Las
Vegas...proverbial sin city.
Rather than try to explain what the Las Vegas Strip is like, I present a collage of some photos I took while we drove up and down the Strip early one
Sunday morning. At 0630, it was jammed with cars and people. There was a cacophony of sound and a riot of color and glitz...too much for the mind
to comprehend in one pass through.  From pawn shops and drive-through wedding chapels, to the luxurious themed hotels sporting a Sphinx, an Eiffel
Tower, Lady Liberty, Caesar et al, sky towers, a circus, amusement park, pirates of the Caribbean...the list goes on and on. You can pawn most
anything, buy most anything, do most anything here. Gambling, prostitution, drinking...all legal.
A little history about Las Vegas....
* Some 10,000 years ago the area was visited by nomadic Paleo-Indians. Anasazi inhabited the area around 2,000 years ago and Paiute people also
explored this area. Recently a cache of corn dating back 2,000 years was unearthed in the Wetlands Reserve nearby.
*The first European to explore the area was a Spanish scout, Rafael Rivera, who in 1829 discovered a valley with abundant wild grasses growing
and a plentiful water supply which he named Las Vegas, Spanish for "The Meadows."
*The discovery of minerals lead to mining, a railroad station in the late 1800's and the formal founding of the city in 1905.
*Hoover Dam construction began in 1931 and led to influx of workers.
*Nellis Air Force Base situated here in WWII because of location, flat terrain and weather.
*Mobster, "Bugsy" Siegel buys land and builds the first major hotel/resort "The Flamingo" in 1947, named for the long legs of his sweetheart.
*Today's Las Vegas is a long way from Rivera's first glimpse of the "meadows"...glitz and gambling.
But Nevada is not just Las Vegas and  it's not
all gambling and vice...really! We're finding that
this is only a small part of what Nevada really
is. We managed a daytrip to Mt. Charleston,
just 35 miles north of the city, but a whole
world apart and about 20-30 degrees cooler.
The area is very scenic and Nevada has made the
most of posting "Nevada Scenic Byways" signs.
An old friend of the US Forestry Service...
Smoky Bear was created in 1944 and is
the longest running public service ad
campaign in U.S. history.
The temp on the mountain was drastically
cooler than in Las Vegas and there was still
snow on the mountainside. Someone with a
sense of humor did a little creative alteration to
the sign above.
Mount Charleston, formally named Charleston
Peak, at 11,916' (3,632 m), is the highest of the
Spring Mountains of southern Nevada and the
state's eighth highest mountain peak.
Nevada is from the Spanish word meaning
"snowcapped." Nevada is, in fact, the most
mountainous state in the US with more than 300
named mountain ranges, all running north-south
as part of the Great Basin complex.
Nevada's nickname is Silver State, due to
the large number of silver deposits that
were discovered and mined here.
"Sagebrush State" (the state flower) and
"Battle Born State" are its alternative
nicknames. In 1864, Nevada became the
36th state to enter the union, and the phrase
"Battle Born" on the state flag reflects the
state's entry on the Union side during the
American Civil War. Its first non-native
settlement was called Mormon Station.
Las Vegas - 36N10 / 115W12
Mt Charleston - 36N25.7 / 115W64.3
Clark County Wetlands Park - 36W09.36 /115N024.11
Oh, wow...Clark County Wetlands
Park is a gem! We discovered it was
practically in our backyard...a little over a
mile away. Wetlands is part of the Las
Vegas Wash, the final link in the Las
Vegas Valley's water supply which carries
an average of more than 150 million
gallons of water a day to Lake Mead
(home of the Hoover Dam). The Wash
serves 4 functions: provides channels for
all excess water; the vegetation "polishes"
the water; provides a wildlife habitat and
serves as a recreational area.
Wetlands Park is a 2900-acre, seven- by
one-mile strip of land on the eastern edge
of the Las Vegas Valley and borders both
sides of Las Vegas Wash as it flows past
Frenchman Mountain and the red
sandstone of Rainbow Gardens  on its
way to Lake Mead.
Because of its numerous paths, birds and wildlife, we
began visiting frequently...especially early in the morning.
In addition to birds, we've seen desert cottontails, lizards,
coyote and chipmunks. Wheelchair accessibility make it a
good spot for Becky to share the park with us.
There have been supposedly 288 identified
bird species in the park. We're only
beginning to identify them, but the
roadrunner above was a particularly good
sighting. Beep-beep! We've added a
special page for
Birds of the Southwest.
Prickly pears were also in bloom
Henderson Heritage Museum, Henderson, NV - 36W04 / 114N98
As Becky continues her recovery, we take
more and more daytrips in and around the
Las Vegas area. One such trip was to the
Heritage Museum in Henderson...the next
town over. The museum exhibits take visitors
through an historical journey from the Ice
Age to the Age of Entertainment including
Native American tribal life to pioneers and
their daily lives, early town-sites and land
auction camps, mining technology and the
gaming and entertainment heritage of Las
Vegas. A separate whole avenue, Heritage
Street, across from the main building, offers
doorways into past decades, from the 1910s
to the 1970s. We found it a most enjoyable
day and the Senior (50+) entry fee was
$1.00...what a bargain!
The adobe structure of the museum's main
exhibit building and the grounds were definitely in
keeping with southwest architecture and
landscaping.
Palo verde trees were in bloom...a beautiful
contrast to the desert's browns.
Exhibits included information on the history and
culture of the ancient Pueblo and more recent
Paiute native Americans.
Impossible to explore Nevada's history without
including slot machines and the gaming industry.
Heritage Street allowed us entry into several
period homes from different 20th century
decades complete with period furnishings...a
flash from the past including an old mobile home
set in a trailer park.
While photographing the cacti, a local got into
the picture. I thought originally it was a
chipmunk, but learned subsequently that it was
instead, a ground squirrel.
We also saw several desert cottontails on
the grounds although the photo above was
taken at a much greener Wetlands Park.
Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve, Henderson, NV - 36W04 / 114N98
Quite by accident, we came across the
Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve. Located
within the town's water treatment facility, the
Preserve is home to thousands of migratory
waterfowl as well as numerous resident desert
birds. There are nine ponds available for
birding  and we were amazed at not only the
number and types of birds, but also other
fauna we came across.

With temperatures reaching 110F+ during the
days, we visited at around 0600 one hot,
sultry morning. We identified and
photographed so many new birds, we opted
to add a new page to the website on
Birds of
the Southwest. Visit that page for bird
photos, but check out this page for non-bird
photos we managed while visiting the preserve.
Vivid dancer damselfly - This iridescent
blue beauty is the state insect of Nevada.
The early morning sun reflecting on the ponds
was beautiful.
Whiptail lizards were abundant.
Aquatic insects like the skimmer above,
provide lots of food for the resident birds.
Dragonflies in varying colors and sizes
flitted about and around the water.
The very, very best animal we saw, however,
was this coyote running along the ridge. We saw
him again later traveling with a friend.
The ponds were teeming with life, but from a
distance the tranquil view was just as fetching.
Of course, there's more to come. As we
travel, visit and explore...we'll take you
along. Promise!
We go back to the Wetlands Park  fairly
regularly. It's close to home and we go
really early when it's cool and the birds and
animals are at their most active. We'll add
to the
Southwest Birds page and
intersperse interesting photos as we go,
because there's more to the Wetlands than
just birds.

We see lots and lots of desert cottontails
and there's a bullfrog whose bass voice
reverberates through the marsh around the
pond. Desert flowers add color and there's
evidence of beavers though we haven't
seen them. So far, each time we've gone,
we've added a new species sighting.
The sunflowers are in bloom and they looked
just beautiful in the morning sun, adding color to
side of the trail.
This pond is a great place for the coots and
moorhens especially. The high, thick grasses
growing around it are filled with sound, but we
rarely see the inhabitants.
Cross-country USA