s/y Nine of Cups
Central Vanuatu Islands
Efate, Epi, Ambrym, Malekula & Espiritu Santo Islands - October 2011
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All too soon, it was time to leave Vanuatu and head to Australia for cyclone season. We missed visiting
many areas that were on the planned itinerary, but what we did see and experience was fantastic. We
headed back to Luganville for re-provisioning, duty-free diesel and final check-out and we were off.

Come with us
Chesterfield Reef en route to Australia where we begin our adventures in a new
country and a new continent!

Remember there's always an adventure
Sailing with Nine of Cups.
Vanuatu's Southern Islands
Port Vila, Efate Island - 17S44.88 / 168.18.63 - Moored
The trip from Erromango to Vanuatu's capital city of Port Vila on Efate Island was  84 nm and an overnight
passage. We left Dillon's Bay late afternoon and arrived in Port Vila midday.  Port Vila, or just Vila as the locals call
it,  is situated at the head of a horseshoe bay. James Cook originally surveyed the area and named it after his patron,
Lord Sandwich, but the islanders' own name for it, Efate, has prevailed. With a population of about 46,000, it's one
of the South Pacific's largest and most attractive towns. We were looking forward to well-stocked supermarkets,
fresh market fruits and veggies and showers...oh yeah, and internet!
We picked up a mooring in the calm, deep waters right off the
downtown area of Port Vila. The town is living up to expectation.
Port Vila is busy and bustling and seems to have about everything
we'd need or want. The French influence here is seen in the fresh
baguettes for 60 cents each and a grand supermarket, Au Bon
Marche, which is well-stocked, tidy and has so much variety we're
nearly overwhelmed. People are friendly...drivers even stop for
pedestrians. As wonderful as it is, we need to provision, do some
chores and get moving as quickly as possible in just a few days so
we can head north through the rest of these enchanting islands
before it's time to head to Australia for the cyclone season. No
lingering allowed.
Cups in the foreground moored off Port Vila
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As we set about exploring the town, the
Vanuatu National Museum was a priority.
Nasonal Miusium Blong Vanuatu...Bislama
for Vanuatu National Museum was 700 vt/ea
One of the most interesting art forms in the northern islands is sandroing (sand drawing). It
provides a method of illustrating local legends and telling stories with elaborate designs.
Our docent, Edgar, is from the island of Espiritu Santo and drew the above designs while telling
accompanying stories. He began as shown above and then never raising his finger, completed these
intricate, beautiful designs. Drawings complete, he played a bamboo flute-like instrument and sang a
traditional song in a low, quiet voice. A most fascinating demonstration makes us anxious to visit the
islands where this art is still practiced. Far right, carved figures are made for tribal ceremonies .
Around town...from left, tree fern carvings are a familiar decoration throughout Port Vila; men play
pétanque (like bocce ball) at the waterfront park; the outstanding fresh market spans the area between
the main street in town and the waterfront and is open 24 hrs/day except Sunday. Fresh flowers, fruits
and vegetables are all locally grown and we took advantage of the freshies. Green, woven pandanus
palm baskets full of kumala (sweet potato) and bundles of taro for sale.
From Vila, we anchored in Havannah Harbour for one night en route to Epi. We
planned on one long day's passage, but we were slower than anticipated and rather
than risk arriving at night, we pulled into Revelieu Bay, about 10 miles shy of Lamen
Bay, our planned destination.
Ai Creek, Havannah Harbour, Efate - 17S36.29 / 168E14.62 - 37'
Revolieu Bay, Epi - 16S43.65 / 168E08.62 - 36'
Lamen Bay, Epi - 16S35.72 /168E09.69 - 43'
En route to Epi, we were entertained by
a large pod of bottlenose dolphins.
We shared the anchorage with T6 which brought
its passengers aboard via heliocopter.
A typical Epi village hut. Used only for
sleeping, shelves in front hold baskets and
basic cooking pots and utensils.
High and dry, this dugout is stored in the
crook of a tree.
The only indication that this field was Epi's
airport was the wind sock that blew
A family takes a stroll along the main street in
Lamen Bay, Epi.
Silvereyes are common on most  islands.
An emerald dove
Ranon, Ambrym - 16S08.49 / 168E07.00 - 22'
Ambrym...the Black Island because of its twin active volcanoes, Mt. Marum and Mt.
Benbow and hence its black volcanic soil. Or because it is the most mysterious island of
Vanuatu with strong witchcraft, sorcery and traditions of magic?
We saw petite spinner dolphins as we
rounded Ambrym's west coast.
A scene along Ambrym's black-brown
volcanic sand beach which reminded us of
used coffee grounds.
Carved tree ferns or black palms lie in a
heap on the beach getting ready for
transport to Vila and Noumea.
Ranon village was neat and tidy with large
well-walked pathways. We were welcome
to wander and walk where ever we chose.
We visited Grade 4 at the primary school
and were treated to a class song.
Alex (blue shirt far left) is a carver and we
bought one of his carved statues. His family
joined him for this photo.
Ronnie, a carver, was our host in Ranon.
He invited us for kava one afternoon and
provided lots of fresh fruits and veggies.
Ronnie shows us a kava plant, a member of
the pepper family, the roots of which are
ground, mashed or chewed into a pulp.
Guillermo from "TinTin" gets a closer look
at a tamtam (slit drum) on the shore.
Jeffrey crushes the kava root.
The muddy looking water in the
bowl  to the left is kava.
The magic of Ambrym...a complete, bright
rainbow stretches behind us after a
morning shower.
Ronnie was articulate and openly offered
information about Ambrym and its culture.
At the nakamal (kava bar), we asked and
he answered question after question. Yes,
there really is strong magic on Ambrym ...
many sorcerers practice both black and
white magic. Too many unexplained,
strange things have happened to ignore the
power of these "men blong magik".
From Ambrym, we went west and south to
the tiny Maskelyne Island group off the larger
island of Malekula and anchored at Gaspard
Bay for a night then made our way around
the bottom of Malekula and up the west
coast to calm, serene Southwest Bay where
we stayed a week to do boat projects.
Gaspard Bay, Maskelyne Islands - 16S28.47 / 167E49.12 - 46'
We stayed one night only in Gaspard Bay with
the hopes of seeing a dugong, a manatee-like
critter and Vanuatu's only native marine
mammal. We saw several, but never long
enough for a photo. This mural in Luganville at
least gives you some idea of what a dugong is.
This is the same bay where Chief Jackson
came aboard to show us some magic.
Dixon Reefs, Malekula - 16S21.29 / 168E23.02 - 36'
Excerpt from our blog:
Jackson, chief of the local village, paddled up in his dugout canoe. He was quite the character. First, he welcomed us and then told us he
usually charged 1000 Vatu for anchoring in the bay, but he'd take a bag of rice as a contribution to the village in lieu of the payment. He
offered to teach us some of his tribal magic if we invited him aboard. How could we say no? Marcie was baking cookies and he waited
patiently ... eating a half dozen warm cookies while waiting. As soon as she finished, the magic lessons would begin. He and David chatted
amiably in the cockpit. When Marcie finally joined them, he described all the wonderful things he could do with his magic...heal the sick,calm
storms, make rain or catch fish anytime he wanted to. In fact, we could tie him up and throw him overboard with a huge stone attached to him
and he could just walk away unharmed.  Normally, this knowledge is only passed from chief to first son, but it seemed it was okay to pass it
on to yachties since we were leaving and not in competition with his tribe.

He asked for a small cup of water and some "sampu"...hmmm? A sample? No, sampu! Ah, shampoo? Yes, sampu! Marcie was instructed to
go below since she couldn't witness the strong magic that he was passing to David. The process included David removing all of his clothes,
lying on the deck and Jackson murmuring incantations and rubbing David's body with the "sampu" and water. That phase completed, Jackson
requested Marcie to remove all of her clothes and lie on the deck for the same ritual.

"Oh, I don't think so." said David. "It's not our custom for other men to see our wives naked or have strange men, even chiefs, rub our wives'
bodies with water and "sampu"."    
"Ah, yes, but I'm a chief, David, and it's okay to do this. Otherwise I can't transfer the magic and something bad might happen to your yacht."
"We'll take our chances", countered David. "Perhaps, you can think strong, positive magic thoughts to keep our yacht safe.".
"You should have told me before we started that your customs do not allow your wife to remove her clothes. It's very, very important to finish
the transfer of the magic. Do not be afraid." Jackson was making a strong case for Marcie's nude participation.
"I didn't realize that Marcie removing her clothes was part of the magic transferral. We're very sorry for the misunderstanding, but this is tabu.
"I can keep the sampu?"
"Certainly."
Jackson ended his argument. With a bag of rice, 1/2 dozen more cookies, the rest of the sampu and one of Cups' old hatches in his dugout,
he bid us farewell and paddled off to see a friend.
Southwest Bay, Malekula - 16S29.54 / 167E25.95 - 33'
 We threaded our way through the narrow
canals and reefs in the Maskelynes and had a
great sail up the west coast of Malekula to
Southwest Bay. Above a sunset with Ten
Stick Island in the foreground. Rumor has it
that American military during WWII paid 10
sticks of tobacco to be able to use the island
for target practice.
 During WWII, up to 500,000 military
personnel were stationed in Vanuatu, then
known as the New Hebrides, as a base from
which to fight the Japanese in the South
Pacific.
 James Michener was stationed here and
based his book,
South Pacific, on this area.
The imaginary Bali Hai is supposedly the
island of Ambae seen at a misty sunrise from
the island of Espiritu Santo.
Dugouts line the beach of Lembinwen
Village. The villagers work harder here than
anywhere else we've seen, paddling daily to
tend their gardens inside the huge Tsiri
Lagoon, the entrance of which is just
beyond the beach above.
Kids are shy, but curious and usually ferret
out the fact that we have treats with us.
This time it was banana muffins.
Though she was quite interested in
watching David repair a generator, she
just couldn't keep her eyes open for the
whole procedure.
These pictures do no justice to Dixon Reefs at all. Since we don't own an underwater
camera (yet!), these were taken from the dinghy looking at the reef below. What you can't
see is the glorious, healthy coral in different types, shapes and sizes and every color of the
rainbow. The fish were wonderful. Big fish, little fish, blue fish, red fish... even sharks.
The village is neat, tidy and growing.
We met Sailon and his family. Above,
David follows Sailon into his house to begin
works on solar panels.
A Swiss yachtie, Walter on Cinderella,
joins David for a generator repair session.
Folks queued up for the generator doctor.
A word about Bislama...
Since over 100 languages are spoken in Vanuatu and each island in Vanuatu has at least
one unique spoken language (Malekula has 23!!) which are not understood by
neighboring islands and/or villages, a common language of Bislama (Bichelama) or Pidgin
English developed. They speak it quickly and it's hard to follow, but we found reading it
off signs and posters and then saying it out loud helped the comprehension process.
Here's a sample:

Wanem nem blong yu?                                        What's your name?
Nem blong mi is...                                                My name is....
Yu save tok tok long Bislama?                              Do you speak Bislama?
Sore, be mi no save tumas Bislama.                      Sorry, I don't know much Bislama.
Please/Thank you (very much)                               Plis / Tangkiu (tumas)
See you later, goodbye                                         Lookim yu afta, tata
Bia blong yumi  (A Tusker beer advert)                Our beer  (see below)
Paradise Lodge Moorings -Aore Island, Santo -15S32.52 / 167E10.42 - Moored 122'
We anticipated a stop between Dixon
Reefs and Luganville, but the winds and
current were with us and we flew.When we
entered the Segond Channel, the water
was calm as a mill pond. Across from our
mooring was the "city" of Luganville and
Espiritu Santo Island.
Alan & Debra Profke own and operate
the Paradise Lodge. Aussies, they came
here 6 years ago on a diving vacation and
fell in love with the people and the place.
They have seven moorings and a beautiful
home. Alan is a physician and they
operate a medical clinic for the locals.
Alan & Debbie had just become an
Official SSCA Cruising Station and we
had the privilege of presenting them with
their SSCA burgee. This occasion
called for a champagne toast and dinner
at their home with Debbie and  Ivan,
their "crew" of f "Divine Wind".
A dinghy ride across the Segond
Channel and we were in
Luganville, Vanuatu's second
largest (and only other) city.
We weren't in Luganville long. There's not much
to see. All shops and services are along one
main road. The fresh market (above and right)
was good and LCM, the main supermarket,
had a good selection, so we stocked up.
From Luganville, we headed along Santo's
east coast past Million Dollar Point (above)
so named when the US Military deposited
all its unneeded equipment in the sea when
they departed at the end of WWII.
Once again, frisky spinner dolphins
accompanied us on our short passage north
to Peterson Bay.
Peterson Bay, Oyster Island, Santo - 15S22.35 / 167E11.40
Peterson Bay, tucked in behind an island and several reefs, is a hurricane hole. Entrance
is tricky between the reefs, but once in and solidly anchored, we felt very few effects of
the wind or sea and it was a perfect place to work on the boat. Besides being
well-protected, it offered another substantial bonus: the Oyster Island Resort. Oyster
Island offered free internet to cruisers. With our long range antenna, we were able to
have internet (albeit painstakingly slow) on the boat. Besides internet, Oyster Bay also
offered a nice restaurant, a bar with happy hour for cruisers, a beautiful, private 25
hectare island to explore with well marked footpaths throughout, reefs, snorkeling areas
and secluded beaches.

Between work days and projects, we managed to walk the paths and explore the
island. More exciting however, was the proximity of the Nalaiafu River and its blue hole.
Oyster Island Resort as seen from the
anchorage
A neat thatched "palapa" boat provided
transportation to the ferry dock on the other
side of the bay for resort patrons.
Colorful fruit dove
Hundreds of whiptail lizards scurried in the
underbrush after a morning shower
A vehicle bridge crosses the Nalaiafu
River. Traveling beneath it reinforced our
fear of traveling on it.
The thickly reefed entrance to the Nalaiafu
River gives way to a jungle-like setting and
leads to a fresh water blue hole.
Blue hole water is crystal clear,
spring-fed, fresh water. It gets its blue
hue from calcium carbonate deposits.
The water is clear and calm and reflects the
palm trees and vegetation above it. Colorful
tropical fish swim lazily below as we dinghy
its 3.5 km length.
We called this stretch "watercress alley".
Yup, that's watercress fringing the sides of
the river.
The watercress was so thick in some areas
and had overtaken the river that it fouled
the prop on the dinghy engine trying to get
through.
Tiny swiftlets dart back and
forth across the river
swooping down for insects.
A pair of little black cormorants seem to
dominate the water birds in the area.
Flora was as dominant as fauna. Above,
delicate palau flowers reflect in the water.
Showy seedpods seem to explode as they
float along the river waiting for a place to
take root.
We received an interesting request from Marcie's sister, Lin,
while we were anchored in Peterson Bay. It seems a
co-worker's 6th grade son has read "Flat Stanley", a
children's book by Jeff Brown,  in class and is doing a world
geography project based on it. Stanley is "flat" because he's
gotten smushed by a bulletin board and is now like a
proverbial pancake. He's fine otherwise, however, and can
obviously be flat-pack mailed to and from anywhere in the
world. The class is collecting info from as many places as
possible. Lin sent directions via email and asked if we'd
participate in the project. Why not? We remembered doing a
presentation to our nephew, Nicks', 4th grade class many
years ago. It was fun.

We had to do a short description about where she was
located, interesting info about the country or city, climate, etc.
I have her perched in the salon on a shelf just above the
settee and I found myself talking to her regularly. "Hey,
Natu...how's it going?".  She's quiet and doesn't eat much.

She left us in Luganville, when like Flat Stanley, she was
mailed to Marshfield, Massachusetts, USA to join her friends.
Google "Flat Stanley" to learn more about this character.
I printed and cut-out a gingerbread-shaped figure that Lin provided. I
could make the figure female or male so chose a girl and named her Natu
from Vanuatu. Then I had to color her dark brown, draw in her hair and
facial features and dress her like a paper doll...grass skirt and a colorful
fabric blouse.
We took Natu in the dinghy one morning
to Oyster Island for a photo shoot. She
was on the beach for one shot and sitting in
a palm tree for another. She even took a
turn at the helm.
Recommended reading:
To Kill a Bird With Two Stones - Jeremy
MacClancy - a good history of Vanuatu